• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

anyone have clutch drag issues

Coffee;17309 said:
Don't do that - the oil check screw is too low from the factory, it needs about 200cc more than the oil check screw level.
Click to expand...

And, dont ever undo that oil inspection screw unless you have about 2days until your next ride...its well known to strip off and make it impossible to seal again. I did mine just before ride once.

really research and check this out before you just go and undo that oil inspection screw.
 
linkandcuff;17361 said:
i took it for like a 5 mile ride when i got the bike and was too excited to pay attention if the clutch was dragging or not and then changed the oil and took it for its first ride...it has around 2k on it
Click to expand...

Good input :thumbsup:

linkandcuff;17294 said:
there is no way to push it in gear.....it seems like the hotter is gets the more the drag is....when shifting gears i have to really focus on my gear change to make sure it happens since i have to put some pressure on the shift..nothing crazy and i can shift it everytime but nothing like other bikes i;ve had.....neutral is VERY hard to find on idle but usually can get neutral with a quick rev....i can feel the bike want to move foward while in gear.....i can start it in gear with the E-start but u can still it would rather be started in neutral...i have never changed the clutch fluid yet...maybe the owner before has i dont know...i got about 50miles on the bike since i bought it...no noise difference for the most part weather in gear or not
Click to expand...

linkandcuff;17267 said:
i use the Rotella synthetic is 5w-40 in the blue jug oil.....maybe i should change oil?...seems like its s popular oil for the huskys on the TT forum
Click to expand...

I just switched from Motorex semi-synthetic to Rotella non-synthetic, both 15-40W.... and noticed a significant "clunkiness" to the shifting. It is extremely difficult to switch gears especially when cold and while I can push it in gear with the clutch pulled in when off - it is not easy.

That's all I know, but if it were me I'd change the oil before tearing it apart - or maybe take it to a dealer, or find someone familiar with the Husqvarna bikes to see if it is abnormal.
 
after lowering to oil to the seep hole it seems to no drag as much...i'm going to ride it pretty hard tomorrow and i'll let u know how it goes
 
linkandcuff;17170 said:
i have an 06 te 510 and have a slight clutch drag....i ordered a FBF billet basket and some plates to try to see if that helps but just wanted to see if anyone else ran into the clutch drag problem
Click to expand...

Looks like a common problem.

Ok, so what is the bomb proof/final fix for this? Mine has had serious trouble finding neutral, and serious clutch drag issues, can't push the bike around sometimes, clutch in and starter really has to work hard to start the bike.

How can I fix this so that it never happens again?

I have just installed the uptite x ring as a preventative measure...still trying to bleed the clutch to test it, can't seem to get it to bleed, even with the KTM magura kit. I have made a great mess of clutch fluid on the floor of the garage:) I'll try some more this weekend.

Bike only has 2500miles or so.

2007 te510.

Appreciative of any help.

Cheers
 
i was thinking about changing the clutch fluid too and updating to x-ring while i'm at it...i never changed clutch fluid before...anyone know where to find a write up on it to do it right
 
so i took it to the local lake where they have a nice plowed drag strip....and the clutch is way better now that the oil is lowered to the oil seek bolt......i got a to race a few sleds too!!...i think they have it set up so u race around 400-500 ft....i beat everything but a thundercat 1000 and he only got me about 4-8 ft at the finish line
 
Both my previous WR250 and my current WR125 (which I bought new) have clutch drag and shifting issues.

In addition to clutch drag some oils make the shifting hard and I hit neutral too often and even find "neutral" between other gears.

I have to run either Amsiol 0-40 or Mobile1 0-40 for best results. ATF solved the clutch drag but I got false neutrals. Rotella (non -syn) has drag and makes shifting hard. Even with the expensive synthetic oils I can't go over 2 rides or false neutrals come back.

I really don't like the Husky transmission compared to the Honda I used to have but I guess all bikes have their little quirks.
 
the bikes it the cold garage but i'll take a pic of my rear tire setup...i must have atleast 500 studs in just the rear tire alone....its awesome how much traction u get...maybe i can get some actions shots tomorrow of my traction...i bring the front wheel up at 30+ mph and go threw a couple of gears in a wheelie with no worries of traction...i love it
i might try a different oil after i need a oil change...maybe amsiol....i have a billet clutch basket on the way which seems to solve other peoples clutch drag issues and i'll post how that goes once its installed
 
Pete;17208 said:
We have a te50 08 and its impossible to find neutral or start in gear. It feels like in the old days the clutch cable has stretched. With clutch in bike in 1st and idling it moves the bike forward.

I was thinking this would be caused by the seal in the slave cylinder, so the shaft didn't engage the clutch enough.

Could it be something else?
Click to expand...

Changed the oil, its had some green (coolant coloured) oil that was too old...replaced with 10/40 semi synthetic silikone brand oil and the clutch problem was %100 fixed for 20min and now its back to 'normal'. Cant find neutral and drags badly.
 
so i road the bike hard all day yesterday on the lake and the clutch drag is way better...i can shift in a wheelie from 2nd to 5th without touching the clutch lever almost like a honda...very happy with it now..

i took some pics of my studded tire setup i'll try to post them tonight for u guys
 
Norcalslowpoke;17728 said:
Looks like a common problem.

Ok, so what is the bomb proof/final fix for this? Mine has had serious trouble finding neutral, and serious clutch drag issues, can't push the bike around sometimes, clutch in and starter really has to work hard to start the bike.

How can I fix this so that it never happens again?

I have just installed the uptite x ring as a preventative measure...still trying to bleed the clutch to test it, can't seem to get it to bleed, even with the KTM magura kit. I have made a great mess of clutch fluid on the floor of the garage:) I'll try some more this weekend.

Bike only has 2500miles or so.

2007 te510.

Appreciative of any help.

Cheers
Click to expand...


Ok, got the clutch bled, installed uptite x ring. Clutch action is more positive with the ring. But...still hard to find neutral and some clutch drag issues. Anyone think I just need new clutch plates?

Cheers
 
if u take the plates out and up them on a nice piece of glass u should have no gaps...i dont know if u can buy the plates separate and i think the whole clutch is $170
 
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Hi mate I have an 09 te 310 that has done about 1800km and has exactly the same problem as yours so I can sympathise with you.My 310 when started on a stand will drive the rear wheel to the point where I carnt stop the wheel spinning. I have tried bleeding the clutch no good. I have replaced the clutch slave cylinder piston to no avail.my basket has no grooves in it so no problem there Another thread suggested buy a aftermarket oversize magura clutch master cylinder www.enduroeng.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=800001DE-1177528269 . That is the direction I am starting to think may be the best. The only other thing I can suggest is check to see if any of your plates are warped by putting them on a sheet of glass to see if they are flat. will keep researching .
 
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