• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2012 WR300 opinions? Converting from TE510 maybe...

Eaglefreek said:
I need to do something with my rear brake lever also. I really have a hard time when I stand since you have to turn your foot in so far to hit the pedal. Is there an aftermarket solution?
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just heat it up & bend it straight or put in a press-heaps better. i hated havin to go all pidgeon toed to get at it!
 
huskydude59 said:
Neesmo, I had a 2010 model. Great bike apart from some small issues that turn to be major ones for me, i hope you have better luck. 1.. the kill switch died, it seems they have an issue, if you find it hard to start for what ever reason this could be the culprit. I took it back and they just ran an A/M one all good.. 2.. The biggest issue i found was getting the forks to do there thing. I ended up changing to 0.48 forks springs. This help to some degree, but the biggest problem was figuring out the rebound setting. Be cautious here, it feels like it is the compression but it aint.. The KYB on my bike seemed to like a faster rebound setting. Fork oil height greatly affected the feel of the front. Start on the low side and work you way up at around 10ml at a time. All in all I found the 300 a charging ball biter to ride. It can even run upto a 15th front no problems. I did around 4000klms on a std piston and rings. I sold it still on std. No piston rattle, a little down on comp.. They really do need to go to a button.. I am not sure on how much more Husky can squeeze out of this model.
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+1 on the killswitch, same happened to me & after draining tank, cleaning carby, changing plugs, checking air filter etc turned out to be the bloody killswitch. run an aftermarket one, switchblock is big & bulky crap item. did same ks on my first top end. same story compression was down a little, rings were ok, piston scored on exhaust side from sucking in some dirt/water(drowned a couple of times! :)) but reasonably good still. 14/48 bit more top speed & spreads gears a little further but makes first gear singletrack a little harder. im gonna try 14/50 or 13/46 and see how that goes. didnt like stock 13/48. yep time for a revamp but optional e-start
 
I have asked around - so far i dont think so. I have bent mine out a bit, but still need it out another 4-5mm to be comfortable. Would be nice to get a hammerhead or something like that for the WR300's.
 
huskydude59 said:
Neesmo, I had a 2010 model. Great bike apart from some small issues that turn to be major ones for me, i hope you have better luck. 1.. the kill switch died, it seems they have an issue, if you find it hard to start for what ever reason this could be the culprit. I took it back and they just ran an A/M one all good.. 2.. The biggest issue i found was getting the forks to do there thing. I ended up changing to 0.48 forks springs. This help to some degree, but the biggest problem was figuring out the rebound setting. Be cautious here, it feels like it is the compression but it aint.. The KYB on my bike seemed to like a faster rebound setting. Fork oil height greatly affected the feel of the front. Start on the low side and work you way up at around 10ml at a time. All in all I found the 300 a charging ball biter to ride. It can even run upto a 15th front no problems. I did around 4000klms on a std piston and rings. I sold it still on std. No piston rattle, a little down on comp.. They really do need to go to a button.. I am not sure on how much more Husky can squeeze out of this model.
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Before you spend any money on the forks, take them completely apart and clean the assembly goo out that's clogging the valving. Made a world of difference on mine.
 
Rob578 said:
Before you spend any money on the forks, take them completely apart and clean the assembly goo out that's clogging the valving. Made a world of difference on mine.
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Yes I did that.. I found the oil level to give a false feel. Because the manual tells you really nothing about the oil level range. It left me in the dark about what to do, so I use old setting from my marzocchi forks. Funny enough I got pretty close to good balance. I guess at the and of my experience I was all worn out from trying. Sitting back now looking over my experience I would buy another one tomorrow solely because they do a very good job at keeping a rider safe at speed. I don't think I have ever have ridden a bike that can feed such confidence when you are on the dangerous side of things. Every one who rode my bike..one I got the bugs out said "why is it my bike feel so good to ride". The answer is a simple one... refinement. If they would just put a button down there some where I would sell my misses for one...
 
Neesmo31 said:
300 reasons to go for a ride this weekend :) Wonder how she goes..... just have to jet it now, removed the stupid standard ADR pipe, and need to take off the carby blocking plate and throttle stop. I have put my flexxbars on it and also my -5mm husky billet pegs already.
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my stupid dealer de-restricted my WR300&put new jetting in except they left the carby blocking plate in&it ran like shit.when i told the service manager about it he blamed it on a new mechanic.
 
shawbagga said:
+1 on the killswitch, same happened to me & after draining tank, cleaning carby, changing plugs, checking air filter etc turned out to be the bloody killswitch. run an aftermarket one, switchblock is big & bulky crap item. did same ks on my first top end. same story compression was down a little, rings were ok, piston scored on exhaust side from sucking in some dirt/water(drowned a couple of times! :)) but reasonably good still. 14/48 bit more top speed & spreads gears a little further but makes first gear singletrack a little harder. im gonna try 14/50 or 13/46 and see how that goes. didnt like stock 13/48. yep time for a revamp but optional e-start
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were the score marks on the rhs of piston?
 
shawbagga said:
not 100% sure mate. still got the piston somewhere in the garage, ill have a captain cook! any reason why?
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my 2012 WR 300 seized & the barrel cracked on RH side between the exhaust port & sub port pushing piston into the LH side of barrel & i was interested if you had similar prob.am considering a 250 top end or 360 engine after the 3 top end failures.
 
IMO the gay needle is dangerously lean at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. even at position 4 or 5. JD Jetting kit is a must. IMO
 
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