• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Finally Joined The Fold - New Te630. Need Setup Advise

I'd agree. Just to be clear I wasn't advocating that anyone run the bike w/out first doing the p/u...if fact I wouldn't and didn't (I had it installed before the bike was picked up.)

My point was to tell Kev to check w/ the dealer he'd be using (if there were to be a need for warranty work), as the dealer I spoke with (who is not who I bought the bike from) said they would not honor the warranty if anyone other than the selling dealer installed it. I'm sure that response varies from dealer to dealer, and again I am just throwing it out there so that he does not end up in a pickle in the future.
 
...You do have to set the idle back down, the adjuster is a springloaded screw on the right side of the carb (TBI unit?) right behind the front edge of the airbox housing. Easy to get to with a 8mm open end wrench. I was just guessing that was idle, sure enough. Set the tack to display rpms and set it for 1650-1750...
Click to expand...

This the idle screw? (lower left)...

TEthrottleBody08.jpg
 
You drank the red koolaid and now you are like me......glad you got the big one, I think that's the one to get. You can still singletrack on your other bike. I am going to RMAR, truckin' the 450 up there, hope I live thru it!
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
You drank the red koolaid and now you are like me......glad you got the big one, I think that's the one to get. You can still singletrack on your other bike. I am going to RMAR, truckin' the 450 up there, hope I live thru it!
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Hah! There's AustinJake! Hey, what's RMAR???

Yup. Husky has come a long way in a few short years. The TE was way too good of a deal to pass up. And with BMW financing payments are like going out to dinner once a month. My wife is such a good sport! :banana:

I was looking thru the huge TE630 thread on ADVrider and saw posts I made last year about the bike back when it was at 30 pages. Before they had really even come out for sale yet. "Big Trailie" I guess is a good description. I was interested then for a number of reasons, new design, EFI, 6speed, longer maintenance intervals, etc...and for those reasons still, I bought the bike.

I had to go thru a lot of soul searching about what kind of riding I really wanted to do. I knew I wanted a plate and to be able to ride offroad and there's just no way I can get a plate for my KTM. Plus a 250 just doesn't make a very good dualsport, it's turning it's guts out at 60mph. The Versys just wasn't ever going to be that bike either, it's really a road bike, much as I love it for that.

I almost bought a 450EXC last October. Got all signed up and everything. Was a couple grand more than I just spent, and really more than I wanted to spend then or now. It was going to replace my 250xcfw. But gee, another 15-20lbs for my trailbike did not excite me either. Really, ten grand for a dirtbike??? I just couldn't come to terms with that. I came really close to getting a TE310 to replace the KTM as well. I really wanted a plated bike; I kept coming back to that same thought, over and over.

My best riding buddy and I were discussing all the bikes and he said I was nuts to sell my KTM. It's a perfect trail bike, it's all setup, I just put a new piston and rings in it, had the suspension done. I don't have a lot of money in it, plus a new one would just get scratched and beat up and break off the lights anyway. And none of the people I trail ride with are plated, and niether is my son's dirtbike. He said just get yourself a good dualsport and keep the KTM for desert campouts and tight single track - the kind of riding we've been doing for years.

So, what kind of dualsport? DR, KLR, KLX, WR, DRZ? Or TE, EXC, GS, etc.? I knew I didn't want a racing four stroke for a dualsport - too much hassle, especially the 70-100 hour engine rebuild interval. That's fine for a dirtbike where you go out for a weekend and put 4-5 hours on it, but not for a dualsport that might get 100-300 mile rides on it every time you take it out. And droning on a hiway with a RFS seems like such a waste, and they're horrible at it anyway. And I didn't want a 450lb dirtbike - forget that, I'm way too old for that!

I about fell off my chair when they dropped the price on the 630. It went from an "interesting motorcycle" to a "Gotta get me one of those, now!"

So, super single track weapon it's not, didn't need that. Cross country desert and fireroads master? Yes! Got just the tool I needed. :thumbsup:
 
I just looked at the USB key. I thought it was a service manual. It's just the dam owners manual in umpteen different languages just like the printed one. WORTHLESS!!

Where do we get a shop manual for these bikes?
 
Race Sag????

Okay, pulled off the side cover to back off the pre-comp on the rear spring. Yup, way to much.
How much sag do I want????

I backed off to about an inch static, about 4" with rider weight. What are we shooting for?
 
CJBROWN said:
Race Sag????

Okay, pulled off the side cover to back off the pre-comp on the rear spring. Yup, way to much.
How much sag do I want????

I backed off to about an inch static, about 4" with rider weight. What are we shooting for?
Click to expand...

The shop manual says to start at 90mm from what I remember. I think I backed mine off to about ~95-100mm.

JTemple has the shop manual on his server and was generous enough to offer it to fellow Husky riders.
 
Fast1 said:
The shop manual says to start at 90mm from what I remember. I think I backed mine off to about ~95-100mm.

JTemple has the shop manual on his server and was generous enough to offer it to fellow Husky riders.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That's where I set it as a wild guess. ;)
I had to go online for a mm to inch conversion though, that's 3-1/2 to 4". I'm gonna be at about 3-3/4 with gear and a backpack.
Definitely feels much better there. Set all the damping adjusters too, they were all f'd up.
I'm surprised the thing has oil in it. Tires were about 40lbs. Chain is lubed...tons of it all over.
Fork settings were right. What, no comp and pre-load adjust for them? Did they cheap out on the front?

Got some pics...will post later.
 
Did you buy it in the parking lot where they sell steaks and stereos out of the back of the truck?

Sounds like no setup from dealer.
 
glangston said:
Did you buy it in the parking lot where they sell steaks and stereos out of the back of the truck?

Sounds like no setup from dealer.
Click to expand...

I dunno, I don't think any hourly dealer tech is going to give the same kind of attention that I would in setting up a bike. I really don't fault them, I just go through them front to back and touch every piece and component, wire ties, routing...details man. You know they take them out of the crate and put them together and put them on the floor. I turned the bars up to zero, set perches, brake lever, set sag and damper settings, and all the little power up mods before I even try to ride the thing anywhere. Plus it really gives you a chance to get to know what's there anyway.
 
I picked up my TE630 today and went for a brief 18 mile or jaunt on surface streets. It did stall a couple of times at stop lights, and I can see how it feels like it is being choked with the current California configuration. Otherwise I am really stoked with the ride. Very smooth on the roads for a thumper! The dealer threw in the PU kit which was nice. The only reservation I have is that he mentioned the fuel tank has to be removed to get to the resistor. I don't remember reading about this, I thought it was accessible by removing the seat? His suggestion for the hose coming out of the engine block was to cut it short and use a golf tee in it. Then use a zip tie to collapse the hose around it. Uh, right. I am thinking I am going to look for an indy mechanic up here in SB to help me get this thing on right. I appreciate the info from everyone here, this has been a great resource so far.
 
A golf tee and a clamp, eh? And who's talking about selling steaks and stereos??? :lol:

Yes, you have to lift the tank to get to the sensor plug, unplug it and plug in the resistor module. Tank comes off really easy. Screw in the tank lobe petcocks and remove the fuel hose on the left side, pull it through to the right side so it's out of the way. Once the seat is off and the side panels, remove the bolt on the front top of the tank, the '630' emblems pop out and then you remove the bolts under them that are threaded into the rad mounts. Then the tank can be lifted off enough to set it off to the right side without disconnecting any of the fuel pump hoses or wires. Everything is easy to get to then.

The sensor can then be removed with a 22mm box end wrench and the blank plug screwed in. I used anti sieze compound, a copper washer, and then saftety wired it to the closest heat shield mount to make sure it doesn't vibrate loose and fall out:

DSC04351.jpg


Tuck all the wires in and put a new ziptie on them, nice and tidy. That's all there is to it.

For the canister, pull the hoses and remove it. The brass vacuum nipple on the intake plenum has a slot for a screwdriver, just unscrew it. I found a 4 or 5mm fine thread cap screw that fit right in there. The seal ring for the brass piece was just plastic and it was junk so I didn't re-use it. A fiber sealing washer would have been nice but I didn't have one that small so I used blue locktite and snugged it up. Doubt it will ever get removed anyway:

DSC04350.jpg


For the tank vent I cut the hose right about where it passes through the frame and reinserted the check valve, then ran one of the leftover hoses from the canister plumbing up and into the stem tube. It's out of the way, protected from dirt and debris, and easy to remove should the tank need to come off:

DSC04340.jpg


DSC04341.jpg


Picked up a Cycra Pro-Bend bar pack and installed the guards. They are my favorite ones, have them on my other bikes. Easy install, fit really well, have replacable end caps, and are hell for stout. Safety wired the grips and set the perches and switches to suit:

DSC04346.jpg


DSC04347.jpg


When I was out to pickup my bike the legendary offroader Malcolm Smith himself was at the store so I got his autograph:

DSC04339.jpg


This one runs like a top. No stalls, no surges, nothing. Just purrs like a kitten. I have a 14T counter coming tomorrow in the mail.

DSC04349.jpg


DSC04338.jpg
 
14T counter came today. Easy install. I thought I read somewhere somebody said you gotta drop the clutch slave to remove the front sprocket - not! Comes right off. And no nut to un-torque, just remove the circlips and it comes right off.

Test ride shows marked improvement. Still seems a bit tall but time will tell. Definitely a must-do for these. Ran it up to 65 and it was still just loafing along.

Ground clearance isn't much on these so my portable lift for the dirtbikes is a bitch. And this thing is heavy. I ran the front wheel up on a couple of 2x's so I could get my stand under the frame, then bent the lift handle trying to get it up in the air. Finally worked, but I gotta get a steel lift stand that has an adjustable starting height.

Have a whole 42 miles now. Whoohoo - this bike is just plain fun!

EDIT: Took one of the rear sprocket nuts off and it was locktited so I figure I'm good to go there. Footpeg mounts weren't that tight though so they got blue locktite and re-torqued.
 
Awesome!

Pictures and descriptions like the ones you took are exactly what a noob like me needs to do these kind of mods!

Not that the instructions from any other company would be any different, but I need a little more info than "remove the stock exhaust" like they said in step 1 to install my leo vince system!

Is there a way to take the whole tank off? It all is straightforward to me except for that one connection that connects in the middle/underside of the tank right next to where that electrical connection is (which I assume is related to the fuel gauge).

Oh yeah, the malcom smith signature is sweet!
 
Rapid Dog said:
Another really good deal as far as the seat is concerned is Seat Concepts (http://seatconcepts.art.officelive.com/aboutus.aspx) in SoCal.
They do real nice work and have choices in height, etc. Very affordable and quick turnaround e (tell 'em Rapid Dog in Acton sent ya!)

img_1633.jpg
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OK -- tempted by that seat...key question: Is it narrow enough up front to ride the tank on the fast corners, and to stand up?

What I'm hoping is that it's fat in the back for highway cruising, but narrow up front for proper dirt-bike activities...???
 
rocko said:
Awesome!

Pictures and descriptions like the ones you took are exactly what a noob like me needs to do these kind of mods!

Not that the instructions from any other company would be any different, but I need a little more info than "remove the stock exhaust" like they said in step 1 to install my leo vince system!

Is there a way to take the whole tank off? It all is straightforward to me except for that one connection that connects in the middle/underside of the tank right next to where that electrical connection is (which I assume is related to the fuel gauge).

Oh yeah, the malcom smith signature is sweet!
Click to expand...

Rocko download the shop manual. Even the removal of the tank has a picture for every step :D
 
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