Dangermouse449
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I do not think Zip-ty or tinken is ever misleading anyone. The way I made my bike work with the factory throttle body setup was to follow TINKENS guidelines. I had NO MORE FLAMEOUTS!
In the dirt several rides with no stalls or issues. This was with fmf open powercore 4 and a very vented airbox!
I did race map 2, power commander and auto tuner and the bike worked great! As it was suggested it would. I could have rode like that forever it worked fantastically actually with lots of power.
WITHOUT EVER TOUCHING THE ENGINE/THROTTLE BODY.
GREAT IN THE DIRT! I AM A DIRT NOOB AND THE SMOOTHE POWER AND CTS MEANS I COULD TRACTOR UP ANY HILL WITHOUT ANY SKILL. EVERYONE SAID IT WAS "DIAL A RIDE" VERY VERY VERY EASY TO RIDE!
But if you look at the threads I have posted you will see me asking questions about removing the butterfly because when coming out of corners geared up or lazily I would hit the throttle wide open and the bike would not react quickly. First I thought slipping clutch, then I thought torque limiter, but I quickly realized it was the throttle body opening slowly (not good for supermoto where you need snap to clear a jump or increase engine rpm's fast). Then dangermouse posted his thread whilst I had my bike apart which convinced me that my thinking was 100% spot on.
I took the butterfly off and the bike became instantly much much more responsive, and the feeling I had before is gone. This is what the butterfly did for me. Also I believe now I can lower the engine idle slightly without stall on deceleration or with instant blips of the throttle.
Very good for supermoto and solved my lack of engine response problem.
Also the iridium plug is a cheap and very good upgrade. It works and doesn't foul as easily. It is a common thing in the bike world to change the plug. Also the factory plug is quite shrouded due to the 2 strap layout. So I am sure that also helps to propagate a nice flame.
All in all there should be absolutely no resentment to Tinken or zip-ty as they told us how to make it work without removing anything from the bike. Yes this has improved it further, but it was not widely tested here until recently.
Also just because you have a catch can does not make it a breather, if you push enough oil up then the vaccum from the airbox will suck the oil in. When you return to idle or turn off the bike the oil will drain back down. The proper way is to not only have vaccum but also an additional return line so when running very high rpm you do not end up pushing oil up faster than it can return. Also when you drop the bike it has a chance to return to drain before it sucks it into the airbox. (ask me how I know).
Also if you look at tinkens drawing you can see why it is good to relocate the breather from the crank to valve cover. This is good as hopefully there is enough airspace for the return air from the piston to find its way up through the cam chain area instead of going through the torque limiter. It makes sense if you look at it.
I have not, and am not saying anywhere that these above know fixes don't work.
Clearly they do. The information is good info, just that it costs money to do.
There are 5 of us in my family, I have a mortgage, two cars etc etc. Money is important to me.
What I tried to & succeeded in doing was to not have to purchase additional stuff to add to a bike that I was at wits end with.
I did not want to spend money on a bike that I really was considering selling or burning!! (I truthfully hated it that much)
The mods I did removed some parts, yes!
I didn't have to add anything to it, & if it didn't work out I could return it to stock.
The mods were FREE & they worked for me with no side affects.
I now really love the bike, it has NO fueling issues & can be enjoyed as much as it should have from new.