As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Anybody know if I can safely use my NoToil oil or cleaner for a UNI filter? I read somewhere about differences between manufacturers causing glue to delaminate or foam to disintegrate. Thanks in advance!
I did a google search and found some info from the NoToil manufacturer who suggests that their oil will affect the glue in Uni Filters. However, this advice is a bit confusing, because there is a UNI Filter in the USA and a UNI Filter in Australia, and the TR650 UniFilter comes from UniFilter Australia (completely different company). Might be worth contacting the people at NoTOil and asking, but I think it was only an issue with the USA made Uni filters.
I don't see how anyone knows how these filters are sealing once installed without using a bore-scope type inspection camera.
It's the face that makes the critical seal & no one can see it once in place.
If these replacement filters have a slightly different OD or the rubber/foam frame has a different thickness or it is not as pliable - you're likely to have a gap once installed.
As pointed out already there's no flange for the top side of the filter to press against inside the air box, this is the area that's most vulnerable to leak.
If nothing else you pioneers will want to check for dust getting around these filters after dirt rides - please let the rest of us know how it goes.
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On the subject of improving the airbox & without looking in it again, I'm wondering if it's possible or practical to...
1) Cut off the plastic frame that the filter sits in & throw it away, keeping only the plastic panel as a cover plate.
2) Make & install a top face flange (that's currently non-existing), maybe use small, like 1/16" thick, aluminum angle.
3) Make & install back flanges.
4) Slide the filter in place between the flanges, now we can visually ensure a snug fit before installing the cover plate.