• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

anyone have clutch drag issues

I bought the uptite slave piston and x ring and did not fix problem. I adjusted the little red adjusting screw on the clutch master cylinder as far out as possible as I felt there was not enough fluid travel to completely disengage clutch and this removed all clutch drag with the only downfall being the clutch lever is a fair way out from the handlebar. At least no drag in any gear. One other thing too check is my clutch fluid cable had a small hole in it from frame rub and was causing the system too lose fluid and take in air which didnt help clutch either. Am waiting on new cable. will keep informed
 
Coffee said:
Don't do that - the oil check screw is too low from the factory, it needs about 200cc more than the oil check screw level.
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This is a big shock!
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What is the background behind the oil check screw hole being too low?
 
Runner said:
This is a big shock! :eek: What is the background behind the oil check screw hole being too low?
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At some point circa 2004-2006 the screw should have been made higher, but was not.

If there is too much oil it comes out of the oil vent line and into the carb - and it looks like a 2 st running. If there is not enough or if it is dirty then the shifting gets notchy and difficult.. at least that is how it works for my bike.
 
I have since my last post put a new magura master cylinder piston and seal kit after finding a torn seal on the piston and this has completely fixed my clutch issues.
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The clutch is composed by friction discs and steel discs, intercalated. When using it hard, it is overheating, and steel discs can easily be deformed, so that when you take action clutch, no longer creates empty spaces between friction plates and steel plates, remaining in contact with each other.
So the solution is replacing steel discs with new ones.
This solution worked for me but both on Husaberg 450 and Husqvarna 310.
 
My 05 WR250 has the same - when cold the drag is so bad I have to hold the brakes on when I put it in gear - even then sometimes it will then clunk to a stall. Once heated up it's fine - bit clunky neutral to first but acceptable. so.....
wear grooves in the basket or buckled plates seems to be the answer based on posts to date. What does anyone else reckon - don't want to spend out on new plates if a simple file job will do. Always use good quality fully synth oil / changed regularly. All suggestions wellcome / ta
 
aussie rider said:
my woes have continued tho not with the clutch but the motor having blown a main bearing at 2500km. It never ends!:banghead:
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thats funny my main rod bearing went too...i've since rebuilt the engine but still have clutch drag issues...i'm ordering a new clutch kit today...if it still drags after this then oh well
 
Unless the new 449 machines shift easy, I'm not sure if any Husky has had a smooth shifting transmission when compared to other machines... It takes sort of a ~soccer kick to get mine into the next higher gear ...
 
well i fixed it. Put a complete new clutch and push rod in. It was the push rod. Even though the old one looked mint it was actually a hair short from wear at the end of it. Now i can put it in gear and it doesnt go anywhere until i say so:)
I want to say thanks to Dan from MotoXotica. They make it so damn easy when it comes to ordering parts and helpful advise. I really think i would have sold the husky if they werent around.
Thanks!
 
I thought I would chime in here and let people know the 449/511 have little to no clutch drag for some reason.
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My new 511 exhibits clutch drag. It isn't so bad the bike tries to roll forward while the clutch is disengaged but it is enough that it makes selecting neutral when the bike is not moving, nearly impossible. I also get a good clunk when putting the stationry bike into gear.
 
I also replaced my clutch rod on my '04 a while back and no more drag. They can get worn on the ends over time.
 
My clutch drag is getting unacceptable ... I had to change out the slave oRing today ...This again fixed the soft \ fading clutch issue but now the bike still wants to pull some with the clutch lever pulled in to the bar ..

Can the HYDO clutch models have the worn clutch rod issue as mentioned above?
 
ray_ray said:
My clutch drag is getting unacceptable ... I had to change out the slave oRing today ...This again fixed the soft \ fading clutch issue but now the bike still wants to pull some with the clutch lever pulled in to the bar ..

Can the HYDO clutch models have the worn clutch rod issue as mentioned above?
Click to expand...

Update and false alarm : My bike had the enhanced clutch dragging issues due to my oil apparently ... Because I have water pump seal issues causing me to change the engine oil often for testing different fixes for this seal, I used all dino oil in my last ride, shell Rimula 40WT. After changing the oil back to 1LT Castrol 10w-50 and ~1LT shell Rimula, my clutch acts ~exactly like it has for the last ~14,000 miles ... Dragging some but acceptable ..
 
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