• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Random Stall – a Silver Bullett or as close as we may get. TR650 Husky

Interesting...

http://apex-tuning.com/2012/07/choosing-the-right-injector/

Spray Pattern
Spray pattern is one of the most overlooked fuel injector characteristic, but it is also one of the most important. The required spray pattern depends on the intake manifold design as well as the shape of the intake port on the cylinder head and the intake valve configuration. Engines with a single intake valve will generally require a narrow cone or pencil spray pattern, while multi-valve heads (the 20v 1.8t, for example) work better with a wide or split cone configuration. Some applications will benefit from an offset cone, which is similar to the narrow cone pattern, but fuel is injected at an angle directing it towards the back of the intake valve. As injector technology advanced, the pencil and v spray patterns pretty much became obsolete, as the narrow/wide/split cone spray patterns offered better fuel atomization, increasing efficiency and reducing emissions by improving flame propagation in the combustion chamber. Ideally, you will want the widest, most diffused spray pattern with the best atomization without spraying the walls of the intake manifold runners and intake ports. Fuel spraying on the walls of the runners/ports will condense, drip onto the back of the valve, and slowly run into the combustion chamber, resulting in imprecise control of the injection event and an inefficient burn . When choosing a fuel injector, choosing the correct spray pattern for your application can dramatically improve idle and cold start and reduce emissions and misfires.
Click to expand...
 
Note that the oem injector has a 25deg nominal cone. Although the 124 injector specs 20deg, the split cones seem to spec the angle between the nominal centers of each cone, with the spray being wider overall than the spec.

Overall, I would guess the 124 injector is in the 30 deg area.
 
I did a very rough measurement and believe the injector is mounted around 30deg from vertical in the throttle body. Working through the angles and specs, I believe there is plenty of room for a little wider spray pattern without having it spray on the walls.

Absolutely not an expert. But I've convinced myself that it should be fine, whatever that's worth.

I happen to be in the middle of my valve adjustment and took the opportunity to install the 124 injector. Thus, I happen to have a specific interest in this at this particular moment.
 
hasenpfeffer said:
I happen to be in the middle of my valve adjustment and took the opportunity to install the 124 injector. Thus, I happen to have a specific interest in this at this particular moment.
Click to expand...
Depending on time constraints & budget, it would be interesting to take both injectors to an injector shop and have them bench tested to see the differences in spray pattern.
hasenpfeffer, thank you for taking the time to perform some basic measurements.
 
Has anyone who installed the injector logged the WOT AFR? I like this idea but think the WOT fueling performance will suffer
 
The first step in all of this is to determine the firmware version on the BMS-E, the latest version is important

The second step particularly for those who have had dirt though the air box is to ensure the Idle Actuator and air passages are all cleaned

Those who dont have access to a dealer to check firmware version put out a call in the BMW community around you and see who can do an Autoscan with a GS911 and get a copy of it. In terms of both the Injector and the Idle Actuator look to the research and work done by the G650X BM owners they are leading the way on this and learned the hard way
 
The results from KiwiApe suggest improved atomisation, lots of luck with info from Bosch it is like blood out of a stone, wasted a lot of my time finding data
 
He is testing each component separately and is putting some kms on each before final fitting of both
 
AUS_TR650 said:
Fair enough. Just waiting to hear feedback on those who have fitted the new injector.
Click to expand...

AUS_TR650. When mine was running like poop I put the bigger injector in and straight up it made a huge difference, (cold warm up splutter/die and over run / throttle on miss - gone) so for the money and simplicity its a no brainer. Since then I have backed up, taken it out and done Pulstars and all adaptive resets (on OSS) and it is running really well. So for those who can get to a OSS Tool, both items are a simple bolt on solution that makes a big difference. I will put big the injector along with Pulstars one day soon but for now its running so well its not the problem like it use to be and installing the injector does take a few hours.
 
WayneC said:
The results from KiwiApe suggest improved atomisation, lots of luck with info from Bosch it is like blood out of a stone, wasted a lot of my time finding data
Click to expand...

I got onto a tech guy at Bosch in Aus and he was awesome, gave me everything I asked for and more. PM me if you want.
 
WayneC said:
From the GS911 testing and other aspects I seem to have been roped into :) I put together a pdf with all the info we learned re the ECU's and other electronics/electrical on the the Terra, it is available from the diagnostics page I have on line, see the Husky Terra Information pdf

It has listings of the various firmware revisions which are out there for the ECU's other than ABS as the machines I have looked at have not had ABS

http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/Diagnostics.html
Click to expand...
I'm trying to keep up with this thread and I want to say thanks to all for the conversations.
I need to find a shop that can actually tune the bike, though. I had a Booster Plug installed when I bought my TR650, with the hope that I would avoid any of the issues mentioned in this forum. At about 2200 miles, the bike started stalling, mostly on accelleration from turns/stops etc. And it's backfiring a little. Additionally, when it's in the heat (90deg F or more) it overheats. I'm not tech savvy - heck I don't even have a garage to park in - and I'm working with shops locally in Seattle but none seem to know more than the basics, including the local BMW shop (they had no idea the engine has a known stalling issue or what a Booster Plug is).
All that to say: Do you or does anyone have an idea the steps I should take while I've already got the BP in place? I think I'll get it disconnected/uninstalled and start with the ECU/GS911 testing. Does that sound like a good beginning point? Next I can uprade to the Pulstar plug (an easy change) without the BP. Any input on an algorithm re: what order to try these interventions will be helpful. I love the bike and I've invested way too much to give it up!
 
Note that you have one of the best dealers within reach up there. Bill's Motorcycle Plus in Salem, OR knows a lot about the TR and would be able to help you out. It's a bit of a trek, but it might be worth it just to give them a call and see what they might be able to do for you.
 
DJOV said:
I'm trying to keep up with this thread and I want to say thanks to all for the conversations.
I need to find a shop that can actually tune the bike, though. I had a Booster Plug installed when I bought my TR650, with the hope that I would avoid any of the issues mentioned in this forum. At about 2200 miles, the bike started stalling, mostly on accelleration from turns/stops etc. And it's backfiring a little. Additionally, when it's in the heat (90deg F or more) it overheats. I'm not tech savvy - heck I don't even have a garage to park in - and I'm working with shops locally in Seattle but none seem to know more than the basics, including the local BMW shop (they had no idea the engine has a known stalling issue or what a Booster Plug is).
All that to say: Do you or does anyone have an idea the steps I should take while I've already got the BP in place? I think I'll get it disconnected/uninstalled and start with the ECU/GS911 testing. Does that sound like a good beginning point? Next I can uprade to the Pulstar plug (an easy change) without the BP. Any input on an algorithm re: what order to try these interventions will be helpful. I love the bike and I've invested way too much to give it up!
Click to expand...

Ditching the booster plug is a good first step, it is pretty much snake oil as far as i am concerned, even on the 650GS which runs mostly open loop it did not do what was claimed

The second step would be get a GS911 and determine the firmware version, if it is not the latest as per the pdf I have on line get it updated by a dealer, that early firmware is a dog and the machines will never run at their best with the early firmware, the GS911 particularly the WiFi version is the only way you can quickly determine faults out on the road.

After that fitting the Pulstar and the injector KiwiApe has sourced cleans up combustion to about the best you will achieve and it will improve not reduce fuel consumption. From there well you can consider other performance enhancements but you will probably just get on with riding a well running machine

In terms of the stalling you mentioned one lesson from the M 650s is look first at the idle actuator, it took us all a while to work that out, second is adaption reset
 
I'm interested in trying the Pulstar plugs but having a hard time trying to order them. Where are fellow Aussies getting them from? Ordering from US ?

I emailed Pulstar about shipping costs. Got an email reply from someone in Aus claiming to be the agent but my reply emails to him (George) keep getting delivery failures. His web site comes up with dns error, unresolved host name. Googling the Aus. agent's business name brings up some poor service reviews from some customers that have purchased other goods from him.
 
LED said:
I'm interested in trying the Pulstar plugs but having a hard time trying to order them. Where are fellow Aussies getting them from? Ordering from US ?

I emailed Pulstar about shipping costs. Got an email reply from someone in Aus claiming to be the agent but my reply emails to him (George) keep getting delivery failures. His web site comes up with dns error, unresolved host name. Googling the Aus. agent's business name brings up some poor service reviews from some customers that have purchased other goods from him.
Click to expand...

Here is the Aussy agents details where I got mine from John Riley https://hicloneqld.com/orderform.php to order on line or he can call me on 1800 683 466 or 07 4038 3102.
 
What's the bottom line on the fuel injector? Has anyone installed it without any other type of spoofer?

I'm running pod-mod and BMW EJK. My bike runs fairly well. It still has the little hiccup moving from light throttle to off-idle. I want to try the injector with the O2 sensor removed. I deal with a bike shop in town that has a dyno. I'd like to see the WOT AFR with the larger injector. Problem is I have too many irons in the fire and my Strada runs "good enough".
 
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