• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stupid questions or not..?? Husky 650 Intermittent Stopping

Missing valve check could cause starting problems. Don´t touch the starter button too tender, let it turn a few times.

Using the throttle while starting will cause problems because that writes an error to the map and changes idle position and speed!

I would say that is definitly your problem.
 
I have to interject here about the "don't use throttle" at start up.

My bike has had intermittent cold start issues.
It would turn over, just catch, then die. It does not just keep turning over.
It can take numerous stabs at the button to get it to start and stay running.

Out of frustration I broke down and tried pushing the button then immediately cracking the throttle just a bit, like I do on carb bikes that are stuborn starters.
Bingo, the bike fired off and stayed running.
No idle issues, no stalling.

Now whenever it does not fire off on the first try, I crack the throttle and the bike starts up & runs just fine.
Again no idle issues, no stalling and no other running issues.

I know this goes against everything I have ever heard about EFI, particularly of the BMW 650's, but on mine it works just fine.
 
I have to interject here about the "don't use throttle" at start up.

My bike has had intermittent cold start issues.
It would turn over, just catch, then die. It does not just keep turning over.
It can take numerous stabs at the button to get it to start and stay running.

Out of frustration I broke down and tried pushing the button then immediately cracking the throttle just a bit, like I do on carb bikes that are stuborn starters.
Bingo, the bike fired off and stayed running.
No idle issues, no stalling.

Now whenever it does not fire off on the first try, I crack the throttle and the bike starts up & runs just fine.
Again no idle issues, no stalling and no other running issues.

I know this goes against everything I have ever heard about EFI, particularly of the BMW 650's, but on mine it works just fine.

AFAIK, I have had no issue doing this on cold morning as well. But then again, I know have check engine light that came on with source unknown.
 
Missing valve check could cause starting problems. Don´t touch the starter button too tender, let it turn a few times.

Using the throttle while starting will cause problems because that writes an error to the map and changes idle position and speed!

I would say that is definitly your problem.

No that is definitely NOT my problem. As I stated earlier, I have cracked the throttle on start up only after the bike has given me problems, hence the need to resort to that technique to get it to start.
 
No that is definitely NOT my problem. As I stated earlier, I have cracked the throttle on start up only after the bike has given me problems, hence the need to resort to that technique to get it to start.

Get a small allen wrench and give ye ole idle stop a 1/6th to 1/4 turn clockwise.

I checked, and 1/6th did not change the tps resistance, but 1/4 did.
 
Hope your dealer isn't far away?...

Sounds like one of your sensors isn't talking to the ECU... or a intermittent fault with a sensor.
temp, elevation, humidity, timing, oxygen = mixture (willing to be corrected on this):)


Hey, Just throwing it out there!
 
Thanks for the help guys. The dealer is only about 35 miles away and I don't mind making the trip. Hall's Motorcycles in Springfield has really gone out of their way to work on this and is currently trying to get help from Husky Central. I'll keep those ideas in mind if they don't come up with something. On the back burner like I said, is the PCV. I'll have more questions about that option later.
 
I can only speak from my experience, once used the throttle when starting led to problems such as backfire to the air filter, stuttering and intermittend stopping. I was able to solve the problem by the reset i described. Every dealer told me that using the throttle while starting writes an error to the map an causes such problems. That is all I can say.

I have no starting problems on my terra, not even when it is very cold.

I think PaulC is right, starting issues and the other problems described allow the suspicion to faulty sensor. If so no update of the map can help.

Good luck ;)
 
Hope your dealer isn't far away?...

Sounds like one of your sensors isn't talking to the ECU... or a intermittent fault with a sensor.
temp, elevation, humidity, timing, oxygen = mixture (willing to be corrected on this):)


You would think that a permanent or intermittently faulty sensor would write errors in the ECU which would be reported when it was plugged into MOSS.
 
next Tuesday I will bring the bike to do the upgrade with moss. I'll tell you 'if I disappear from the written MAP II display at startup. And if it will change anything. I remind everyone that I once an update that I improve 'the problem of deadlock, but not completely resolved.
 
Screenshot_2014_05_22_23_31_23.png
Hello to all. Today I brought the TR650 by the dealer to do an update of the controller. Many of you had said that it had come out a new one and so I tried it. Unfortunately (at least here in Italy) the bike has the same update that I did last year. The writing on the dashboard MAPII I have left. and also the problem of unwanted off of the bike. I attach the screen of the software update. Has made me a mechanic. I'll try again some day so the bike but then surely I will link again my wonderful and miraculous booster plug.
 
a glimmer of hope.....

I am in contact with the Production Manager for Motorbikes at Magneti Marelli, Italy (the people who made the ECU's for our bike). He is asking his colleagues who worked on the Husky project for comment about our problem.

Fingers and toes crossed everyone........:)
 
Got my bike back from the shop with the "latest update released to the dealerships" in the U.S. which is V 14. Still says map II on display. I haven't had a chance to put any miles on it yet and it will probably be near the end of the week. They also said they were able to talk to the factory tech about the problem and they're very interested, especially since I told them of my safety concerns. Even though the bike is well beyond warrantee they didn't charge me for this service. They're making every effort to work with me on this issue.
 
Even though the bike is well beyond warrantee they didn't charge me for this service. They're making every effort to work with me on this issue.

Have you tried the new map? And 'gone wrong? in my case, unfortunately, was still present and I have already reinstalled the booster plug.
 
I haven't had a chance to try it yet. Out of town right now and I hope to be back by the weekend. I'll let you know. Booster plug is ready...
 
I think you will really like it. Just remember it does not cure everything, the most difference I see is in open loop operation(cold, before the Oxy. sensor takes over).
Mine was never a problem on the boil, just when leaving the house and once in a while when coming to stops(stall).
Seems to work better if you treat it more like a highly tuned thumper (like my well tuned KTM SM) than a Honda XR650L or a KLR. 59 hp is not 35hp. they never work the same!
We are in the EFI age regulated by state and federal standards that we can't change with a single carb jet anymore.
Just remember the last road trip on your carbed bike over 7,000 feet. Where did the power go?? EFI bike just keeps on given.
 
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