• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Keihin vs. Mikuni for 150

krieg said:
FWIW, if you grind the outlet spigot properly, you don't have to grind the knob.
Click to expand...

It worked fine without grinding the knob, but I wanted a little extra clearence.... Jimi told me to do it.
oldman.gif
 
They just emailed me with a very plausible explanation of the issue. They also sent me a new screw for free. I'll post a follow-up report with their explanation after I get the new screw and test it out.
 
Vinduro said:
Seems there is no such thing as a 32 pilot for the PWK . 35 is the smallest. I really don't want to hurt the 1/4 - 1/2 throttle range as it seems good. I want to lean out the 0 - 1/4 range. Should I be thinking about a 6.5 slide ? I keep finding that the bike wants more air screw and it is so far turned out 3 turns. It seems to like 4 better. I want it in the 1.5 to 2.5 range. I am looking for a jet or situation that will give me highest idle in that range. Suggestions ? I don't have a 6.5 slide and really don't want to pay KTMs price for one.
Click to expand...

You may want to try the next richest needle, then drop it down. My KTM guru said the NOZ needles are short and need to be run deep. When I asked for a smaller pilot, he said I needed to lower the needle as it was probably trying to pull off of the main jet at low rpm.
I am going to try lowering my NOZF then go up to a 40-45 pilot, but mine is a 125.
GP
 
Let me know how it works. I just ordered a NOZH needle. I believe that is one step richer than a NOZI. I will install in the #2 postiion. OH, ran a muddy / technical H/S this weekend and won my class by 1min29sec. LOVE THE BIKE. AND I got 19mpg.
 
My bike is running really well so I should leave it alone but of course I am not.

Currently my TMXX is at RB Designs for the divider plate treatment. He is going to try to create a Mikuni mixture screw also.

I have Walts power valves which I am doing some final grinding on to get them .5mm from the piston. They look like they are going to seal up really well.

By next weekend I should be ready to test it all. I think it is really going to have a strong yank off the bottom.

Oh, I looked at my needle and it is the chy16-61. I think a chy 17 is half a clip richer, which would be good. But what about the "61" part? It is richer then a 62 but is that true across the entire throttle range or mainly at a certain place? With the Keihin I had the JD spreadsheet to figure this stuff out but I am lost on the Mikuni needles.
 
Mark,

The 61 is one step richer on the bottom(top section of the needle). I applaud you setting your pv gap to .5mm. I am not that brave and set my own set to .030" or .75mm and that is tight. As you lower them towards the cylinder it does lower the bottom edge a little so you might check the gap between the bottom and the top of the exhaust port. Set to 6.0 mm if you can.
 
NWRider if you don't mind let us/me know how the RB carb works out. I may send mine to him for my 144. Thanks, John
 
Walt - I am not an expert so I will be careful on the powervalve. I will probably get them to where my .75mm wire will rub everywhere, then I will make sure a .5mm one can clear all surfaces. So it will be .5 to .75 when I am done. RB told me .5 is fine but I do not really trust my measuring ability so I will probably not be that brave. I will keep an eye on the exhaust port height.

John - I will review the carb mods for sure.
 
BTW - I am also putting a fresh ring in just becuase it was cheap. Does anyone know the correct ring gap for the oem 144?
 
Mark,

Anything over .010" is good. Husky specs this at .017" and says to replace at .026". Seems like a lot to start with so I don't take them out that far. I think you could actually go as low as .009" but I have yet to have a 58mm ring show up with that tight an end gap. The first set of valves I ground, I gave the eyeball test for initial gap to test. Measured later and I had them at .018" and it scared me. I just don't have a feel for how much they are going to expand at 600 degrees F. If RB says .5mm is good then I believe him and .018" was ok, but I am just not that confident in my own measuring capabilities in that tight space on a curve.
 
Thanks Wally. I was trying to get some good valve measuring tips from RB. He does it by sight but my eyes are not nearly that well calibrated.
 
I still have had my best luck by flattening a piece of solder on the end to the desired measurement. That way it is easy to bend and get in there. I set the solder to .035" and work from there. I just measured a set of new valves on a new OEM 144 cylinder and the gap is at .060".
 
Did you ever measure where the stock valves are in the stock cylinder when they hit the stops? It looks really tight to me but of couse they do not get close to the stops once assembled with the collars.

I'll try the solder.
 
NWRider said:
My bike is running really well so I should leave it alone but of course I am not.

Currently my TMXX is at RB Designs for the divider plate treatment. He is going to try to create a Mikuni mixture screw also.

I have Walts power valves which I am doing some final grinding on to get them .5mm from the piston. They look like they are going to seal up really well.

By next weekend I should be ready to test it all. I think it is really going to have a strong yank off the bottom.

Oh, I looked at my needle and it is the chy16-61. I think a chy 17 is half a clip richer, which would be good. But what about the "61" part? It is richer then a 62 but is that true across the entire throttle range or mainly at a certain place? With the Keihin I had the JD spreadsheet to figure this stuff out but I am lost on the Mikuni needles.
Click to expand...

You'll like the carb divider in the TMXX, Great low end response reminds me of the 36PWK pull.
 
So far the NOZH (#2 position) feels good. National Enduro in 2 weeks.
OH, I have an issue with my IMS 2.8gal tank. One of the shroud screw inserts is spinning in the tank and I can't remove the screw. Wonder what kind of warrenty they have ?
 
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