• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

Tinken said:
In my conversations with Kelly, I promised that I too would try the no secondary butterfly mod for myself. Also, know that my engine is highly modified which allows more air to pass through than a stock engine would.

So, I removed the air box and the secondary butterfly. Attempted to start and my engine hesitated and then started. The engine runs fine throughout the power band, but when twisted fast, sputters, pops and dies. Any attempt to punch the throttle results in flame out.

Curious, Ty came over and asked what I was doing. Ty said that he did this mod to all his prototype 449/511 race bikes back in 2010, but could not get the mod to work due to the sudden in rush of air when you whack the throttle open. He says that it does not cure flame outs, though it will help with the dead throttle issue. The only thing that will cure a flame out is to add fuel to the sensitive lean areas of the map like the low rpms. Removing the secondary butterfly does not richen the mixture, in fact it leans it worse. It is designed to close when the throttle is whacked open so that the engine does not stall and then reopen as the air is richened. Sometimes it does not react fast enough and the engine stalls at low rpm on the rider.

There is no fuel accelerator pump on efi. I continued to attempt to tune with the HST, trying to get the mod to work, but no success. Ty said he ran TC throttle bodies on all his 449/511 race bikes, so, I removed my TE throttle body and installed the TC unit.

Still the same problem, although, not nearly as bad. There is a manual choke which is nice when trying to start the engine hot or cold. I am now able to idle the engine down to 1400 rpm from 2000, but idles at 2300 with the choke out. Finally, I added an accelerator pump programming to my Powercommander 5 and now no matter how hard I whack the throttle on, it runs strong. +10% fuel had to be added to keep the bike from flaming out. I have not loaded onto the dyno as of yet because it needs a little more tuning before I will be happy with it. I haven’t had a chance to take it for a spin yet due to a storm here, but I can tell you that the engine torques, trying to twist itself up from the kick stand.

The mod did not work for me. I could get the mod to work if I used the accelerator programing with a powercommander 5, but there was no way to make it not stall without a piggyback efi programmer. Ty and I plan to consult with Husqvarna to see if we have missed anything.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the detailed response on the modified bike.

As mentioned elsewhere by Motosportz, perhaps the Aus/Euro ecu fueling is different.
I have a hunch our maps are already richer that your 50 state legal ecu are(you may know already) & I don't have the free flow exhaust, head etc.


Interesting info, hanging to see the difference in torque in the lower end of the range when you get a dyno run in.
I do think, with the fuel added for the mod, you'll like the extra pull down low.
 
Mr Ford40 said:
Dangermouse449 did you have race map 3 on your bike before the butterfly mod etc
Click to expand...

I believe so, but this hasn't been confirmed yet.

The 1st time I wanted to get the dealer to recheck it they were away at a race. I asked last time I was home from work but they said their HST was 'down'.

Going from Tinken's info 2011 bikes may not be able to take the map & may be why mine has a different VIN no. sticker on it than my frame.
(It had work during warranty for flameouts but the problems persisted, it had slightly more power but flamed out & ran on as before)
 
Cheers thanks. It would be good to find out the difference and power delivery with the options put before us.
Race Map 3
Race Map 3 with the butterfly removal
Race map 3 with the butterfly removal and the arm from the manual throttle body removed

I wonder what the differences would be between all three. Now I wished I had tryied this process.:banghead: Because it's just the difference that I didnt try first makes me wonder.
 
When I was buying my 511, I asked Kurt at Slacks Creek about "BMW/Race map 3" and he said that "they" put a map in that is put together for Australia. Exactly what that means, I don't know for sure, but that being said it could be true what DM was saying about we have different mapping here to elsewhere.
 
Tinken: I added an accelerator pump programming to my Powercommander 5 and now no matter how hard I whack the throttle on, it runs strong.
Click to expand...

How is this done? I don't see any option for it on my PCV program.
 
It is in the tools menu. Plug it into your bike. Go to configure, there you find the accel pump feature.
I have had mine set from 5% to 10% it works. If you have trouble finding it, go to their website, excellent
Instruction there.
 
Does not make sense to me either, but I tried it while I was in there, and it does...I do have PCV, but I did
not change my settings, gonna have to get auto tune so I can see the AFR's, another strange thing is the cold
start is much better, and hot start is great if you wait one minute. I am puzzled, but it does pull better down
low. Not an engineer, just a wrench spinner?
 
Tinken said:
I don't see how someone can just remove the butterfly and have it work. Either you have to have a piggy back fuel module installed or you have to tweak your throttle position sensor forward to bypass the lean lower throttle %'s
Click to expand...

James Patton said:
Does not make sense to me either, but I tried it while I was in there, and it does...I do have PCV, but I did
not change my settings, gonna have to get auto tune so I can see the AFR's, another strange thing is the cold
start is much better, and hot start is great if you wait one minute. I am puzzled, but it does pull better down
low. Not an engineer, just a wrench spinner?
Click to expand...

As I posted, I have map3, JD, flow pipe. Removed BF for sure ran better, more power down low, more snap, more response. Super slight hesitation if I grabbed handful a gear high. Leaned mid slightly with JD and richened top slight, never ran so good ever. My bike runs absolutely perfect. Perfect response, power, off throttle, zero dead throttle issues so far. BF removal was for sure a noticeable improvement on my bike with my setup.
 
So my cold start was better also after butterfly removal...but then I cut off the arm and now it starts but still might flameout as the idle is low cold.

Solution is to give 2% throttle or so for maybe 10 seconds until it kind of warms up.

Before the mod even with PCV and race map, if you start it it would hit a few times then die...hit a few more times then cough and die. Adding throttle helped usually a bit.

Manual choke would be nice.
 
Tinken said:
I don't see how someone can just remove the butterfly and have it work. Either you have to have a piggy back fuel module installed or you have to tweak your throttle position sensor forward to bypass the lean lower throttle %'s
Click to expand...


In my original post, moving the TPS a hairs breadth(Like barely any) is one of the things I listed.
The post was for 3 mods at once.
 
Mr Ford40 said:
Cheers thanks. It would be good to find out the difference and power delivery with the options put before us.
Race Map 3
Race Map 3 with the butterfly removal
Race map 3 with the butterfly removal and the arm from the manual throttle body removed

I wonder what the differences would be between all three. Now I wished I had tryied this process.:banghead: Because it's just the difference that I didnt try first makes me wonder.
Click to expand...

You could always refit the butterfly & see. There are lots of older posts with bikes running perfectly well with just the Map3.

In the original post I said I tried these mods after having the dealer try the 'regular' fixes.
(At the time I was lead to believe it had the upgraded map installed - They didn't call it a name, just upgraded.... as soon as I can, I'll find out what that was)
 
Motosportz said:
Part of my motivation to remove it was the dead throttle issue. What I found was it runs a lot harder and more consistent with the BF removal which I really was not expecting. Win / win.
Click to expand...


The occasional dead throttle was part of the original motivator to try it in the first place, I figured I had nothing to loose & could put it back if it all went pair-shaped.
As you say, the bottom end increase was an unexpected & very welcome side effect.
 
Hey tinken,

I enabled the accel pump function adding 10% fuel over 50 rpm's with 4% throttle activation.

Now when blipping the throttle and letting off I get a very loud crackle/backfire. The auto tune AFR is hard to watch but stays from 13.2-14.xx I do see a peak of 15 but that is probably when the throttle plate snaps closed and the rpms drop. Is this a sign of too much fuel being added? OR too little at 0% at higher rpm? It does not crackle/pop without the AP function?
 
Tinken said:
It comes up as fail, but there was a work around for it that Ty's team created. I will remake that mod.
Click to expand...


I was thinking it might help hughisdaft who had damaged his TE set-up before reading this post.
He might be able to run with the flap out & wiring disconnected & not have to buy new parts....


​
Before I stumbled upon this thread I tryed and failed to bypas the fbw throttle and not give it any control by taking the motor/sensor of the fbw throttle and locking the butterfly into fully open position I am now faced with a fail reading on the dash and even when replacing the motor to the original position I get a tempromental fail on the dash every second start or so. From the way you speak of not being able to remove the fbw sensor motor im guessing you have tryed and failed like myself, If so how did you replace the idle sensor regulator corectly ?​
 
Tinken said:
There is no secondary butter fly stepper motor or position sensor on the TC tbi. Therefore there is a FAIL on the speedo. There is a plug work around for the fail.
Click to expand...


Yes, understood.
If TE body had/has a u/s stepper motor or sensor it could be disconnected & use the same work around setup as for TC, rather than buy a newTE body....
 
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