• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

stripped cam cap bolt on '10 Te250

R

R_Little

Husqvarna
Pro Class
40 in/lb and it let go.

spec is 44 in/lb.

Maybe it was the cold temps, oil on the bolt, by torque wrench is out of spec or overtighened at the factory.

Anyway it looks like if they have room for a dowel then they left room for a helicoil.
Is this a 5 x.08mm bolt?

Can the head come out with the motor in the frame?

I was thinking about a zipty head mod anyway.

Anyone, know a good place to send it for repair?

Thanks
 
R_Little said:
40 in/lb and it let go.

spec is 44 in/lb.

Maybe it was the cold temps, oil on the bolt, by torque wrench is out of spec or overtighened at the factory.

Anyway it looks like if they have room for a dowel then they left room for a helicoil.
Is this a 5 x.08mm bolt?

Can the head come out with the motor in the frame?

I was thinking about a zipty head mod anyway.

Anyone, know a good place to send it for repair?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Rich, drill and tap it for 6mm.
 
Intake or exhaust cam? The shop manual is wrong regarding intake cam bolt placement if using their diagram. That could definitely lead to sticking the wrong bolt in the wrong hole in 3 particular locations. I'm wondering if the mistake was also made during initial assembly on some motors and resulted in instant thread destruction the first time the bolts were removed. Seemed to be a fairly common gripe with new x-lite adopters a couple years back. Here is my experience dealing with a valve adjustment:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-txc-250-valve-adjustment.17188/
 
Craigl said:
Rich, drill and tap it for 6mm.
Click to expand...

Have you done this already?

there is not a lot of room there and I'm kinda afraid to drill something that small freehand.

Do I need a drill press or mill to make sure it is perfectly straight?

I've already ordered a 5x.08mm helicoil kit.
 
ioneater said:
Intake or exhaust cam? The shop manual is wrong regarding intake cam bolt placement if using their diagram. That could definitely lead to sticking the wrong bolt in the wrong hole in 3 particular locations. I'm wondering if the mistake was also made during initial assembly on some motors and resulted in instant thread destruction the first time the bolts were removed. Seemed to be a fairly common gripe with new x-lite adopters a couple years back. Here is my experience dealing with a valve adjustment:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-txc-250-valve-adjustment.17188/[/quote
Click to expand...

Intake side. You can see the caps are numbered for different sizes..are the numbers incorrect?

The manual says 6nm for even the 6mm bolts.....that would strip the 5mm for sure.

Freaking italian manuals
 
R_Little said:
Have you done this already?

there is not a lot of room there and I'm kinda afraid to drill something that small freehand.

Do I need a drill press or mill to make sure it is perfectly straight?

I've already ordered a 5x.08mm helicoil kit.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have done it. I took the head off and used a drill press. I am not sure there is enough material there to install a helicoil.
 
FWIW, you can made a guide to hold a drill or tap straight. I use a piece of 3/4-1" aluminum (hardwood will work) and drill a hole through it on a drill press or mill the same size as the drill or tap. In many cases the guide can be bolted or clamped to the work piece for added stability. To keep the chips out of the engine, I cut or punch a hole in a piece of Gorrilla tape and place it over the hole. Then an umbrella can be fashioned from masking paper and attached to the Gorrilla tape.
 
Xcuvator said:
FWIW, you can made a guide to hold a drill or tap straight. I use a piece of 3/4-1" aluminum (hardwood will work) and drill a hole through it on a drill press or mill the same size as the drill or tap. In many cases the guide can be bolted or clamped to the work piece for added stability. To keep the chips out of the engine, I cut or punch a hole in a piece of Gorrilla tape and place it over the hole. Then an umbrella can be fashioned from masking paper and attached to the Gorrilla tape.
Click to expand...

I bought a 13/64 hand reamer to make sure the hole is not whobbly.

I was going to use the cam cap as a guide and start with a no 7 drill then ream the lat 4 thousands. I bet the stripped hole is about that size already.

Then helicoil tap.

Make sense......?

Craig is going to help me!

Anyone know what a head blank costs if I mess it up?
 
R_Little said:
I bought a 13/64 hand reamer to make sure the hole is not whobbly.

I was going to use the cam cap as a guide and start with a no 7 drill then ream the lat 4 thousands. I bet the stripped hole is about that size already.

Then helicoil tap.

Make sense......?

Craig is going to help me!

Anyone know what a head blank costs if I mess it up?
Click to expand...

Makes sense to me as long as the cap hole is larger enough for the drill and tap and I'm sure you checked that out.

As a side note, I use Perma Coil brand inserts and the tap drill size for 5-.8 is 13/64. From what you say the Heli-Coil tap drill is #5? If so, if the hole is a little loose, the Heli Coil insert would be a better choice.

You won't be needing a head blank.
 
Xcuvator said:
Makes sense to me as long as the cap hole is larger enough for the drill and tap and I'm sure you checked that out.

As a side note, I use Perma Coil brand inserts and the tap drill size for 5-.8 is 13/64. From what you say the Heli-Coil tap drill is #5? If so, if the hole is a little loose, the Heli Coil insert would be a better choice.

You won't be needing a head blank.
Click to expand...

The cam cap fits the reamer but not the tap. You think I need a guide to tap it? I can rig something up.

The helicoil drill is a 13/64 also. I think the perma coil is the same insert. I'm going to by extra 5m x10 inserts...the kit has 7.5mm inserts I think are too short.

How did your perma coil hold up? How much torque is a 5M perma coil rated for? I'm not going over 3.5 ft lbs on these anymore.
 
R_Little said:
The cam cap fits the reamer but not the tap. You think I need a guide to tap it? I can rig something up.

The helicoil drill is a 13/64 also. I think the perma coil is the same insert. I'm going to by extra 5m x10 inserts...the kit has 7.5mm inserts I think are too short.

How did your perma coil hold up? How much torque is a 5M perma coil rated for? I'm not going over 3.5 ft lbs on these anymore.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't take much to drill a hole in something, hardwood block, plastic, etc. Out in the field, I have used a square block of anything to hold up to the tap in a couple of places to check for square.

I have used Perma Coil inserts in holes that should have been welded up and redrilled as a temporary fix that are still holding up. I don't know their torque rating.

If you are using a wrench that is calibrated in foot pounds, it could be part of your problem. A inch pound wrench should be used for small fasteners and don't forget, the threads should be dry. Another thing that can cause stripped threads is how the fasteners are removed. Especially on parts like bearing caps. If one of the bolts is completly slackened at once, it puts lots of pressure on the other side. You probaly know all that, but I'm in the mood to type, I guess.
 
I think it was the oil on the threads.

I used a beam type in/lb wrench....tightened in stages criss-cross. This was the last bolt in the middle.

oh well, I guess I'll become comfortable with helicoils.

I'll put a couple in a blank and see how much they take before pulling out.

one more question.....should I use some red loctite to lock the helicoil?
 
I did the same thing on my '10. Luckily under warentee and the dealer had husky pay for a new head. To this day I'm still not sure what the correct torque is.

Good luck.
 
R_Little said:
I think it was the oil on the threads.

I used a beam type in/lb wrench....tightened in stages criss-cross. This was the last bolt in the middle.

oh well, I guess I'll become comfortable with helicoils.

I'll put a couple in a blank and see how much they take before pulling out.

one more question.....should I use some red loctite to lock the helicoil?
Click to expand...

I don't use locktite and as far as I know it isn't reccomended. The way the insert is under tension in the threads, it is self locking. If for some reason (God forbid) you need to replace the insert, locktite could make it harder to get out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top