• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Any sightings yet?

I've never checked valve clearance before either. So I'm going to need some instructions. :D

With 15,000 mile valve clearance intervals on a sportbike, I've never actually kept one long enough to need to do it. I've come close, though!
 
Here is the official break-in procedure, according to the owner's manual:

- warm up the engine by running at low revs before us-
ing the motorcycle;
- avoid quick starts and never rev up the engine when in
low gear;
- ride at low speed until the engine is warmed up;
- apply both brakes several times to settle the pads and
the discs;
- do not maintain the same speed for a long time;
- do not ride for a long time without stopping;
- NEVER drive downhill with GEARBOX IN NEUTRAL, but
shift into gear to brake with the engine if necessary,
thus preventing the fast wear of the brake pads.
Click to expand...
 
Haha!

All of the wrench sizes in the English part of the manual have been converted to inches.

1.06 in Allen wrench
0.39 in wrench
0.47 in of slack in the chain
etc.
 
How far are you guys getting out of a tank of fuel? and did you get a rack with your bike like the 610 used to come with?
 
I don't have the bike yet, so I can't tell you what kind of MPG I'm getting.

It doesn't come with a rack that I know of.

As far as luggage is concerned, I think I'm going with the Giant Loop MoJavi for now. But first, I need to get some stuff to put in it. :)
 
Got one. Problem is that my 644CCM has done about 40.000 miles and so thought there was a need for a new bike. So I might be just a bit prejudiced. Suppose I´ll get used to the Husky soon (done about 60 miles). It seems heavier and less agile. And definitely asthmatic but have ordered the Arrow pipes. Don´t really like the white plastic bits or the zorst heat shield. If they don´t come up with carbon bits soon, I´ll charge them for the burn holes on my pants & legs. Snd the side stand is a constant source of aggro.
 
organ donor;103910 said:
Got one. Problem is that my 644CCM has done about 40.000 miles and so thought there was a need for a new bike. So I might be just a bit prejudiced. Suppose I´ll get used to the Husky soon (done about 60 miles). It seems heavier and less agile. And definitely asthmatic but have ordered the Arrow pipes. Don´t really like the white plastic bits or the zorst heat shield. If they don´t come up with carbon bits soon, I´ll charge them for the burn holes on my pants & legs. Snd the side stand is a constant source of aggro.
Click to expand...

Firstly if you want to make it more agile then why would you go putting 2 exhausts back on? Go to 1 and save weight.
So have you had the suspension set for your weight yet or are you just running the factory settings? The biggest improvement you can make on any bike is getting this right. Have you set the static and race sag? Cosmetically I have never owned a bike and left it in standard trim.
Has the bike been de-restricted or are you running factory restrictions?:excuseme:

I will post a full description of what modifications need to be done to de-restrict the 630 to gain its full potential in the next few weeks. Like the 610's, when the bike is delivered it gets the stock and go fast bits. I think I still have my restricted inlet manifold from when I bought my 610.:lol:

You cant just change the jets obviously being efi but a good bike dyno shop will remap your computer in about 4 hours if you dont have access to a race tune.:thumbsup:

More and more we will see future bikes become worse and worse in factory setup. Its due to the ridiculous emission restrictions they put on motorcycles. They only have 1 cyclinder for F**K sake. This will mean you can expect to spend 1 or 3 grand on your bike to get it how you want it. :eek:

Gone are the days of just jumping on a bike and being happy with its performance straight out of the factory.:banghead:

Stu
 
a. Don´t want to restrict the zorst by chopping off one of them (and think it looks a bit amputated with only one). Have seen plenty of bikes adapted from one to two zorsts for better aspiration.
b. Deffo ... won´t leave it standard. Realized that from the outset. That´d be boring.
c. I know that I´ll automatically lose the guarantee but the cat´s coming out as soon as I can get hold of the correct resistor and plug.
d. Hope that someone´ll start selling carbon bits for the 630 soon.

Apart from all that, most of the gripe´s due to the many years bonding with the ccm.

Apart from that, the dealer thinks I might have to send it back. There´s a nasty whine coming from the clutch when reducing power.

So ... never sell your old bike. It´ll probably be better than anything you can buy new and (over here) as long as it stays registered, it´s legal and you can belt out CO2as much as you want.
 
http://picasaweb.google.com/jesse.temple/HuskyTE630#

Here are a bunch of pics of mine. It delivered yesterday. I've already managed to wander down some unknown gravel roads and get soaked in a thunderstorm on the first night. It was a blast!

The kickstand contacts the swingarm when it flips up. If you look through the pics, you can see the nasty mark it has made. It was there even on the pallet coming off of the truck, so I didn't do it.

Hall's was apologetic and they are looking at a solution on the bike they still have in stock. I stopped him from offering to repair mine, as it's just a scratch, and there are probably plenty more of those to come. To keep it from getting worse, I took the kickstand off, removed the auto-retract nub, and ground off part of the kickstand foot. That gives it about 1/8" clearance from the swingarm as it travels through its arc. There is quite a bit of slop in the kickstand pivot, so I've also put a thin washer between the kickstand and frame at the pivot point in order to tighten it up some.

I have also taken off the passenger pegs, charcoal canister, and mirrors (they aren't required in my state). I might get a little mountain bike mirror or something to put on. I have used those with great success on past bikes, and they're only about $12 a piece.

If anyone knows of a stubby little convex round mirror that will either bolt onto the bars, or even fit into the stock mirror holes, that would be awesome.
 
icebergstu;103914 said:
Firstly if you want to make it more agile then why would you go putting 2 exhausts back on? Go to 1 and save weight.
So have you had the suspension set for your weight yet or are you just running the factory settings? The biggest improvement you can make on any bike is getting this right. Have you set the static and race sag? Cosmetically I have never owned a bike and left it in standard trim.
Has the bike been de-restricted or are you running factory restrictions?:excuseme:

I will post a full description of what modifications need to be done to de-restrict the 630 to gain its full potential in the next few weeks. Like the 610's, when the bike is delivered it gets the stock and go fast bits. I think I still have my restricted inlet manifold from when I bought my 610.:lol:

You cant just change the jets obviously being efi but a good bike dyno shop will remap your computer in about 4 hours if you dont have access to a race tune.:thumbsup:

More and more we will see future bikes become worse and worse in factory setup. Its due to the ridiculous emission restrictions they put on motorcycles. They only have 1 cyclinder for F**K sake. This will mean you can expect to spend 1 or 3 grand on your bike to get it how you want it. :eek:

Gone are the days of just jumping on a bike and being happy with its performance straight out of the factory.:banghead:

Stu
Click to expand...

Maybe in the future.. But it only took me about $400. to power up my 610... That and the other biggest change was racking up the 2- 3,000 miles it took to really loosen it up, as Huskies are generally very tight when new.. I just went to a 14T CS from a 15T and now my 4th gear wheeleies have become 5th gear wheelies.. I'm more than happy with the power and performance of my 610 and it's FI, hopefully the 630 wil be even better.. :D
 
icebergstu;103914 said:
You cant just change the jets obviously being efi but a good bike dyno shop will remap your computer in about 4 hours if you dont have access to a race tune.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Don't they need the iBeat? Unless someone puts an aftermarket item on the bike such as a power commander, I'm not sure how else a shop could tune it. :confused:
 
jtemple;104006 said:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jesse.temple/HuskyTE630#

Here are a bunch of pics of mine. It delivered yesterday. I've already managed to wander down some unknown gravel roads and get soaked in a thunderstorm on the first night. It was a blast!
Click to expand...

Awesome!

Was the person in the yellow shirt the delivery guy? Was that medieval torture looking device that the bike was strapped to his or the dealers? It looks a bit expensive.
 
jtemple;104006 said:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jesse.temple/HuskyTE630#

Here are a bunch of pics of mine. It delivered yesterday. I've already managed to wander down some unknown gravel roads and get soaked in a thunderstorm on the first night. It was a blast!

The kickstand contacts the swingarm when it flips up. If you look through the pics, you can see the nasty mark it has made. It was there even on the pallet coming off of the truck, so I didn't do it.

Hall's was apologetic and they are looking at a solution on the bike they still have in stock. I stopped him from offering to repair mine, as it's just a scratch, and there are probably plenty more of those to come. To keep it from getting worse, I took the kickstand off, removed the auto-retract nub, and ground off part of the kickstand foot. That gives it about 1/8" clearance from the swingarm as it travels through its arc. There is quite a bit of slop in the kickstand pivot, so I've also put a thin washer between the kickstand and frame at the pivot point in order to tighten it up some.

I have also taken off the passenger pegs, charcoal canister, and mirrors (they aren't required in my state). I might get a little mountain bike mirror or something to put on. I have used those with great success on past bikes, and they're only about $12 a piece.

If anyone knows of a stubby little convex round mirror that will either bolt onto the bars, or even fit into the stock mirror holes, that would be awesome.
Click to expand...


Where´d he get the skidplate? Husqvarna´s central agency here tell me that they aren´t yet available.
 
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