ECU Reset - Important information

[engineerk9]

To get to the stepper motor you will need to remove the airbox. When removing it be especially careful of parts #9,10,11,12 and 13. They look like they could break quite easily.

I wonder if "adjusting" the TPS sensor could "trick" the ecu into thinking the throttle was wider than it actually was, only 2-3 degrees would be enough

 

[Mark_H]

To get to the stepper motor you will need to remove the airbox. When removing it be especially careful of parts #9,10,11,12 and 13. They look like they could break quite easily.

Yet another horrendous long winded job to try and make the thing run somewhere near normal - is anything on this dog of a bike easy to get to??

 

[hasenpfeffer]

I wonder if "adjusting" the TPS sensor could "trick" the ecu into thinking the throttle was wider than it actually was, only 2-3 degrees would be enough

Not likely. From previous experiences, ECUs tend to error out if the startup voltage is out of a certain range.

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

I don't have the solution, but I'm experiencing the same problem. It's mostly visible in 1st and 2nd gears for me, here's a few situations when it's annoying:
-Putting the bike 1st gear and letting it roll without throttle until the speed stabilizes, then twisting the throttle even as little as possible jerks the bike forward and letting it go jerks it back. This makes riding is slow traffic annoying as hell.
-When letting go of the throttle at 1st gear and 2nd gear speeds, the engine breaking along with the on/off throttle causes a violent jerk. The higher the speeds the less it is visible.
The bike was exhibiting similar behavior, but not as pronounced when my 1st 600 mile service was nearing. After the dealer did the service, the bike was as smooth as I've first gotten it. Someone suggested for me to check the Throttle Positioning Sensor and Idle Air Controller which I'll be checking when I get the chance. Does anybody know if I have to remove both plastics and the airbox in order to get to it? If the air box needs to go I might as well prepare the tools necessary for the podmod.

This is exactly the problem I have, only explained much better. The bike is finally running without stumbling, plus de restricted, which I'm loving, but now this little problem pisses me off! It would be nice to ride my bike just once without anything to annoy me.

 

[drzcharlie]

You'll get there. My bike has been running very good for about 7 months now.

 

[mag00]

I wonder if "adjusting" the TPS sensor could "trick" the ecu into thinking the throttle was wider than it actually was, only 2-3 degrees would be enough

There is an adjustment screw on the TB for the butterfly. You could start there, then maybe elongate the holes in the TPS mounting and index it out differently.

 

[Mark_H]

As

You'll get there. My bike has been running very good for about 7 months now.

Nearly as good as it should have been right out from the shop

 

[drzcharlie]

Mark, yes, as it should have been when it was new. However, I wasn't going to let the bike sit until a factory fix was available. I ride my bike at least every other day and on weekends (sans rain). Yes I had to fiddle with it. but it was interesting and I learn about FI along the way.

 

[Markusen]

Hey I wanted to ask, has anyone done this resetting process and got an even worse result in stuttering/stalls?

 

[Ogre_fl]

I had worse results when I tried the reset with a Wuka king/booster plug installed.

See post #53.

ECU Reset - Important information

 

[WayneC]

The idle actuator and TPS are the same as the 650GS BM, resets are done by diagnostics only and should be done when changing components including air filter/exhausts

Depowering the BMS-E does not do an reset, regrettably it is an urban myth which took hold with the 650GS owners as well. It comes about because that was the way of resetting the early Bosch MA 2.2 and 2.4 systems and when the "learning" ECU's were released particularly the 650GS BM well meaning people were struggling with some firmware issues and looking for solutions, even the BM techs were suffering a lack of info and applying the old techniques to the new ECU's

It is all still written up and uncorrected at f650.com in their FAQ even though we know know it is all incorrect

The process is reset adaptions with either Dealer software or a GS911 then idle the bike until the fan cuts in, this builds the new adaptions across the temperature range. The same process applies to the BM cars, had to do it with my shopping trolley last year when the air mass sensor failed, takes longer with it

Re the TPS, yes if you try fooling the BMS-E on that it can generate error codes with implausible values or out of range errors

 

[overlander]

Well guys, I've been reading this and am almost as confused about the consensus here as I have ever been. I'm new here on this forum but not new to motorcycles and certainly not new to fuel injection and even more certainly not new to modifying stuff. I have always liked the BMW 650 but never cared for the styling and weight. When Husky came out with this bike I found it intriguing! Higher hp, less weight and distinctive styling, hmmm! So I bought one before leaving for a 5 week trip on the TAT (and beyond) but when I rode it for the first time it frankly ran so badly that I abandoned the plan to take it and took the 1200 GS instead. Had a great trip and came back to try and solve the running issues. The bike had been serviced by a well known Husky dealer in Illinois funded by the PO. He ended up getting the ECU updated and other things that I wasn't clear on, and promptly sold it to me. I took it on it's first full day ride and things started off not OK and the farther we went the worse it got! Surging, stalling, and running in such an erratic way that my Suzuki TM 400 back in '74 seemed to be rather delightful to operate by comparison! I debated on parting it out for fear of it landing in some other unsuspecting victim's garage. I decided to pursue a repair and ended up on this thread. Learning the quirks of this machine has been a bit frustrating but fun actually.

 

[overlander]

To elaborate on this issue further. I decided to attempt the airbox mod and stripped the bodywork for the task and discovered that it had been modified and taped back in place. After removing the tape and found several screws stipped and missing!! Upon further disassembly of the air box lid..WHAT??
NO air filter at ALL!! Dropped by my local Cycle Gear and dug around in their array of random Uni filters and found one that would fit in the rather confining space that the stock housing. Once done it ran significantly better I still experienced erratic idling and surging at cruising speed. I read about the re-set here and ran through the process ending up way after dark before completing it. Seem to start better but still idling very rough. While staring blankly at the running engine that night (I've mastered that peculiar stare over the years) I saw a faint but distinct and random flash of light. Was it?? Yes it is! A leaking center coil?! Yep it's true and after only 13K miles! replaced it and followed the re-set procedure. I have to say it runs beautifully now and to a good extent because I ignored the naysayers and listened to some good advice of the guys on this forum! Thanks! I posted this rather long story to try and offer some help to some of the struggling mates out there that are stumped with odd running issues.

 

[overlander]

As a post script to this, I wonder if the mechanic at the dealer in Illinois scratched his head and wondered "where did this extra air filter on my work station come from???"

 

[sussurf]

Well done!
Now enjoy****************************************!

 

[alekloy]

It was nice lecture.I'd like to thank everyone who is sharing experience whit tr650.Though I don't have problems like most ouf you(stalling etc.),I have my own My strada was restricted to 35kW.I've changed throtle cable holder and changed cable position on throtle body,hoping that this would do the trick,but it wasn't coplete sucess.Restricted had top speed of 140km/h now it has 160km/h so it's not declared 175km/h.Also my fuel consumption isn't ad declared.Riding at 90-100km/h it should be around 3,5l/100km and mine has more like 4,5l/100km.Does anyone have any idea what's going on? I will try to reset ECU and will see if it helps.

 

[Madmal]

To elaborate on this issue further. I decided to attempt the airbox mod and stripped the bodywork for the task and discovered that it had been modified and taped back in place. After removing the tape and found several screws stipped and missing!! Upon further disassembly of the air box lid..WHAT??
NO air filter at ALL!! Dropped by my local Cycle Gear and dug around in their array of random Uni filters and found one that would fit in the rather confining space that the stock housing. Once done it ran significantly better I still experienced erratic idling and surging at cruising speed. I read about the re-set here and ran through the process ending up way after dark before completing it. Seem to start better but still idling very rough. While staring blankly at the running engine that night (I've mastered that peculiar stare over the years) I saw a faint but distinct and random flash of light. Was it?? Yes it is! A leaking center coil?! Yep it's true and after only 13K miles! replaced it and followed the re-set procedure. I have to say it runs beautifully now and to a good extent because I ignored the naysayers and listened to some good advice of the guys on this forum! Thanks! I posted this rather long story to try and offer some help to some of the struggling mates out there that are stumped with odd running issues.

Ive just decided to cahnge the air filter on mine and discovered 2 pop rivets in the air box cavity but on further inspection found the "donut" around throttle body/airbox is completely missing... Bit hard to put back on.