• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

ECU Reset - Important information

Lekolite said:
I did the reset this afternoon and took a short ride. The ERUPTION is in place as well. Acceleration was smooth, Decel was still full of jerkiness and exhaust pop. It almost stalled once on deceleration. That seems to be the typical place for my engine to stall. I still believe I will purchase a PCV w/Auto-tune as soon as I have the cash.
Click to expand...

This actually sounds worse than mine which is on OEM setup...seems your eruption is not helping any. Is your dash ambient temp showing 20C lower than actual?
 
spiderman said:
I'm not familiar with this stuff so I'll ask a dumb question. If this procedure resets the throttle valve potentiometer/idle speed sensor, would it be possible to turn up the throttle stop adjustment and then go through this reset and not get a tps error?
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I think this would make it leaner at idle, (after you have done the reset) not what you want.
 
Nordland said:
You have to wait until all capacitors are discharged.

That will not last only 30 seconds ;)


kiwiape, it is possible to delete the mapping completely from the ECU with the MOSS tool and write the mapping new with the MOSS tool. This would cause a reset. Or not? :D

Letting it idle until the fan comes is only a rumor, it is a myth, just for your feeling that it works. It works without waiting that long. By the way... not that good for the engine letting it idle for so long.
Click to expand...

The MOSS Tool does not let you see anything to do with mapping, it just displays the "Part number for prog. ECU new", see below from mine you can see a new version has been loaded 8543015.
DSC_0418.jpg


Norland. It was your reset procedure I followed in the first place (http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/st...-650-intermittent-stopping.41191/#post-401912) and it does not work because you left out the most important part, letting it idle to operating temp and it seems after reading this thread that it has indeed helped others. This procedure is what I have been advised to do by two highly qualified motorcycle technicians each of 25 years experience with Hondas, Suzuki, KTM, Aprilia, Husky and Gas Gas.

Also, KTM advises riders in New Zealand that go from sea level to 1000-1500m above to let their bikes idle (without touching them) until they are at operating temp.

Who told you letting it idle is no good?, now there's a myth!, its an engine thats what they do. Checking the oil level, the manual says to let it idle until the fan comes on....so it cant be that bad if the manufacturer says to do it.......can it now?
 
kiwiape said:
. Checking the oil level, the manual says to let it idle until the fan comes on....so it cant be that bad if the manufacturer says to do it.......can it now?
Click to expand...
The manufacturer has also provided a shoddy airbox and a few other nasty surprises....doooh.:D
Don't believe ANYTHING coming from "the specialists in the know"...only if they can PROVE it in front of my eyes. Until then it's common sense and logic only.
 
ensure that you have a clean oil filter, big singles don't enjoy chugging away for to long:oldman:
"Inertia effect"
 
glitch_oz said:
The manufacturer has also provided a shoddy airbox and a few other nasty surprises....doooh.:D
Don't believe ANYTHING coming from "the specialists in the know"...only if they can PROVE it in front of my eyes. Until then it's common sense and logic only.
Click to expand...


I'll put my money on the guys who designed the engine had nothing to do with the airbox, and vice versa. :)
 
kiwiape said:
The MOSS Tool does not let you see anything to do with mapping, it just displays the "Part number for prog. ECU new", see below from mine you can see a new version has been loaded 8543015.
View attachment 43077


Norland. It was your reset procedure I followed in the first place (http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/st...-650-intermittent-stopping.41191/#post-401912) and it does not work because you left out the most important part, letting it idle to operating temp and it seems after reading this thread that it has indeed helped others. This procedure is what I have been advised to do by two highly qualified motorcycle technicians each of 25 years experience with Hondas, Suzuki, KTM, Aprilia, Husky and Gas Gas.

Also, KTM advises riders in New Zealand that go from sea level to 1000-1500m above to let their bikes idle (without touching them) until they are at operating temp.

Who told you letting it idle is no good?, now there's a myth!, its an engine thats what they do. Checking the oil level, the manual says to let it idle until the fan comes on....so it cant be that bad if the manufacturer says to do it.......can it now?​
Click to expand...
​
If you can call 1600 rpm idling LOL. As long as the oil is flowing and the battery is charging and the cooling system is working, it's all good.

Anyway, that wives tale of not idling is from the old days of air cooled bikes.
 
OK, so kiwiapes mechanics are right, the ones here are wrong :rolleyes: I think somewhere in the middle we will get close to the truth ;)

I wonder if the diagnostic system/tool we are talking about is exactly the same :confused:
 
Nordland said:
OK, so kiwiapes mechanics are right, the ones here are wrong :rolleyes: I think somewhere in the middle we will get close to the truth ;)

I wonder if the diagnostic system/tool we are talking about is exactly the same :confused:
Click to expand...

Nordland, Nobody knows. They are all guessing like the rest of us.
 
Did the reset twice today...first time I wasn't sure it worked so I done it again...same result...I've got the eruption installed, temp shows 20 deg lower...definitely runs a bit better than stock, nothing to write home about.....still has a stumble when idoling... Jumps between 1400 and 1500 doesn't stall but the idol is nowhere near steady...anyone else have these results?
 
I maybe crazy but here's a theory. For those people using the IAT spoofers is it worth doing the ecu reset with the stock IAT sensor just for the first warm up at least.
If a reset is done this way and the ecu is reconfiguring the whole set up, wouldn't it be best to spoof the temp after a re-tune instead of during the ecu set up process.
Any thoughts on this and someone willing to give it a go?
 
This evening I did the "old version" reset of just starting it and letting it idle until the fan came on. Didn't have enough time to disconnect the battery, and reset it that way. Had to get the kids ready for beddy-bye. Went out for about an hour tonight, my hanging idle is now gone, so is the off-idle stumble. But, now it died 3-4 times coming up to a stop. Got to do the long version reset. Oh ya, need to decide to move forward with the AT or ditch it all and get the the AF-XIED, either way it's a couple hundred bucks more.
 
James Rideout said:
Did the reset twice today...first time I wasn't sure it worked so I done it again...same result...I've got the eruption installed, temp shows 20 deg lower...definitely runs a bit better than stock, nothing to write home about.....still has a stumble when idoling... Jumps between 1400 and 1500 doesn't stall but the idol is nowhere near steady...anyone else have these results?
Click to expand...

The idle speed of my Terra also is not very stable. It was not since delivery but i feel it is little bit worse after the ECU update. It jumps between 1.500 and 1.600 U/min, rarely between 1.400 and 1.600 U/min. After the TPS/idle speed sensor reset it is much better on operational temperatur, when cold idle speed still jumps a little bit.

Idle speed never has been totally "flatline" at my Terra, so I wonder what about other TR 650´s idle speed? Someone has completely stable idle speed :confused:

(Maybe this is a topic for a new thread???)
 
Nordland said:
The idle speed of my Terra also is not very stable. It was not since delivery but i feel it is little bit worse after the ECU update. It jumps between 1.500 and 1.600 U/min, rarely between 1.400 and 1.600 U/min. After the TPS/idle speed sensor reset it is much better on operational temperatur, when cold idle speed still jumps a little bit.

Idle speed never has been totally "flatline" at my Terra, so I wonder what about other TR 650´s idle speed? Someone has completely stable idle speed :confused:

(Maybe this is a topic for a new thread???)
Click to expand...


Are you aware of the idle screw adjustment?
 
Didn´t you say in another thread that this screw is fixed with glue?

So if there are any problems during warranty the dealer will find out that you have created yourself hand on the bike and warranty is lost.
 
Nordland said:
Didn´t you say in another thread that this screw is fixed with glue?
Click to expand...

What do you need the warranty for if they cannot fix it?

The courts have determined that you are not beholden to the dealership for service to keep your warranty valid.

Disclaimer: Take it to a qualified mechanic. These are not adjustments for the mechanically challenged.

Hope this helps
 
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