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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Evap Can
- Thread starter Wadejesu
- Start date
bluegopher
Husqvarna
AA Class
Riding Again
Husqvarna
AA Class
I happened to notice last night that the crankcase hose goes to the evap canister. If the evap canister draws vacuum would it now draw vacuum on the crank case? The reason I ask is drag racers for years for put a vacuum pump on their cars to put a vacuum on the crankcase to free up horsepower. What is every one doing about that hose?
Kenneth Webb
Livin' It Up!
High Five ran his vent line to a low position and I wonder if there is any chance of pulling water into the tank when making a deep water crossing. Fab explained to me where he ran his line as I recall, but darned if I can remember right now. Is this something to just not worry about? My canister and valve are going to be history soon. Fab and I had similar heating problems when riding this summer, so not sure how much all this really helps, but it must do SOME good. I made a half day ride in the mountains yesterday and even though we got up to the cool at 9000 feet the fan was working hard.
Riding Again
Husqvarna
AA Class
I wonder if you could do a one way valve to keep the crank case vacuum. Seems like the vacuum would help a little. Although if it was one way I wonder if it would suck oil into to the throttle body? I would like to do the canister delete because I see the benefit of not having the hesitant low end throttle and stall from time to time.
hasenpfeffer
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Huh? There are no hoses that connect the crankcase to the canister. The crankcase hose on the right side of the engine should be going to the airbox.
The canister hoses are as follows: hose from fuel tank to canister, from canister to valve, from valve to throttle body. There is 1 additional hose from the bottom of the canister that does not connect to anything and should be shoved in front of the engine near the starter.
Riding Again
Husqvarna
AA Class
Ok sorry for the confusion I was changing my oil at 11pm last night and then read this article and got confused with the lines then. Thank you for the clarity.
Riding Again
Husqvarna
AA Class
Just did the canister removal and taking off the plastics was more time consuming than any thing else. Thanks for all the great info!
Allen
Husqvarna
AA Class
Did the removal today. Everything went well and the hiccup in the throttle is completely gone. I could not even get it to mis when I tried. Really happy that I got rid of that can because it seemed to be having a negative impact on the bike.
Pretty much followed HighFives writeup. I shoved a tire plug in the end of the hose that goes to the throttle body - and then put a vacuum cap on top of that. I feel like it could implode a bit because of the vacuum and still leak with just the cap.
Also installed a Ricochet skid plate and very happy with it so far.
Pretty much followed HighFives writeup. I shoved a tire plug in the end of the hose that goes to the throttle body - and then put a vacuum cap on top of that. I feel like it could implode a bit because of the vacuum and still leak with just the cap.
Also installed a Ricochet skid plate and very happy with it so far.
Attachments
Allen
Husqvarna
AA Class
The hiccup is about 90% gone. I am still going to do the temp mod - and I think that will fix it
kjackbrown
Keep on keepin on.
Temp mod?
X2?
Still trying to wrap my head round the hot running/overheat on these bikes. Is it a two fold problem, i.e faulty thermostats as i have read somewhere disclosed by the factory? Or the extremely lean running condition, or possibly both? Be interested to know has anyone had a thermostat replaced and noticed an improvement in operating temp? Or and also a BP or Wuka and wether they experience cooler operating temps. Especially registered around the header pipe. I did a 400 miler on sat temps in the high 90's and my textile pants had a pretty massive hole just below the left knee by the time i got home.
Ignaciob
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I did the Canisterectomy last night and wasn't too bad. I'd pulled off plastic once before so it was a slight stretch past those skills to add loosening the radiator and futzing around with two hose lines. It also let me look for closely at fabbing up my own radiator protector without interfering with a very close fitting Terra fender.
Several additional notes I'd add to the process is that I *think* the vacuum plug you want is the next size up from 5/16". I used a 3/8" plug from a $6 box I bought from my local mega type auto parts store (our region calls them O'Reillys these days).
I opted to put a small inline filter in the Fuel Tank Vent Line and did my best to eyeball where to cut the hose. It fit nicely in the little spot below the tank area and down south towards the front sprocket. However, putting the seat back on I found that one of the bracket lips that mates with the motorcycle body interferes a bit and makes putting the seat back on a bit more tricky. I may have to invest in a new 2 foot section of hose and reposition the filter...a minor issue.
A quick ride around the block and morning cruise to work and I didn't really notice any change in much.....other than the bike now being a rocket because of the dramatic weight loss.
Not really.
I weighed the canister and hardware and came up with 15 ounces of stuff....so a very small diet for our cruiserweight bikes.
The main reason I did this is the bike is forming a dead spot at about 3500 RPM under constant light street cruising load...it didn't change that. I'll probably be posting elsewhere on it in the near future....I think it's another issue...possibly a TPS going flaky.
Thanks HighFive for the well done procedure and pictures....it made for a productive Tuesday evening in the garage.
Several additional notes I'd add to the process is that I *think* the vacuum plug you want is the next size up from 5/16". I used a 3/8" plug from a $6 box I bought from my local mega type auto parts store (our region calls them O'Reillys these days).
I opted to put a small inline filter in the Fuel Tank Vent Line and did my best to eyeball where to cut the hose. It fit nicely in the little spot below the tank area and down south towards the front sprocket. However, putting the seat back on I found that one of the bracket lips that mates with the motorcycle body interferes a bit and makes putting the seat back on a bit more tricky. I may have to invest in a new 2 foot section of hose and reposition the filter...a minor issue.
A quick ride around the block and morning cruise to work and I didn't really notice any change in much.....other than the bike now being a rocket because of the dramatic weight loss.
Not really.
I weighed the canister and hardware and came up with 15 ounces of stuff....so a very small diet for our cruiserweight bikes.The main reason I did this is the bike is forming a dead spot at about 3500 RPM under constant light street cruising load...it didn't change that. I'll probably be posting elsewhere on it in the near future....I think it's another issue...possibly a TPS going flaky.
Thanks HighFive for the well done procedure and pictures....it made for a productive Tuesday evening in the garage.
bluegopher
Husqvarna
AA Class
This is interesting to hear from another rider. I too have a "dead spot" slightly north of 3k after removing the canister, having it mossed and installing the Wuka. After each update or mod performed it seemed that the dead spot would decrease or almost disappear but then return. It seems to be back for good now and I'm just learning to live with it.
mitchell205
Husqvarna
B Class
Did the canister removal today ... Didn't have to remove anything or loosen the radiator .. I did it all with bike intact.... I then put my modded temp sensor in so I took the left pannel off while off I put a vacuum plug on the brass vent elbow in the throttle body.... If you cap the hose on the other side and leave that s shaped hose attached to the throttle body you shouldn't have to remove any body panels ....
hikewithmike
Husqvarna
B Class
Thanks HighFive for the great write up on ADV. I followed that pretty much to the letter, and after a short back and forth to the Chiro I noticed a few things.
1. Throttle is more responsive and seems less likely to stall when taking off from a stop.
2. While the idle is smoother, but seems to have a mind of its own when I roll of the throttle. For example, I come to a stop and close the throttle, but the the engline takes a bit longer to idle down. Weird.
3. Check engine light is on. Thoughts on how to clear that?
4. The dead spot around 3000-3500 is more pronounced, mainly when rolling of the throttle. Maybe this will get better with time? Not sure how to fix this.
The only other mods I have done have been a skid plate and heated grips.
1. Throttle is more responsive and seems less likely to stall when taking off from a stop.
2. While the idle is smoother, but seems to have a mind of its own when I roll of the throttle. For example, I come to a stop and close the throttle, but the the engline takes a bit longer to idle down. Weird.
3. Check engine light is on. Thoughts on how to clear that?
4. The dead spot around 3000-3500 is more pronounced, mainly when rolling of the throttle. Maybe this will get better with time? Not sure how to fix this.
The only other mods I have done have been a skid plate and heated grips.
Jon Knutson
Husqvarna
A Class
I'm going to be moving back to the US in a couple years and I'm planing to bring my Terra that I bought in the UK. Anyone know if I will need one of these cans to pass emissions to get a US title?