• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

stripped cam cap bolt on '10 Te250

Well I got the hole drilled.

Used a #8 .199 drill with the cam cap as a guide. I drilled 13mm deep and hand reamed it to 13/63" ....the hole is straight and beautiful.

The stock bolt only uses 8 mm of thread engagement. No wonder it stripped!

Once my tap guide shows up I'm planning to tap 12mm deep and wind in a 10mm long helicoil insert.

I plan to order a couple of "longer" 5mm cap bolts that husky uses in the "long" holes with the dowels and cut it to get 10mm of thread engagement. I figure if the hole is 13 mm deep the "extra" 3 mm should allow me to counter sink the helicoil .5mm and use the remaining 2.5mm to break off the helicoil tang and leave some extra room for bolt stretch to keep the bolt from bottoming.

Does this sound like enough room?

I want to do this right and I'm acutally having fun.
 
Well it worked great. I was able to add 2mm thread to the hole. It's clean and tight.

The stock bolts are 25mm long and only use 7.5mm thread engagement. Strip city.

The stock holes have almost 5mm more thread that was "left over" in the stripped hole' The longer 30mm bolts almost fit but bottom out and will rip the threads out as others have found out.

I'm going to make sure this never happens again. I've ordered a bunch of the 30mm screws and am going to cut them 2.5mm so I can use most of the remaining thread in the holes.

max 42inlb on the M5 screws and I'm off to the races. I went back to my records and saw that one blt broke loose at an extra tight 9nm from the factory and this must be the one that let go at 5nm.

The good news is the valves are in great shape and they seal tight. I've cleaned out a little carbon from the combustion chamber and it goes back together tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Back
Top