• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Oval Case Motors

So I am working on the second bikes motor and have some questions. Can the counter weights be welded or are they case hardened? And can i use a right stub from a later 450 in place of the right stub from this motor? Here's some pics. The original is shorter by just a little bit, will the longer 450 stub work in it's place, or do I need to get an Original****************************************:eek:
 

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So I am working on the second bikes motor and have some questions. Can the counter weights be welded or are they case hardened? And can i use a right stub from a later 450 in place of the right stub from this motor? Here's some pics. The original is shorter by just a little bit, will the longer 450 stub work in it's place, or do I need to get an Original :eek:
Anyone know if the counterweights can be welded and if the little longer stub will be a problem? Chris
 
Husky Club Newsletters #35 and #36 have an in-depth discussion regarding ignition stubs. This includes pictures, part numbers, flywheel size, etc. That may at least point you in the right direction. If you need the pages posted, let me know.
 
Thanks guys I'll check those news letters, and i can't imagine no one has welded a counterweight with as many rotten cranks as are found here. Thanks I'll call John in the noon hr.
 
Well I welded the counter weight and spent 2 hrs cleaning it up, flap wheel, med file, 220 grit, 400, 600 and Crokus to finish.:thumbsup: Turned out pretty good and is really hard. All new rod with the fixin's and piston with the fixin's.:applause: I tuned the crank and got it as close as i could, looks like the drive stub is out of round about .0015, so it's still really good by MY standards.:p Got more paint for the engine, seems when i find one i like, they discontinue it!:thinking: May start the assembly soon. Been riding the 1st 360 around the tracks, it's been starting on the first kick and shifting well if you do the long pull and stomp.:cheers: Blew the headlight from who knows when, and still haven't added the tail light or battery mount and battery. :eek: Gonna be fun to ride them with my brother, I'm sure I'll kick his butt!!:lol:
 

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Checked the Husky reports and found no reason not to use the good stub, we'll see if i have an issue with the ignition placement. More pics.
 

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Got it together but not bolted together yet, I'm going to replace the bolts, the socket heads are pretty worn out.
 

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Where did you get the rims?:thinking: And can you post some close ups like the rock plate and the exhaust mounting and where did you get the muffler!:love:

I got the rims from Matt down at Speed and Sport. I sent my originals down with hubs. The back was a match but there’s really no replacement for that chrome valanced Raedelli up front so I just had him match the rear. Everything came back perfect. New brakes, bearings, seals, and they polished that front hub assembly to perfection. I have since found a valanced raedelli wheel, unused still in original packaging. Hours and hours of eBay. Btw that’s where the long silencer came from.
 
Got some sanding done today, the left cover turned out good and there is some porosity on the right cover where Garret welded a crack next to the piece that was missing that he rebuilt. Blasted them and they virtually disappeared! I won't tell if you won't!! More pics
 

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Even more!
 

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After the rebuild, i have not been able to get the lights to work. Today I chased all the wires to the electrical drawing and it all pans out. But still no Lights, I had them before i took the bike apart. Is there something you guys have seen that would be the same? What is the voltage from the ignition/magnito? I get 12vac from the yellow and green wires from the ignition coils on rev, shouldn't that be DC? I checked with the battery switch in battery and direct, all is correct, what am i missing??
 
Did the 1971 cross have an 8 speed trans? Or only the sportsman in 71? Trying to figure out the best way to use the 2 37xxxx motors. Been asking everyone if they have an SI frame, if I can use an MI that would help, but weren't the MI frames welded solid? Any in is welcome. Chris

I have an SI frame for sale. If you still need one, PM me.
Rosco
July 2020
 
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