ECU Reset - Important information

[Dutchgit]

I had some idle issues on m wifes 650 Dakar (BMW) and I decided to turn up the idle screw a bit and all is well.

 

[drzcharlie]

Talk to us Dutchgit. How much did you turn it up? Did you do it with the bike running or off?

 

[Dutchgit]

I did it with the engine running. (When the engine was cold as well I believe)
Just turned it up a bit untill it sounded right to me. We often had cold starting issues with that, cutting out after the first (or even the first few) cold starts. After that no more problems. Might have been a quarter of a turn. The idle valve will open/close as the ECU tells it to. If you open the butterfly valve a touch untill it sounds right, the ECU will match the air that goes in with fuel to match (or so is my theory) because it's measured by the lambda probe. The idle valve doesn't need to open or close.
You could re-adjust when it seems too much when the engine is warm but I didn't need to.

Maybe I'm totally besides the concept but I'm of the "Push that big red button and see what happens" school.

Cheers, Ard

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

Gaday all. I haven't been on here for a while, and I'm a bit of a layman when it comes to ecus and other electronic gizmos. What are we trying to achieve by resetting the ecu? I still have stumbling problems, even with the Wuka installed, although it's not as bad now the weather has cooled a bit (I live in the tropics). Is there a chance the reset will cure the stumbles? Reset with or without the Wuka installed? Cheers for your advice!

 

[drzcharlie]

I did it with the engine running. (When the engine was cold as well I believe)
Just turned it up a bit untill it sounded right to me. We often had cold starting issues with that, cutting out after the first (or even the first few) cold starts. After that no more problems. Might have been a quarter of a turn. The idle valve will open/close as the ECU tells it to. If you open the butterfly valve a touch untill it sounds right, the ECU will match the air that goes in with fuel to match (or so is my theory) because it's measured by the lambda probe. The idle valve doesn't need to open or close.
You could re-adjust when it seems too much when the engine is warm but I didn't need to.

Maybe I'm totally besides the concept but I'm of the "Push that big red button and see what happens" school.

Cheers, Ard

Thanks Ard

 

[kiwiape]

So next time I will try adding a step which I didn't try. While battery is disconnected turn the ignition 'ON' then off.

I tried this is does not work.....

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

Gaday all. I haven't been on here for a while, and I'm a bit of a layman when it comes to ecus and other electronic gizmos. What are we trying to achieve by resetting the ecu? I still have stumbling problems, even with the Wuka installed, although it's not as bad now the weather has cooled a bit (I live in the tropics). Is there a chance the reset will cure the stumbles? Reset with or without the Wuka installed? Cheers for your advice!

Bump. So should I give the reset a go? It can't hurt? Disconnect the Wuka first? Any advice much appreciated!

 

[AUS_TR650]

So should I give the reset a go? It can't hurt

Take it to your dealer even if you have to pay 1 hours labour for them to reset. I did, bike runs great now with no stalling. Never used a booster plug or similar.
Got to remember that stock gearing on this bike is quite high so it will always need a little throttle to get moving.

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

Take it to your dealer even if you have to pay 1 hours labour for them to reset. I did, bike runs great now with no stalling. Never used a booster plug or similar.
Got to remember that stock gearing on this bike is quite high so it will always need a little throttle to get moving.

I'm midway through doing the reset myself as I type this, so we'll see how it goes. I have changed the front sprocket to a 15T so not as highly geared now. Heaps more responsive. The problem is not so much taking off, but just after or even when the clutch is in and the throttle is revved slightly it will stumble/stall sometimes. I'm that used to it now, I can usually rev it before the bike actually stalls, but it still sh!ts me to tears!

 

[AUS_TR650]

The problem is not so much taking off, but just after or even when the clutch is in and the throttle is revved slightly it will stumble/stall sometimes.

Yeah I know what you mean as my bike started doing the same thing regularly. The ECU reset (if successful) will fix your issue with stumbling on take off.
As mentioned in another thread, as soon as I left the dealer, the fuel cut-in during decel/coasting was abrupt and the bike would lurch when rolling to a stop. However after 20mins of stop/start riding, it readapted and smoothed out. Good luck, hope it works out.

 

[nev..]

Got to remember that stock gearing on this bike is quite high so it will always need a little throttle to get moving.

I stalled my bike in the middle of the road when I rode it out of the bike shop on the day I bought it. I thought, oh yeah, I'm used to litre capacity engines, I need to be a bit more eager on the throttle on this one. I think it stalled once more that morning when I was tootling around taking the very long way home which I put down to my throttle/clutch technique again. A bit later I was doing about 100kph downhill with the throttle closed and it really was engine braking a lot and i pulled in the clutch and it stalled. That is a fuelling issue, not a gearing issue.

 

[AUS_TR650]

That is a fuelling issue, not a gearing issue.

I agree. The reason why it stalled in your situation is that the ECU is not injecting at 0% throttle. For memory it resumes injection around 2,500rev/min so it doesn't stall when you pull the clutch in before stopping.

 

[Ogre_fl]

I maybe crazy but here's a theory. For those people using the IAT spoofers is it worth doing the ecu reset with the stock IAT sensor just for the first warm up at least.
If a reset is done this way and the ecu is re-configuring the whole set up, wouldn't it be best to spoof the temp after a re-tune instead of during the ecu set up process.
Any thoughts on this and someone willing to give it a go?

I have done the ECU power down/resets with the Wuka booster/spoofer in place and now with the stock IAT.

A little background.
I had ordered the Wuka spoofer as soon as I had bought the bike, but did not install it for a few months
For the first few months of owning my bike it never stalled, but would stumble a little on occasion.
After a few months I decided to try the Wuka. While mine was not "bad", the Wuka made it better.

Fast forward 9 months.
My bike seemed to be running a bit worse with the Wuka than it had originally with no booster/spoofer.
An occasional stall during the first few minutes of running and notable stumbles.
I tried the reset with the Wuka in place. The result was even worse running.
I experienced many stalls over the past 2 weeks, even ones after it had warmed up.

This weekend I did the reset again. This time I disconnected the Wuka before I did it.
I ran the stock IAT through the first warm up, then re-connected the Wuka.
The bike now runs similar to how it did when I first installed the Wuka several months ago.
No stalls and no stumbles.

My opinion is if you have a spoofer, switch back to the stock IAT for the re-set.

 

[NorthnTerraTory]

I did mine with the spoofer still in line. It seems to run better with no stumbling on the 'coldest' setting (most variation between ambient and adjusted temp), but still stumbled on the lesser setting. I envisage more stumbles to come when the weather heats up.

I'll leave it for now and take advantage of the first time I've been able to ride the bike without stumbles since buying it. If (read:when) it starts stumbling again, I'll try the reset with the Wuka disconnected. Then I'll give up and sell the f$&king thing!

 

[sussurf]

I reset today.
Made no diff whatsoever. No spoofer on my bike.

 

[engineerk9]

Further to my post;
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/v16-moss-tool-update-session-screen-shots.43512/

ECU Reset Procedure;

1. Disconnect battery for 30 minutes or more.
2. Reconnect battery and you should here the dash make a click sound.
3. Turn ignition key “on” and wait 5 seconds.
4. Twist throttle from idle to full and back to idle 3 times.
5. Turn ignition off.
6. Turn ignition on and start engine (DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING)
7. Let engine warm up until fan comes on (VERY IMPORTANT)
8. Check dash, Fuel used, Trip meter will have been erased and Time should need to be reset.
9. Go ride….did this help….?

Looking forward to hearing how you guys go with this.......

At 10,000klms a spanner warning light came on the Dash - I change my oil at 5,000klms rather than 10k
How do I get the spanner light out

 

[FER QUILES]

Further to my post;
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/v16-moss-tool-update-session-screen-shots.43512/

ECU Reset Procedure;

1. Disconnect battery for 30 minutes or more.
2. Reconnect battery and you should here the dash make a click sound.
3. Turn ignition key “on” and wait 5 seconds.
4. Twist throttle from idle to full and back to idle 3 times.
5. Turn ignition off.
6. Turn ignition on and start engine (DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING)
7. Let engine warm up until fan comes on (VERY IMPORTANT)
8. Check dash, Fuel used, Trip meter will have been erased and Time should need to be reset.
9. Go ride….did this help….?

Looking forward to hearing how you guys go with this.......

after two weeks to follow your advise , my Terra go on same iddle stall. NO CHANGE AT ALL.
I desconected plus 1 hour y follow strigtly your steps. it seems something was change; but the hard truth is NOT AT ALL. IT IS BECAMING A SERIOSLY PROBLEM.

 

[kiwiape]

At 10,000klms a spanner warning light came on the Dash - I change my oil at 5,000klms rather than 10k
How do I get the spanner light out

I am guessing a little, I have seen this on the MOSS Tool and I think it can only be reset there...

 

[James Rideout]

Well I've had the eruption installed for about 2 months now and clocked about 2000K. Upon installing the eruption the bike had a slight improvement, nothing serious. My idol was still erratic, stalled less but still stalled on occasion, pulled slightly better once above 3500K.

Pretty sure my ECU learned what ever it does because in the last 3 weeks my idol has gone to shit jumping from 1400-1600. No matter if the bike is cold, hot or the outside temp is cold or hot I needed to give the bike approx. 1/4 throttle just to start. Otherwise it would crank over all day and not catch. On a FI bike there should be no need to give throttle to start.

I tried the ECU reset procedure multiple times and no difference. So I removed the eruption, installed the factory air temp sensor and tried the reset.

Well the bike fired right up. It actually cought before I had the starter button fully depressed. Idol is rock steady at 1550 rpm and no more stupid snow flake symbol. Pull just as hard as when I first installed the Eruption mod.

I am totally done with these cheap temp spoofers. Going to keep it stock for a while until I can afford a PCV with Auto tune or the AR-FIX which is being tested on another thread. Yes they are still a type of spoofer but the ECU shouldn't be able to learn them.

Anyone want a free Eruption come to Nova Scotia and i'll hook you up.

 

[engineerk9]

I am guessing a little, I have seen this on the MOSS Tool and I think it can only be reset there...

I might have to live with the spanner & the "flashing" "ice" light Which goes out when riding in warmer 20+degC (Booster plug)