My '84 500AE MX Project

[Michel Dufayard]

Need to find a spring maker in England !
I've make made springs with wire diam 9.5 or 10 instead of 8.5.

 

[Motosportz]

my 83 XC500 felt sloppy loose in the rear as well but worked very good when riding.

 

[grouty]

If you do find you need springs after you have ridden it for a while, have a chat with Robin Packham at Falcon Shocks. he will sort the right springs for you. Even better if you load the bike up and take it to him in Dorset.

 

[SteveJ]

Sorry for the typo, meant to say the replacements measure .370 not .970 (now that would be stiff ), anyway, I got them from Husqvarna-parts.com, they are specified as 9mm wire, ITC Ohlins Progressive. I think the extra .010 I measure is due to the coating. You might want to check with Andy at HVA-Factory, one of the sponsors here, don't see them on his website though.

 

[darren7878]

I had problems with the rear end on my 250s when using them for MX. Too soft. I swapped to the uprated 8.5 springs from Ohlins but you need these:

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catalog/item/3736874/3443092.htm

9mm progressive also buy the preloading kit so you can adjust the springs when they are on the bike.

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catalog/item/3736874/7352492.htm

Think this is the fastest way to fix your rear end.

 

[Rossik]

I had problems with the rear end on my 250s when using them for MX. Too soft. I swapped to the uprated 8.5 springs from Ohlins but you need these:

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catalog/item/3736874/3443092.htm

9mm progressive also buy the preloading kit so you can adjust the springs when they are on the bike.

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catalog/item/3736874/7352492.htm

Think this is the fastest way to fix your rear end.

Those adjustable spring retainers look the business - I remember having them on older dirt bikes and they are very easy to use for quick adjustment changes for various track conditions, thanks for pointing them out, I will definitely order a pair.

 

[darren7878]

Those adjustable spring retainers look the business - I remember having them on older dirt bikes and they are very easy to use for quick adjustment changes for various track conditions, thanks for pointing them out, I will definitely order a

Def worth the effort.

 

[Rossik]

slightly disheartened this evening......after deciding today was the day the motor would go back into the frame, I totally underestimated the stress that getting the rear engine mount/swingarm bolt setup properly installed would cause.

And it defeated me...........somehow the gap in the swingarm where the bolt goes through is now slightly narrower than the end of the engine. So I thought that I could use the rear axle bolt to try to pull the rear of the swingarm closer in an effort to spread the other end enough for the engine to fit but it didn't work.............or at least maybe I didn't tighten the axle bolt enough

Either way, I wasn't successful and am now contemplating taking it to someone who has a proper workshop (and skills) to finish the engine installation...............why are these things so difficult

 

[grouty]

Take a trip trip B&Q and buy a plastic friction clamp. They work on internal or external applications.
Turn the jaws the other way round and they will spread the arm enough to fit the motor. I use this on my 390WR 6 speed every time I put the motor back in. Makes my life easy and stops me throwing things around the workshop.

 

[Rossik]

Take a trip trip B&Q and buy a plastic friction clamp. They work on internal or external applications.
Turn the jaws the other way round and they will spread the arm enough to fit the motor. I use this on my 390WR 6 speed every time I put the motor back in. Makes my life easy and stops me throwing things around the workshop.

Oh yeah man, I tell ya, I was so deflated, and I can't repeat some of the things I said )

I'm an IT guy and though I've pulled apart & rebuilt dirt bikes before, prior to this 500 auto, the last one was around 1979......and I must say that these days I'm more inclined to pay experts to do what they do best.

But then I thought 'how difficult can it be', I mean, this is a bike that is basically the same as the ones I worked on back in last century and if I did it then I can do it now. Especially simple 2 strokers........

Luckily, when I hit a wall (not literally), all I need is a small personal bitch session (to get the frustration out) and the Cafe Husky forum ))

Good man Grouty - thanks, I'll get myself one of those today and will try again later in the week[/quote]

 

[stormer254]

I use a suitable cut piece of wood jammed in to spread the gap but there again I am not to bothered about the paint finish as Grouty will testify!

 

[dartyppyt]

Go get one of them clamps and become the Rossiknator!

 

[justintendo]

in my best hanz and franz voice..."we going to clamp...you down!"

 

[Rossik]

Hahahaha, you guys are crazy ))

 

[dartyppyt]

Chrome the swing arm then everything gets tighter!

 

[Rossik]

ok so thanks to the B&Q clamps, I now have the swingarm in and it fits like a glove

Can anyone recommend a good chain ? Size, type and brand please, thanks guys !

 

[justintendo]

i have always ran tsubaki chains, they are a top supplier of industrial chains and supply many oe timing chains. i like oring so i run their omega line. there are many good choices, just dont cheap out and you should get a decent one.

 

[wrx]

Regina,Tsubaki, RK, EK,or DID. all quality units. it all depends on how much Jing you want to spend.

 

[wrx]

remember it's a big bore auto and it will eat chains and sprockets. as Justintendo said dont' cheap out.

 

[justintendo]

i would also suggest staying away from aluminum as well, steel is cheaper and will last much longer. alum is for 125 bikes in my honest opinion.