• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

One hole too many

almost uses the case...but what is important is the relative position of the pawl at rest. 1 spline to far and it causes a nasty back grab when the motor stops. I assume its when it back rotates. its ugly.
 
suprize said:
...but what is important is the relative position of the pawl at rest. 1 spline to far and it causes a nasty back grab when the motor stops. I assume its when it back rotates. its ugly.
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Well what I'm seeing on mine, is with the kicker shaft in it's "home" position the pawl is held in against the spring holder. See below: Look right?
 

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Brad-in-STL said:
If I'm measuring right (ID to end of tooth?) it's 9.08 mm. If that's not what you're asking, just let me know and I'll try again.
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I got 9.19 on this one so about .030 diff
what's odd is all the primary idler gears are the same, but there are 2 different gear counts on the back gear
 
Thanks! If you look close you can see the vice-grips holding a trimmed tongue depressor against the inside of the case which is acting as a backing plate for the JB weld. Just removed it tonight and it looks pretty good. Just need to touch it up with a dremel tool to ensure I've got good clearance.
 
I use doubled aluminum foil as a dam when I do casting with JB. Also apply a thin layer film of Vaseline to the JB surface of the foil so it can be removed after setting and not bond foil to the JB Weld
 
I've got a spare side cover, just have to look if it's pre 85 or later, either will work by the way, if your repair
goes south.
 
jimspac said:
Also apply a thin layer film of Vaseline to the JB surface of the foil so it can be removed after setting and not bond foil to the JB Weld
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Good idea on the foil and wax paper. I thought about a release agent like Vaseline, but was concerned that I would get some of it on the cover and ruin my patch effort. That's why I went with wood that could easily be scrapped away.
 
Brad-in-STL said:
Good idea on the foil and wax paper. I thought about a release agent like Vaseline, but was concerned that I would get some of it on the cover and ruin my patch effort. That's why I went with wood that could easily be scrapped away.
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i have been using wax paper on everything i glue and clamp for like 30 years, clean-up is a snap
 
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And if you look even closer you'll see that I took jo360's advise because I liked the idea... thanks jo!

jo360 said:
One thing i did was grind back the pawl plate on the inside of the clutch cover about 10mm so it engages the mechanism earlier in the stroke.
Click to expand...
 
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