• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

Phoenix said:
I don't think its going to get fixed until they redesign that bottom end. I really think they sacrificed a lot to get this engine extra light and the e-start is the biggest example. It just doesn't seem to have the "oomph" to conquer the engine compression on a regular basis. Does any other manufacturer use a worm gear style starter setup on their four strokes? It just doesn't seem adequate.
Click to expand...

I agree...the design is marginal and any manufacturing tolerance may add up the wrong way.

The old starter system clutch was splined to the crank...this one is added behind a regular morse tapered flywheel....it looks like a 2 stroke re-starter on a KTM and I don't think it has the capacity to push over a hi compression 4 stroke all the time.

That being said my 2010 TE250 is starting/running GREAT with a bit of tinkering.
 
R_Little said:
That being said my 2010 TE250 is starting/running GREAT with a bit of tinkering.
Click to expand...

What was the tinkering? One of the biggest problem for the end user is not really knowing where to start to fix this. Do I buy a new starter motor, worm gear (90 deg housing w gears) compression release or....
 
My tinkering included:

1st fix (faulty decomp):
New cam (this was an early model 2010 problem only, though)

2nd fix (starter motor pooped out):
new starter motor

3rd attempt (sprag clutch locked up to the flywheel):
new worm gear
new ring gear
new sprag clutch
new flywheel key

4th attempt (kind of a different issue, but starting related):
starter relay

The only thing I haven't replaced that I have heard of others replacing is the flywheel itself (apparently they changed the taper at some point?).

My understanding that the only bikes that had the non-upgraded parts were the early VIN 2010s like mine which doesn't really explain why there are still issues to this day.

I think I may send my fried starter motor off to somebody like Stockers Starters to see if they can come up with a cheaper replacement or rebuild kit for us poor Husky addicts.

My advice for anybody with an X-Lite...don't make it work too hard to start. If the motor isn't cranking it easily, bust out that kick starter and at least help the motor by putting it at top dead center or just go ahead and kick start it. Its a super easy bike to kick and a very expensive starter to replace (not to mention a dead bike if you kill the battery). I always start in neutral as well.
 
Phoenix said:
I think I may send my fried starter motor off to somebody like Stockers Starters to see if they can come up with a cheaper replacement or rebuild kit for us poor Husky addicts.

My advice for anybody with an X-Lite...don't make it work too hard to start. If the motor isn't cranking it easily, bust out that kick starter and at least help the motor by putting it at top dead center or just go ahead and kick start it. Its a super easy bike to kick and a very expensive starter to replace (not to mention a dead bike if you kill the battery). I always start in neutral as well.
Click to expand...

If you find a replacement I'm sure others besides myself would like to know.

So far mine has only been a hot start issue and starts with the kick starter but my bike has a good bite and I usually end up with my knee into the handle bars, but that's another issue.
 
Tessier said:
...I pulled out the kick started and that is when I realized the starter was remaining engaged. When I kick the bike over the starter backdrives and spins so apparently the dealer didn't...
Click to expand...

I am working on a 2011 250TE that seems to be having this problem. I have torn off the right cover and the kicker parts all seem ok. Add the clutch basket back and the kicker feels like its turning the starter as well as the engine. I am guessing it's time to move to the electric start side to look for disengaging problem. I haven't found anyone else, other than Tessier, that describes the problem as above. Anyone know more about this specific case? Thanks...
 
Remove the flywheel, flip it over, remove the retainer and see if the sprag clutch has become stuck to the flywheel. That happened to mine with identical symptoms. I tried removing the parts and cleaning them up, but ultimately ended up buying a new sprag clutch. It appeared that the spring that holds the clutch together had worn out. Halls had it in stock. I posted some pics on this post:

TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...
 
Hey, Thanks Phoenix.
Here's what I found. I took the stator off and sure enough, the kickstart was driving the worm gear all the way on the other side. The starter clutch gear was frozen in both directions. Judging by the wear in the middle of the starter clutch outer teeth, he had been riding and spinning the worm gear/starter. While pulling off the flywheel, the starter clutch seemed to break loose. There seemed to be little sign of a defect in the starter clutch. I wonder if the infamous backfire locked it up? Customer wants to give it another go before spending the money for a rotor and a clutch gear. Crossin' fingers...
Thanks again
 
My ? Would be are these problems your seeing a full time issue or are the only showing when one is hot starting? Worse yet is the hot starting issue a per curser to the failures your seeing.

It to me seems like we might have multiple things going on that are effecting the starter.

Good luck all.
 
DougW said:
What was the tinkering? One of the biggest problem for the end user is not really knowing where to start to fix this. Do I buy a new starter motor, worm gear (90 deg housing w gears) compression release or....
Click to expand...

Husky replaced a starter it did nothing.

I then had the dealer replace the work gear and it worked better till the flywheel spun and sheared the woodruf key.

I lapped the flywheel to the crank and used loctite retaining compound and it has been starting great ever since.

Make SURE your flywheel is not slipping on the crank and shearing the woodruff key...that advances IGN timing and makes it hard to push past TDC at crank over.
 
I used valve lapping compund and Prussian Blue to check fit.

Not too just make sure it fits and there are no high spots.

Also, make sure the exhaust valve under the de-compressor is not too loose. it starts better on the tight side of the spec.
 
MotoVirginia said:
Hey, Thanks Phoenix.
...the kickstart was driving the worm gear all the way on the other side. The starter clutch gear (sprag)was frozen in both directions...While pulling off the flywheel, the starter clutch seemed to break loose. There seemed to be little sign of a defect in the starter clutch....to give it another go before spending the money for a rotor and a clutch gear. Crossin' fingers...
Click to expand...

The update on reassembling the 250TE with the failing sprag clutch. Didn't work. It eventually locked up again the first day of riding. The sprag clutch is removable from the rotor via a retainer plate. I ordered a new plate, sprag assembly, and clutch gear (inner race was slightly marred and outer gear damaged by the worm gear)...
 
After 6 months testing beside replaceing starter clutches,loose bevel gear nuts,scroll gear sets,flywheels and adding washers to end of crank.We have 2 more things that have helped starting .We needed to test before publishing it .We move the starter decomp spring for more tension by moving it up on top by cutting a slot with small cutting disk on a dremel and the left ex valve clearance at .004-.005 max and has been working excellent.pics below. FIRST PICS STD POSITION,the groove is a bit crude on this one it was a bad cam and we used it for test cut. View attachment 22404
 
Is the slot going to throw off the balance any?

By putting more tension on the spring isn't going to keep the decompresser closed more or make it harder to open? I guess I'm not sure how this effect the starter.
 
No balance in cam's if you actually look at them on a single. It keeps the valve open longer and gets Max clearance longer;like I said we have beentesting for 6 months now and it works great. The idea is to keep valve open longer to get motor spinning faster ;/makes it a lot easier on the starter motor.
 
I could definitely see that working. My first exhaust cam had a straight spring and while I had a new one on order, we put a light bend in the leg of the spring and it made a HUGE difference in starting...just that tiny bit of extra tension.

Is this a mod we can send the cam for you to do or something that you will post instructions for? I'm not sure I trust myself with a Dremel and a $275 exhaust cam. lol. I suppose I do still have that practice cam, though... :thinking:
 
DAVE SAYS HE SPENDS ABOUT $35.00 WORTH OF TIME DOING IT.So thats it $35 .Its really not hard and just cutting a groove it doesnt need to be pretty just do the job.
 
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