ECU Reset - Important information

[Baddrapp]

I read an article that stated a plug with 2 or more electrodes will only spark at the one with the least resistance. It makes sense. Electricity is lazy. Always looking for the easy way out.

 

[mag00]

I read an article that stated a plug with 2 or more electrodes will only spark at the one with the least resistance. It makes sense. Electricity is lazy. Always looking for the easy way out.

I posted a topic on plugs, it has a video demonstrating this. But interesting is that 3d plug.

 

[engineerk9]

The manual indicates the plugs to be changed at 20000 kilometers. The center plug looks like it opened up a lot. I wonder if an iridium plug would be better. I think they are dreaming to get 20000 km out of these plugs.

As each plug has it's own coil I think the Iridium plugs are the way to go (they don't work on multi cylinder bikes where the coil energises 2 plugs)

As I've now changed to the pod filter, (which made a huge improvement to mid-range torque) my next mod is to lengthen the pipe joining the pod-filter to the elbow, to gain a "ram-air" effect - in theory 2.142 times the diameter is a good start, longer might be even more effective, however could be negative at full throttle

On my ZRX1100 I get 40,000klms out of the same type of plugs as fitted to the Terra - I interchange them every 12,000klms (2nd service)

 

[Quirky]

As each plug has it's own coil I think the Iridium plugs are the way to go (they don't work on multi cylinder bikes where the coil energises 2 plugs)

As I've now changed to the pod filter, (which made a huge improvement to mid-range torque) my next mod is to lengthen the pipe joining the pod-filter to the elbow, to gain a "ram-air" effect - in theory 2.142 times the diameter is a good start, longer might be even more effective, however could be negative at full throttle

On my ZRX1100 I get 40,000klms out of the same type of plugs as fitted to the Terra - I interchange them every 12,000klms (2nd service)

Ohhhhh....... d..e..a..r****************************************

S..i..g..h

 

[Ogre_fl]

This is what I have. Plug on the right is from the center. The open side on top was facing the intake. I did not mark the outboard before pulling. Around 3k miles, 91 chevron, no spoofer, pod mod, and single can.

Here, according to mag00, are my squeamishly carboned plugs.
Are they really that much worse than his, other than possibly he has a better camera?

FWIW 5000 miles, 91-93 octane, wuka plug mostly set on cool (-38 I think) otherwise stock.

 

[mag00]

Here, according to mag00, are my squeamishly carboned plugs.
Are they really that much worse than his, other than possibly he has a better camera?

FWIW 5000 miles, 91-93 octane, wuka plug mostly set on cool (-38 I think) otherwise stock.

I checked mine last night.
They "look" ok to me.
FWIW the plugs on my outboard look OK me too when its running like crap, but new ones make it run right.

I checked the gap and one side on each of the plugs was tight.
The electrode seems tweeked to one side a bit, but the other side was near the 0.6mm spec gap.

I need to source some new ones.

I was going by this photo. Any chance to post up in the spark plug topic? I'm going to run a Brisk in the center hole. There is some concern about the operating voltages being different, so hopefully all will be OK.

You guys running the AIT spoof might be ok in that if it is "adapted out", it may only adapt out in specific ranges, not completely negate the effects. Seems all the hedging and such on the ait spoof, saying it is learned out is based on an all or nothing ideology, which probably is not true. In fact, it may very well be that it only adapts out where it is not needed. Could explain why some love it and others do not. This would also lead a person to believe the real problem is not fuel, just like giving candy to a kid may shut them up, the sliver still may be in their foot. I'm looking for the sliver.

I have no intention of luring you to my van with candy.

Another good reason to post up pics on the plugs and evaluate. It will help understand what really is going on in the engine.

 

[engineerk9]

Here, according to mag00, are my squeamishly carboned plugs.
Are they really that much worse than his, other than possibly he has a better camera?

FWIW 5000 miles, 91-93 octane, wuka plug mostly set on cool (-38 I think) otherwise stock.

When using 91 RON fuel l suggest adding 0.8ml per litre of acetone, as this improves the combustion process in Australia 91RON is very poor quality 98RON is best & is also the most cost effective

 

[broadwayron]

My stance back then was, why does a guy in his home garage think he knows more than the engineers who went to school and is paid big bucks and do it for a living daily with dynos and wind tunnels and all the proper test equipment? Well, the airbox design is one reason, for sure. But that was probably not the same guy who worked out the running characteristics and fuel/ignition mapping.

Dave

+1... Good point.

 

[tweber]

My plugs were firing off both sides.... I am positive on that. Maybe not at once but both plugs had the center electrode notched on both side facing the outer electrodes. Maybe when gap on one side grow larger....electric found the shortest way again. As to why two is better than one.

I dont now squat about plugs but I know it runs great with new ones gapped @ 6

 

[mag00]

I can't say that your plugs are showing lean.

 

[kyle01]

So my bike is like most others here- runs like sh*t off idle. I did the eruption, but like everyone understands at this point- the bike simply adapted it out. Ran great for 3k-ish miles and now it's pretty much crap again. Here's an idea- only bringing it up because I just went through it with my honda element- it had it's catalytic converter stolen and it's downstream 02 sensor went with it. I replaced it with a pipe instead of another cat and welded in a hung for the 02. I read about the "02 spacer" to trick the ecu into thinking there was a cat- which keeps the CEL off.

Well, it's worked for the honda in that scenario. Would there be a benefit from spacing the 02 sensor off from the head pipe?? Would it "see" leaner exhaust readings and try to compensate??

Ideas? I'd love to rip all of that crap out of there and plop an FCR-MX carb in its place.

 

[spiderman]

I had my doubts about the relearn procedure actually resetting the ECU so I asked my dealer to check into it for me (Hall's Cycle in Springfield, IL) They checked with the manufacturer (don't know who they talked to) but they were told the bike needs to be mossed to actually do a ECU reset. I recall someone else making this statement several months ago but can't remember who. Didn't hear any more about it on this forum. But for what it's worth I'm passing along this info.

BTW, this dealer has had my bike for about 10 days trying to get it mossed and they haven't been able to connect with the Husky mothership wherever that is. Apparently they're not the only ones having this problem. Anyone else had a successful moss in the last couple of weeks?

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

I did mine with the spoofer still in line. It seems to run better with no stumbling on the 'coldest' setting (most variation between ambient and adjusted temp), but still stumbled on the lesser setting. I envisage more stumbles to come when the weather heats up.

I'll leave it for now and take advantage of the first time I've been able to ride the bike without stumbles since buying it. If (read:when) it starts stumbling again, I'll try the reset with the Wuka disconnected. Then I'll give up and sell the f$&king thing!

Well the weathers warmed up and the stumbling is as bad as ever. About to do the reset with the stock AIT sensor in place, then plug the Wuka back in. Not real confidant, I just think these bikes don't like heat/humidity.

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

Well the weathers warmed up and the stumbling is as bad as ever. About to do the reset with the stock AIT sensor in place, then plug the Wuka back in. Not real confidant, I just think these bikes don't like heat/humidity.

Well, that was a waste of time. As bad as ever. It's official, I give up! I'm over this bike. Stumbles, air box, getting harder and harder to find neutral. I'd sell it if I could find anyone who wanted it.

 

[Ogre_fl]

Have you tried running it without the wuka, just the stock set up?
Also, have you tried replacing the plugs?

 

[drzcharlie]

I'd put Brisk plugs in it before I'd give up. Also, look at my LC2 thread it worked for me.

 

[broadwayron]

Well, that was a waste of time. As bad as ever. It's official, I give up! I'm over this bike. Stumbles, air box, getting harder and harder to find neutral. I'd sell it if I could find anyone who wanted it.

Funny, this bike is the easiest one to find neutral I think I've ever owned!

 

[drzcharlie]

What ^ He ^ said.

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

Have you tried running it without the wuka, just the stock set up?

Not for a while, but the stumbles were there before I got the Wuka.

I'd put Brisk plugs in it before I'd give up. Also, look at my LC2 thread it worked for me.

Been away from the forum for a while, didn't see the plugs thread. I'll give them a go. But I think this bike just doesn't like the tropics. The hotter it gets, the worse it is. It would be interesting to see if anyone else who lives in a tropical area is experiencing the same woes.

Funny, this bike is the easiest one to find neutral I think I've ever owned!

Never used to be a problem, just lately when I'm at a standstill, before I shut down the bike etc.

 

[Ogre_fl]

What I found here during the hottest most humid times was the bike ran best with the wuka removed.
Yea, I had a few stumbles here & there, but it was so much better than with the wuka in either the hot or cold setting.
Because of this I recently had wuka make me a special plug with a stock (no offset) and the cold setting (38-40 deg F offset) as I never found a condition that the hot setting seemed to work.