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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Booster Plug
- Thread starter Kenneth Webb
- Start date
Teaser alert: I got a box from digikey today. Just got back from a test ride. To answer your question, yes.
I took pictures as I went, will get a little write up here shortly
Tazzierob
Husqvarna
AA Class
Hanging out to see what you did! I have seen run-it has updated with pics his 8 parallel 100kNTC mod. Before he'd done this I did the comparisons myself and came up with an almost identical one to Hasenpfeffers, albeit swapped around. This mod does indicate that it it THE most accurate at shifting the temperatures by 20C across the board. There is no way I can confirm how well a Booster Plug or Wuka King or Accelerator actually follow the desired curve without knowing the exact R/T curve for the NTCs used, but as my guess at the Booster setup, using a 10kNTC in parallel with a 56k resistor, it all starts to fall away at the colder temperatures, which is why I think the Wuka has a switch to swap the fixed R or place a different NTC in to better replicate the curve at colder temps, to add more resistance. Cheapest I can find in Aus for the EPCOS 100kNTC +/-1% is $31.50 for 8 plus postage. I would rather mod a spare AIT sensor than bugger up my one and only, so will ask my dealer how much a replacement costs. The Wuka may still end up being a cheaper and easier solution. Will update when I find out the cost of the AIT.
Sorry, work was a beast today. I'll try to get the pictures uploaded in a bit, I need to resize them and grab some food.
Results
I have roughly 70 miles with the mod now, a mix of highway and city stop and go.
I ordered 10 of the thermistors from the ADVrider thread.
I also ordered another AIT from Hall's. It was something like $25 with shipping. This is a BMW stamped part, so it's likely we can source these without having to order from Husky. I ordered before I took mine apart.
CAUTION
The wires are damn small. My stripper only goes down to 28 gauge and these leads were floating in that, so stripping them was a tedious chore.
STEP 1
Remove your AIT from you bike (or pull out the new replacement). This is on the left hand side, you'll need to remove the shroud and wiggle some stuff around to get it out. The ABS lines on the Strada run through here and do not flex. I found it easiest to drop it down, then bring it back up between the frame and the airbox.
STEP 2
Remove the cage piece from the AIT -- Carefully. I used a pipe cutter and cut it lower than the cage piece because I wanted to try to reuse the cage.You can see how the stock thermistor is identical to the new ones, so don't get silly with where you set it.
*note I removed the o-ring as I was trying to get the rest of the case apart, this is not required.
STEP 3
Now you need to strip the leads on the 8 thermistors. In the photo, I left about a half inch of insulation. That was a mistake, I re-did that to about 1/4" to give a lower profile, so I could still protect it in the cage, as I wasn't sure i could put it in unprotected without damaging it. Once you get all of the stripped, gather all the leads from one side together and twist them together. Then do the other side.
STEP 4
Remove the thermistor from the stock AIT. You want to leave as much lead as possible as you don't have much to work with. You'll need to strip these as well. The post in the middle I cut down for clearance.
[apologies I did not take a picture of this]
STEP 5
Tin the twisted leads of the thermistors. Fit it with the AIT and see how much you need to snip off. I fit it so I could slip the leads back down into the case. You can see here how I snipped off a bit of the post in the middle.
STEP 6
Shrink tube it up! The post still divides the sides, so there isn't any risk of shorts, but you can see I did use some clear shrink tube in the above photo. I slide a piece of tube over and shrunk it down, being sure I gave the sensors plenty of room.
STEP 7 (Optional)
Here I slid the cage back on.
Then I used a bit of super glue on it, after that set I slid another piece of shrink tube on it and shrunk it down, trimming it from the cage openings after it was tightened up.
Don't forget to put the o-ring back on, if you took it off. It will fall right out of the hole in the airbox if you don't put it on, ask how I know.
STEP 8
Re-install in the bike. Re-attach the plug. Put the body work back on. Get ready for a ride.
Fire it up. Notice the temp gauge has dropped significantly.
[picture of gauge had a wicked glare]
Results
I have roughly 70 miles with the mod now, a mix of highway and city stop and go.
- It really brings the low end alive. Right off idle is still weak, I never had my bike mossed, so that idle adjustment could cure that.
- It removes the 3k rpm flat spot.
- It is not perfect, it does follow the stock AIT curve very well, but the ECU is still doing its thing, so it's not what I would consider "right" yet. Its richer, it's snappier, but its still hit or miss depending on where in the throttle you are.
I ordered 10 of the thermistors from the ADVrider thread.
I also ordered another AIT from Hall's. It was something like $25 with shipping. This is a BMW stamped part, so it's likely we can source these without having to order from Husky. I ordered before I took mine apart.
CAUTION
The wires are damn small. My stripper only goes down to 28 gauge and these leads were floating in that, so stripping them was a tedious chore.
STEP 1
Remove your AIT from you bike (or pull out the new replacement). This is on the left hand side, you'll need to remove the shroud and wiggle some stuff around to get it out. The ABS lines on the Strada run through here and do not flex. I found it easiest to drop it down, then bring it back up between the frame and the airbox.
STEP 2
Remove the cage piece from the AIT -- Carefully. I used a pipe cutter and cut it lower than the cage piece because I wanted to try to reuse the cage.You can see how the stock thermistor is identical to the new ones, so don't get silly with where you set it.
*note I removed the o-ring as I was trying to get the rest of the case apart, this is not required.
STEP 3
Now you need to strip the leads on the 8 thermistors. In the photo, I left about a half inch of insulation. That was a mistake, I re-did that to about 1/4" to give a lower profile, so I could still protect it in the cage, as I wasn't sure i could put it in unprotected without damaging it. Once you get all of the stripped, gather all the leads from one side together and twist them together. Then do the other side.
STEP 4
Remove the thermistor from the stock AIT. You want to leave as much lead as possible as you don't have much to work with. You'll need to strip these as well. The post in the middle I cut down for clearance.
[apologies I did not take a picture of this]
STEP 5
Tin the twisted leads of the thermistors. Fit it with the AIT and see how much you need to snip off. I fit it so I could slip the leads back down into the case. You can see here how I snipped off a bit of the post in the middle.
STEP 6
Shrink tube it up! The post still divides the sides, so there isn't any risk of shorts, but you can see I did use some clear shrink tube in the above photo. I slide a piece of tube over and shrunk it down, being sure I gave the sensors plenty of room.
STEP 7 (Optional)
Here I slid the cage back on.
Then I used a bit of super glue on it, after that set I slid another piece of shrink tube on it and shrunk it down, trimming it from the cage openings after it was tightened up.
Don't forget to put the o-ring back on, if you took it off. It will fall right out of the hole in the airbox if you don't put it on, ask how I know.
STEP 8
Re-install in the bike. Re-attach the plug. Put the body work back on. Get ready for a ride.
Fire it up. Notice the temp gauge has dropped significantly.
[picture of gauge had a wicked glare]
blakebird
Husqvarna
AA Class
Had some time to tinker on the bikes today, and got the Wuka King installed....took it for a spin and yes, I am now a believer.
Not that I doubted the dozens of folks who have raved about these spoofers enough to get me to finally do it - but I really didn't expect that such drastic a change could be made.
The transformation is indeed pretty incredible.
Look forward to the next trip on it...in two weeks I'll be doing a group ride on dirt from around Berthoud into Wyoming, west of the Snowy Mtns.
I got some good ideas from the previous installs... only did it slightly differently.
Didn't have to drill a hole in any plastic, but would have if there weren't another way.
This worked pretty well and keeps the sensor out of heated air, harm's way, etc.
Didn't get a great picture of the switch mounting, but it's on a bracket attached to the Touratech handguard mount.
There's so much wire, you almost feel like you need to route it to the right side of the bike to take up some of the slack
It's handy, out of my way, and we'll see if it stays there...which depends on how much I think I'll change it's settings.
I may end up tucking it back out of sight a bit. It doesn't need to be an attractive nuisance for passers by to mess with.
Not that I doubted the dozens of folks who have raved about these spoofers enough to get me to finally do it - but I really didn't expect that such drastic a change could be made.
The transformation is indeed pretty incredible.
Look forward to the next trip on it...in two weeks I'll be doing a group ride on dirt from around Berthoud into Wyoming, west of the Snowy Mtns.
I got some good ideas from the previous installs... only did it slightly differently.
Didn't have to drill a hole in any plastic, but would have if there weren't another way.
This worked pretty well and keeps the sensor out of heated air, harm's way, etc.
Didn't get a great picture of the switch mounting, but it's on a bracket attached to the Touratech handguard mount.
There's so much wire, you almost feel like you need to route it to the right side of the bike to take up some of the slack
It's handy, out of my way, and we'll see if it stays there...which depends on how much I think I'll change it's settings.
I may end up tucking it back out of sight a bit. It doesn't need to be an attractive nuisance for passers by to mess with.
NorthnTerraTory
Husqvarna
A Class
So am I the only one who's bike seems to run WORSE after installing the Wukaking? Rougher idle, harder to start, still got stumbling issues. I live in the tropics, but it seems to run better on the cold setting. Had it mossed just before installation, seemed a bit better but didn't ride much.
I am devastated, might put back to original for a comparison. Any ideas out there?
I am devastated, might put back to original for a comparison. Any ideas out there?
I went the DIY route (above).
The math in run-it's post is there, it follows that 20C drop very well, but I'm going to experiment a bit more on mine. I personally think that drop was too much. I've got another stock AIT and at $15 plus thermistors and a half hour of my time, I wouldn't have many qualms about trying it out at a different levels (10C or 15C) drop to see if that gets it back into a nice median.
The math in run-it's post is there, it follows that 20C drop very well, but I'm going to experiment a bit more on mine. I personally think that drop was too much. I've got another stock AIT and at $15 plus thermistors and a half hour of my time, I wouldn't have many qualms about trying it out at a different levels (10C or 15C) drop to see if that gets it back into a nice median.
run-it
Husqvarna
AA Class
http://www.wukaking.com/help.html
Measure & post results. Also measure at 0C, 25C & 50C if you take it off the bike.
run-it
Husqvarna
AA Class
The challenge is to find something passive that will follow the OEM IAT R/T curve, if you do that you will be the man.
20C is working out for me, cold engine map could be leaner, but once warm, which happens pretty quick, I'm happy. I can see 15C or 4.5% might be zeroing in closer to optimum though. Same story here, I am hopeless after having installed my BP and seen it does not help... Same unstable idle and stalling troubles. My view is that this engine is killed by the OEM exhaust. On top of it, I have experienced serious overheating problems. I have 300 miles on my Terra and I'm already thinking about selling it.
Dinosan
Husqvarna
A Class
Where is the sensor mounted? Maybe relocating it will help, ...
NorthnTerraTory
Husqvarna
A Class
Same spot as High Fives, I will post pics of the install soon.
NorthnTerraTory
Husqvarna
A Class
My install pics.
The temp reading on the bike just after installation was 16.5C on the hot setting and 3C on the cold setting. I guess the ambient temp would have been around 25C at the time. The switch is installed just above the radiator near the forks. I don't think the switch location would affect the performance of the wukaking. It is after all changing the temp as seen on the display.
Maybe the dealers stuffed up the moss tune? The trouble is if I take it back they will blame the wukaking for sure.
The temp reading on the bike just after installation was 16.5C on the hot setting and 3C on the cold setting. I guess the ambient temp would have been around 25C at the time. The switch is installed just above the radiator near the forks. I don't think the switch location would affect the performance of the wukaking. It is after all changing the temp as seen on the display.
Maybe the dealers stuffed up the moss tune? The trouble is if I take it back they will blame the wukaking for sure.
run-it
Husqvarna
AA Class
There may be some underlying issue with the bike. If the dash is displaying about 20C less than actual ambient in cold position, & you experienced the difficulty in similar temperature than it's not necessary to measure ohms.
How's did it run before WK?
You say it runs better in the cold pos than the hot right now?
NorthnTerraTory
Husqvarna
A Class
Yeah seems to. Before the WK/ moss it idled smoother, started easier, but had the stumbling problem causing stalling if you weren't ready for it.
run-it
Husqvarna
AA Class
The WK shouldn't affect idle on the TR after the engine is warmed, during start & warm-up the engine can be running rich but it shouldn't be much of an issue.
If the -20C runs better than -10C this suggests it's not the increased richness that's causing your trouble. How long did you ride it?
NorthnTerraTory
Husqvarna
A Class
It seems to start and idle ok when it's warm, so maybe the richness is causing the starting issues. I can live with that, but I have noticed the wanting to stall issue even after it is warm. Not all the time, just when ive fogotton about it, it does it just to remind me.Im that used to it these days i usually get time to catch it before it stalls. Still pisses me right off though. If I ride it hard it runs sweet as!
run-it
Husqvarna
AA Class
Once warmed it will use a different map than cold so that's a clue.
Should not be running rough or stalling there's some issue there, may or may not be WK related.
Just to be clear, a -20C offset during cold engine may not run as well as the factory map. Possibly a bit too rich. -10C offset setting during cold engine will be closer to the OE map & may run better.
Once warmed, there should be no hesitation or stalling issues at -20C setting & if the trouble is from being too rich it shouldn't run worse at -10C.
Ambient temperature display on the dash is all you need to look at to verify your switch position (hot -10C / cold -20C) is correct & the WK was built & is working correctly.
Katten
Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi all! After reading here that the booster plug seems to solve the Terras small stalling problems, and going from a good bike to a great bike, I have a question about the booster plug. Maybe you have already written about it on this forum, sorry.
I ordered the booster plug and got it delivered today. Before I put it on my new Terra, I just want to make sure it doesn't hurt my bike. I have everything in original on the bike for example the exhaust. Does that matter? Can the catalyst be damaged by the booster plug?
I ordered the booster plug and got it delivered today. Before I put it on my new Terra, I just want to make sure it doesn't hurt my bike. I have everything in original on the bike for example the exhaust. Does that matter? Can the catalyst be damaged by the booster plug?