• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2013 TE310r Electric start issues

Boogie said:
Mine is similar. Please update if you find a solution.
Click to expand...

Here's what my old starter gear looks like....I've got less than 150 start cycles on this gear and it's very worn. The worm gear shows no wear at all, which tells me that there was a hardening process issue with this batch of gears.

worn starter gear.JPG

worn starter gear_cr.jpg
 
Much Better! :)

Gears are in, e-starter sounds real smooth and eager to turn over. If these new "updated" gears last then I think I'll be OK. Next I need to test it hot on the trail, but but definitely has a much smoother tone upon button push. Something you gotta watch for during reassembly is the gasket has a small oil passage hole that must be lined up when you slide the starter back in, otherwise your starter's gonna dry up. Thanks to cafe member Rich Little for helping me thru the ring gear exchange!

Hstarter.JPG
 
would you go into the ring gear change and the process a little. I'm getting ready to do the same thing. Just ordered the updated set along with some other stuff any special tools other then fly wheel puller.

cheers

Joe
 
need2boat said:
would you go into the ring gear change and the process a little. I'm getting ready to do the same thing. Just ordered the updated set along with some other stuff any special tools other then fly wheel puller.

cheers

Joe
Click to expand...


Yes, you'll also need a flywheel holder from Zipty when you use the flywheel puller, around $45.
On the 2013 models, looks like the factory used retaining compound on the mating surface of the flywheel and crank. I needed to use some heat to get the flywheel puller to release, and have a small pipe ready to use as a breaker bar with the flywheel puller tee-handle.
It's possible on the 2012 models the factory used no retaining compound.
Once the flywheel is off, remove the woodruff key and use some grinding compound on the mating surfaces to roughen up the shine, so the Loctite will stick better. Just a few spins are all you need, because it's fairly aggressive. Clean everything up and simply swap the gears.
Use Loctite 648 retaining compound upon reassembly and work quick so the Loctite doesn't set before torquing the nut to 80 NM.
The worm gear shaft in the starter is changed also and instructions are in the .pdf workshop manual for your bike.
That's all I can think of for now...oh, pulling the LH ignition cover off requires a firm pull to break the magnetic field.
 
air rider thanks for the info. would you still need the flywheel holder if you had used an impact gun to remove? I guess it aids in torx it back down as well.

Per the 2014? One would like to think they had used up all the old parts by the time they made the 2114 bikes but from what I've read about the hot starts and xiite starters. You can have similar issues but the cause is not always the same.

Joe
 
need2boat said:
air rider thanks for the info. would you still need the flywheel holder if you had used an impact gun to remove?
Click to expand...

Rumor says that using an impact gun to tighten may shear the undersized woodruff key. You'd be twisting the crankshaft within the flywheel while impacting. Makes sense, why risk it? Do a search for the topic. I borrowed a members' flywheel holder and service.
 
yea I wasn't thinking of using it for putting it on rather they can be great for breaking the bond when taken things apart. Most of the fear behind them is due to lack of experience. They have there place for sure.
 
need2boat said:
air rider thanks for the info. would you still need the flywheel holder if you had used an impact gun to remove?
Click to expand...
Oh! Keyword here is to "remove"...I missed that. No problem with removing with impact gun, that's what we did without holder.
 
airrider said:
Yes, you'll also need a flywheel holder from Zipty when you use the flywheel puller, around $45.
On the 2013 models, looks like the factory used retaining compound on the mating surface of the flywheel and crank. I needed to use some heat to get the flywheel puller to release, and have a small pipe ready to use as a breaker bar with the flywheel puller tee-handle.
It's possible on the 2012 models the factory used no retaining compound.
Once the flywheel is off, remove the woodruff key and use some grinding compound on the mating surfaces to roughen up the shine, so the Loctite will stick better. Just a few spins are all you need, because it's fairly aggressive. Clean everything up and simply swap the gears.
Use Loctite 648 retaining compound upon reassembly and work quick so the Loctite doesn't set before torquing the nut to 80 NM.
The worm gear shaft in the starter is changed also and instructions are in the .pdf workshop manual for your bike.
That's all I can think of for now...oh, pulling the LH ignition cover off requires a firm pull to break the magnetic field.
Click to expand...


The loctite we used was 609....hi temp retaining compound for press fits
 
I took the bike for a 45 mile beatin' on the trails and she was better than ever. I also swapped bikes with another rider and he said the husky had more power than he expected.
 
I will put 609 on the list. I'm in Jersey as well can ask where you picked up 609? that's not common. I know fastenal can get it.

Joe
 
Joe,

Pretty sure they're still in business. Can't quite remember their name..."something brothers" in Maple Shade, CLOSE to your house. A machine shop supply store, guarantee they'll have the locktite you're looking for. I used to go there all the time, great selection of high quality stuff for machinists. They are right on Main St.

Phil
 
yea right near the church. Ogle brothers or something like that. I though they sell grinding stones and other sanding supplies. I've bought sanding wheels for when I ported a head on my Alfa. That was back in the 90's

Fastenal will have it for sure.

Joe
 
AllDay said:
@airrider: how it works husky after few months? Any issues with starter?
Click to expand...

Still working great!...better than new. Whether it's cold or hot, it's always there. I can even start hot in first gear with clutch pulled in. I've got about 1400 dirt miles on it now. Using the shorai battery.
 
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