• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

74 400 Cross Engine Assembly Help?

Uh... No. I can see that might cause a problem if I had the seal installed but Since I don't yet have the seal inside the flange I'm thinking it won't make a difference. You think I should remove it first?
 
Crashaholic said:
From this view the space between the left side of the crank and the case is definitely to big so there is either something keeping the crank stub from sliding into the bearing or the seal is getting held up at seal journal. Wonder whats keeping the right side from sliding on?

husky10-jpg.104474
Click to expand...
 
Crash, I'm not sure what you mean by 'Seal getting held up at the seal journal.' I installed the seal flush with the inside of the case.
 
bul_racer said:
Crash, I'm not sure what you mean by 'Seal getting held up at the seal journal.' I installed the seal flush with the inside of the case.
Click to expand...

I was referring to the hub on the crankshaft that the seal rides on. Its has a larger OD than the stub shaft where the bearing rides. Seeing that its bigger I thought the seal could be stopping the crank from sliding on all the way if the seal was a millimeter smaller. Just a guess at this point. :rolleyes:
 
bul_racer said:
Uh... No. I can see that might cause a problem if I had the seal installed but Since I don't yet have the seal inside the flange I'm thinking it won't make a difference. You think I should remove it first?
Click to expand...

The collar in the photo will prevent the cases from going together. It slides on the shaft after the cases are together. Also you may want to install the seal before assembling the cases in order to save from having to remove the seal retainer and then reinstall it after assembly. Its best to install the seal without the shaft present.
 

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Crashaholic said:
I was referring to the hub on the crankshaft that the seal rides on. Its has a larger OD than the stub shaft where the bearing rides. Seeing that its bigger I thought the seal could be stopping the crank from sliding on all the way if the seal was a millimeter smaller. Just a guess at this point. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Gosh, I hope not. Guess I'll find out when I pull the crank back out to check it. If the seal doesn't appear mashed I'll assume that's not happening.
 
Crashaholic said:
The collar in the photo will prevent the cases from going together. It slides on the shaft after the cases are together. Also you may want to install the seal before assembling the cases in order to save from having to remove the seal retainer and then reinstall it after assembly. Its best to install the seal without the shaft present.
Click to expand...

OK, I don't have a problem taking the collar off until after the cases are together. Whatever I can do to make this work...
 
Also, referring to the pic in my post #25, the gear on top of the clutch shaft is suppose to be level with the gear on top of the countershaft. Is there something underneath it thats keeping it from sitting level with the countershaft gear?
 

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bul_racer said:
Hey Marty,

I think you must mean the right side case since my pictures have the crank & trans in the left side.

Yes, good eye! I did have a small chip in the right side case. Guess I can try to polish it and maybe clean up the receiving hole.
Click to expand...

Yep, that is what I meant to say. Right side. Sorry.

Marty
 
Crashaholic said:
Also, referring to the pic in my post #25, the gear on top of the clutch shaft is suppose to be level with the gear on top of the countershaft. Is there something underneath it thats keeping it from sitting level with the countershaft gear?
Click to expand...

Not sure why it looks to be setting above but I just checked it and this is OK.
 
bul_racer said:
Gosh, I hope not. Guess I'll find out when I pull the crank back out to check it. If the seal doesn't appear mashed I'll assume that's not happening.
Click to expand...

Pulled crank from left case & examined the seal there. Do not see any damage. Manual shows the edge as flush with inside of the case so assuming the seal is not causing any interference to prevent crank from going into position.
 
Crashaholic said:
Also, referring to the pic in my post #25, the gear on top of the clutch shaft is suppose to be level with the gear on top of the countershaft. Is there something underneath it thats keeping it from sitting level with the countershaft gear?
Click to expand...

You got good eyes crash!!:p
Is l the left seal pointing out board?:thumbsup:
 
DeathFromAbove said:
The gear and spline should be flat.
Click to expand...
thr

They are flat. Can't take a picture of it now bc I taped up the transmission so the crank could be removed without having gears falling all over the place. Question: How'd you get those gears so sparkling clean? I cleaned mine pretty good but your stuff looks new.
 
Here's the picture of the flat gear/spline:

HuskyGears.jpg

Was concerned that all this torquing might affect crank truing so I removed it and put it on my home made truing jig to check. All was OK though.

Truing Jig.jpg

I put the crank back into the left case, then the right. When I got it all cranked down pretty good I noticed that it still was not drawing the cases together enough to remove the gap, esp. in the front. Decided to check the manual for the length of the 2 Allen screws that come from the left side & found that I'd been using 50mm screws where it calls for 40mm. Switched those out and, behold! Problem eliminated!

However, I am still concerned about the space between the crank wheels and cases. This time instead of too much space I am concerned that it might be too little. I think it was Crash that said it should be 2mm, which amounts to about .0079 inch. I'm getting only about .0020 on the ignition side and about .0045 on the clutch side. My first thought was to put the case puller back on and crank it carefully until it moves to the desired spec but then I realized that wouldn't work because it would just split the cases. The crank does spin freely and I do not hear any rubbing on the cases.

What do you think? Do I have a problem here? If so, suggestions please for correcting it...

Husky Crank.jpg
 
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