Power Commander V + Autotune install

[danketchpel]

Have this problem on the new 501s. I push the fuel on the maps into the negative at zero and compensate with the accel pump at 2%.

Tinken,

How much negative are you going? Take a look at my fuel map in post #55, I'm at -25.

I never tried something extreme like -50 or -75

I wish there was a way to create a cold start button that applied an adjustable voltage to the idle control valve to open it a bit, a controlled bit. If you can crack that throttle open just a hair for a couple revolutions it does the trick. But man it's hard to duplicate each time.

 

[Tinken]

That's a lot of negative fuel. We used to make a hot start button to fix this issue and may still have one or two in stock. It was a mechanical valve that allows air to pass into the intake manifold for starting when there is too much fuel. Do you guys have a air inlet where the fuel canister used to attach?

 

[danketchpel]

That's a lot of negative fuel. We used to make a hot start button to fix this issue and may still have one or two in stock. It was a mechanical valve that allows air to pass into the intake manifold for starting when there is too much fuel. Do you guys have a air inlet where the fuel canister used to attach?

I'd have to go back to see where an air inlet might be suitably located.

Can you adjust the amount of air "leaked" into the system with your start button?

 

[Tinken]

Yes.

 

[sussurf]

This may sound stupid but why does my Terra like a bit of throttle at cold start? The user manual for my 1050 Sprint suggests the same and this always helps a reluctant cold start on the Trumpy, as well as on the odd occasion I use it on the TR.

 

[nev..]

This may sound stupid but why does my Terra like a bit of throttle at cold start? The user manual for my 1050 Sprint suggests the same and this always helps a reluctant cold start on the Trumpy, as well as on the odd occasion I use it on the TR.

My Terra sometimes will crank won't start from cold. After trying to crank unsuccessfully a couple of times it has started fine with a little bit of throttle. That's only happened maybe 3 or 4 times in 2.5 years and not necessarily only on cold days either. Once was in summer.

 

[MorrisShams]

Can u post your maps please im horrible with this shit

After much playing with different settings I've pretty much stabilized on this setup. Not that it's perfect, but it feels quite good over a broad range of operation. I have the Pod Mod, Screaming Demon twin pipes with "quiet" baffles (not very), and the airbox door removed.

I would like to pick up the mpg a bit more. I've tried leaner settings at cruise but it starts to feel flat. I average about 48 - 50 mpg right now. The speed I ride at on the freeway makes a noticeable difference in mpg. I seem to hit the reserve light at 140 miles like clockwork.

I use a accelerator pump setting of 20% trigger, 15 revs, and 20% fuel adjustment. This made a big difference up in the mid range in terms of response and really added that "brap factor" that big thumpers should have.

Here's my AFR target table. I run the Autotune 100% of the time. I found it works great for idle mixture control but you have to leave the AFR setting steady up a few thousand rpm or it will become a bit unstable as you come to stops. With these settings it's very stable. The 16 values from 3k rpm up to 6k are to quell the popping on the overrun.



Here's the fuel table. There are areas down around idle I manually edit back if I do an update because the updates foul up that region. I spent a fair amount time with low rpm range settings, especially starting as it's tricky to start when it's cold or near cold. I've found it's adding more fuel than needed which is why I have big negative numbers in the cranking rpm range. I've tried a lot of settings and this has produced the best results so far for starting. I believe the real problem is the idle control valve doesn't open up enough for good cold starting with the mods I have. When it was stock it wasn't much of an issue. To get better starting now you have to crack the throttle just the tiniest amount for about 1 or 2 revolutions to add a bit of air, then it will catch.

 

[nycrider]

Hey guys. I recently purchased a used power commander + autotune. I'm planning on installing it and trying to work it tomorrow. I'm just a little bit concerned about one thing. Since it's used, there is probably previous owners map loaded on the power commander? If it is, how do I delete it? I don't want to start working from previous owners map, adding new target AFR and trimming the old map? Is that even a valid concern or am I speaking out of my ass?

 

[Johnrg]

You can plug it into your pc and select all the map cells and zero them out. You may have to go into the menu and turn AFR tables on so you will see them in the file tree, but that should bet you started. Once you get all installed you'll want to enable Autotune and maybe give it a time to warm up before it starts doing any adjustments.

 

[nycrider]

You can plug it into your pc and select all the map cells and zero them out. You may have to go into the menu and turn AFR tables on so you will see them in the file tree, but that should bet you started. Once you get all installed you'll want to enable Autotune and maybe give it a time to warm up before it starts doing any adjustments.

Thank you.

 

[nycrider]

The night time has come... but it appears to be alive!



That stock tps unplugging was really tough, but I somehow managed after a prolonged period of time with two screwdrivers.




I think I'll be needing some help if anyone is willing to help out. So how should I go about the maps now?

Should I open up PCV, start with a "fuel" table filled with 0's and set the target AFR to whatever is desired and start accepting trims?

OR

Download the map that PCV has on their websites, set the desired AFR and start accepting trims?

BTW the PCV map that they have on their website is giving me that dreaded 3-3.5k idle...

Random questions
1) If I remove PCV+autotune, Will the fueling go back to what is used to be pre pcv+autotune?
2) Setting fuel table to 0 with no target AFR will basically mean that the fueling will be the same as it was pre-pcv+autotune aka it'll simply be the base map?

 

[bikesparky]

I think I'll be needing some help if anyone is willing to help out. So how should I go about the maps now?

Should I open up PCV, start with a "fuel" table filled with 0's and set the target AFR to whatever is desired and start accepting trims?

OR

Download the map that PCV has on their websites, set the desired AFR and start accepting trims?

BTW the PCV map that they have on their website is giving me that dreaded 3-3.5k idle...

Random questions
1) If I remove PCV+autotune, Will the fueling go back to what is used to be pre pcv+autotune?
2) Setting fuel table to 0 with no target AFR will basically mean that the fueling will be the same as it was pre-pcv+autotune aka it'll simply be the base map?

You can start with a fuel table at all zero or with a base map from PCV, both will work. The autotune needs to work towards the target values you set in the autotune target table. It takes a few go's (accept autotune values) sometimes to get there. I normally work with a bit af precaution and allow it to do max 20% plus or minus first time but then work down to 10 or 5 %.

1-If you remove the pcv the map is back to where is was before you installed it, factory if you like.
2-putting zero values everywhere in the fuel table does the same, if you switch autotune off also (otherwise that starts working).

Tip: Don't use the autotune in very small throttle openings. the pulses in the exhaust make it go funny and you end up with weird numbers and either very rich or very lean mixture in that area.
e.g. leave 0% and 2% throttle in the autotune target range to zero values.

 

[nycrider]

You can start with a fuel table at all zero or with a base map from PCV, both will work. The autotune needs to work towards the target values you set in the autotune target table. It takes a few go's (accept autotune values) sometimes to get there. I normally work with a bit af precaution and allow it to do max 20% plus or minus first time but then work down to 10 or 5 %.

1-If you remove the pcv the map is back to where is was before you installed it, factory if you like.
2-putting zero values everywhere in the fuel table does the same, if you switch autotune off also (otherwise that starts working).

Tip: Don't use the autotune in very small throttle openings. the pulses in the exhaust make it go funny and you end up with weird numbers and either very rich or very lean mixture in that area.
e.g. leave 0% and 2% throttle in the autotune target range to zero values.

Thanks. I'll mess around before work tomorrow.

UPDATE:

I plugged the pcv to my laptop this morning and ran the bike for over 60 secs to see if autotune was working correctly and it turms out the green light on the software doesn't light up(autotune has been enabled in the software). My idle has been sticking to 3-3.5k rpms after reaching speeds somewhere around 35mph even though my fuel map and target afr has been set to 0. Also, a couple of times I've had the EWS light pop up.

 

[nycrider]

All right it turns out that with my wits, I've posi-tapped into the wrong wire for autotune. No more stumbling now and the bike doesn't act like it wants to die off of every light; also no EWS. I'm only experiencing "sticky rpms" still which sometimes leaves the bike idling at 3-3.5k and rpms drop way too slowly in general, eliminating basically 90% of engine braking that it had previously. I'll try adjusting the throttle cable slack and see if that does anything as it might have been on the tight side before this installment.

 

[Sybias]

All right it turns out that with my wits, I've posi-tapped into the wrong wire for autotune. No more stumbling now and the bike doesn't act like it wants to die off of every light; also no EWS. I'm only experiencing "sticky rpms" still which sometimes leaves the bike idling at 3-3.5k and rpms drop way too slowly in general, eliminating basically 90% of engine braking that it had previously. I'll try adjusting the throttle cable slack and see if that does anything as it might have been on the tight side before this installment.

Check to make sure you have no wires interfering on the left side of the throttle body as they pass under/around the air box. I had the o2 sensor wire interfere with the throttle after my install.

 

[bikesparky]

All right it turns out that with my wits, I've posi-tapped into the wrong wire for autotune. No more stumbling now and the bike doesn't act like it wants to die off of every light; also no EWS. I'm only experiencing "sticky rpms" still which sometimes leaves the bike idling at 3-3.5k and rpms drop way too slowly in general, eliminating basically 90% of engine braking that it had previously. I'll try adjusting the throttle cable slack and see if that does anything as it might have been on the tight side before this installment.

Sticky idle can only be a vacuum leak or electronic issue if it is fly by wire.
Don't connect the autotune powersupply to anything you're not sure about!!! It also feeds the heater element in the oxygen sensor and draws a lot of current.
Best way to connect is over a fused relay supplied direct from the battery and engage the relay with an existing positive powersupply, like the rear light feed or something.

 

[Johnrg]

They recommend a tail light wire to tap into and what mine is wired to on my 310. Just turn autotune off in software if you are unsure and pull the plug from autotune module to the pcv itself. The you're running pcv only and can manually run it and make adjustements after zeroing. Then go in and rewire. At least should help you isolate your issue. PCV may think it's getting a signal but not what it expects. Also I think an issue can be routing of the sensor itself as the conduit must allow ambient air in so should not be crimped or crushed.

 

[DBHUSKY]

DBhusky, Did you solve the fast idle/stall problem? Not something silly like a cable fouling the throttle mech?

No luck, still a fast idle after I ride a bit. I tried both maps (they are the same) that are on the power commander site. Any thoughts on what it could be?

 

[Tinken]

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/pcv-with-zip-ty-map.82158/#post-554269

 

[DBHUSKY]

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/pcv-with-zip-ty-map.82158/#post-554269

I found a dry rotted/cracked hose block off nipple (rubber thingy) where I took off the emissions stuff. I replaced the nipple and did the rest on the eco (disconnect battery, wait 30 minutes, throttle open close 3X, then off and on, then idle until the fan kicks on). It seem ok now. Though I haven't ridden it yet. I just replaced tires, oil, and chain...so tomorrow I'll give her try. Thanks!