• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

One hole too many

So the one you have won't work, right premo?

the kick ratio seems to have changed but all 430's, 400's and 500's used this in 86
the primary kick idler is always the same part number, so why would it not work, in the fiche they are the same all years 250-500
the outer (primary) count matches yours, seems you have an odd one, same as the early CR500
anyone want to chime in on this, anyone seen an issue here??
 
IMG_2104.JPG

Aside from the extra stress on the kicker spring holder, when stopping forward movement of the kicker... any other reason I wouldn't want to index the kicker one tooth off as shown above? I'm trying to avoid another hole in the recently fixed side cover and will still glue on a rubber pad - just curious.

Sorry if this as been beaten to death previously...
 
then secure the gear from behind with your hand and advance the lever a notch on the outside to see if it gets closer to the stop
 
My magnesium cover was worse off than that. The seal pocket did not exist. I filled the pocket with JB Weld and left a core so the impellor shaft was back loaded so the machinist could pick up the shaft to center the bore for the seal. You could fix your's with JB Weld. The trick would be establishing the oring groove. I would use JB Weld as until it kicks over, you can carve the groove . You can also touch up by filling low areas. The important part of using JB Weld is that if you break the gloss, it will absorb liquid. Any JB gloss that is broken needs to be sealed with 5 minute epoxy. You need that work time to make sure you have good saturation.

I decided to use premix coolant just to make that there is only deionized water in the system. Flush your radiators and hoses before assembling.
 
I did a fancy repair on my first cover that was like cheese...I used high powered araldite but the coolant got under it after it sat over summer so I got an alloooominum one and have had no probs so far...(must look inside soon)
 

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I purchased a brand new Husqvarna LC clutch cover from the husky club from Craig I think three decades ago.
 
by early 85, my 1984.5 LC 240 was stuffed. I jb welded it and fixed it. the local husky dealer went broke soon after so I never got offered the warranty fix...:mad: that was available at the time.
 
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