• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New Project - 1986 WR400

suprize said:
there are guys that sort the motosplats out so they should be able to tell you the specs. I have seen their name on here but no idea where.. the lights arnt bright...
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Great idea. I did a quick internet search and found a couple of companies that rebuild and service Motoplats.
 
Gearbox oil - I found one source that says 1.4 liters is the correct amount. Would someone please verify if this is correct?
 
Isn't the rule of thumb we fill the gear box to the bottom of the angle on the neck(filler)? Where the vertical on the clutch cover meets the angle of the filler neck?
 
While I'm at it, two more questions:

Does your Mikuni have this opening fully exposed? Perhaps seal it off to be safe (??)
Carb-hole.jpg


Also, I purchased the two-piece intake manifold. When I mounted it I found that it was considerable longer than the stock piece. Phillip at Husqvarna-parts said some space can be gained by readjusting the motor mounts – I haven't tried this yet. The other option, perhaps in conjunction, is to cut down the rubber from the carb side. I'm hesitant to do that. Anyone else out there who has swapped out to the two piece manifold, how did you make it work?
Intake-Boot.jpg


Thanks!
 
Bigbill said:
Isn't the rule of thumb we fill the gear box to the bottom of the angle on the neck(filler)? Where the vertical on the clutch cover meets the angle of the filler neck?
Click to expand...
the angle would be max fill..on the air cooled cover theres two lines which are the min/max marks.
 
MotoFo said:
While I'm at it, two more questions:

Does your Mikuni have this opening fully exposed? Perhaps seal it off to be safe (??)
Carb-hole.jpg


Also, I purchased the two-piece intake manifold. When I mounted it I found that it was considerable longer than the stock piece. Phillip at Husqvarna-parts said some space can be gained by readjusting the motor mounts – I haven't tried this yet. The other option, perhaps in conjunction, is to cut down the rubber from the carb side. I'm hesitant to do that. Anyone else out there who has swapped out to the two piece manifold, how did you make it work?
Intake-Boot.jpg


Thanks!
Click to expand...

this is an issue on the big bore ones, the 250 bikes it fits perfect. ive thought about shaving the intake a bit and cutting/welding the reed surface to gain a bit of room. you can leave it like you have it if you have the clamp in the right place. ive seen the airbox boot cut too
 
the airbox boot/ flange is from an xc/cr model. they came with a tm flatslide carb. the carb body length is different between tm/vm carbs.
 
Interesting. I have an 85 cr and an 85 Xc, both 500s, and both are 40mm roundslide vm. Also have an 87 250wr and an 87 430xc and both have a round slide. I've never seen a flat slide on any of the bikes I've had but I've also never had a 86 400. Not doubting you, Just asking to further educate myself on the swede bikes.
 
MotoFo said:
While I'm at it, two more questions:

Does your Mikuni have this opening fully exposed? Perhaps seal it off to be safe (??)
Carb-hole.jpg


Also, I purchased the two-piece intake manifold. When I mounted it I found that it was considerable longer than the stock piece. Phillip at Husqvarna-parts said some space can be gained by readjusting the motor mounts – I haven't tried this yet. The other option, perhaps in conjunction, is to cut down the rubber from the carb side. I'm hesitant to do that. Anyone else out there who has swapped out to the two piece manifold, how did you make it work?
Intake-Boot.jpg


Thanks!
Click to expand...



that intake is two piece?
it looks long, my two piece has a near flat about 10mm base and a short adapter, fits perfect
actually 2 of them, one Husky OEM and one UpTite both fit perfect
do you have pictures of the parts only?
 
87husky500xc said:
Interesting. I have an 85 cr and an 85 Xc, both 500s, and both are 40mm roundslide vm. Also have an 87 250wr and an 87 430xc and both have a round slide. I've never seen a flat slide on any of the bikes I've had but I've also never had a 86 400. Not doubting you, Just asking to further educate myself on the swede bikes.
Click to expand...

I've got an 86 XC250, or most of one, Carb, or at least the parts of it that I have, flat side.
Carb in pictures, and in my 86 WR400 both Roundslide.
Parts diagram shows the flatside in the /86 240, 250 CR, XC, everything else roundside.
The 1985 parts diagram also shows the 250 with a flat side.

As for achieving a better fit, you could gain a few mils, and even change the angle a little on the aluminum base of the two piece intake by placing a sheet of emory paper on a flat surface and carefully sanding some thickness out of the base (it's certainly over-machined enough to allow for some reduction in thickness, you will burn through the anodizing if that bugs you). Just make sure that the surface you use is absolutely flat to avoid sanding in imperfections. You can change the angle by consistently applying pressure to one side during the process (while keeping it flat on the paper). You may be able to do both ends of the aluminum piece, the smaller piece will be a bit more difficult. That approach is, of course, at your own risk. Just don't do too much at a time, consistently check it out, and you shouldn't make any errors that can't be fixed with a little silicone.

Otherwise, you appear to have shoe-horned in the carb, which is what I did. it's rough on the air filter boot, but doesn't stick so far into the filter box that it restricts airflow at all. Air box and frame will wear on each other a little.
 
MotoFo said:
While I'm at it, two more questions:

Does your Mikuni have this opening fully exposed? Perhaps seal it off to be safe (??)
Carb-hole.jpg


Also, I purchased the two-piece intake manifold. When I mounted it I found that it was considerable longer than the stock piece. Phillip at Husqvarna-parts said some space can be gained by readjusting the motor mounts – I haven't tried this yet. The other option, perhaps in conjunction, is to cut down the rubber from the carb side. I'm hesitant to do that. Anyone else out there who has swapped out to the two piece manifold, how did you make it work?
Intake-Boot.jpg


Thanks!
Click to expand...

I GOT A PLATE SOLD BY HALLS THAT USES THE OLDER STYLE TWO BOLT MIKUNI RUBBER BOOT FIT AND WORKED PERFECTLY I THINK THEY HAVE THEM MADE LOCALLY
 
is that a 38mm or 40mm carb?
also, does your intake manifold cant to the rh side? this is needed on the single shocks, the dual shock one is straight.
 
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