• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE450 high speed shudder

I have a WR 300 that i use on the street also with super moto wheels. My bike is also sensitive for wobbling, and i think the rteason for this is that the forkangle is made for 21" rims that makes the front of the bike stay much higher and therefore increase the forkangle. When you put on a 17" wheel the front of the bike is leaning more "forward and therefore decreasing the forkangle which leads to more instability. I think one solution would be to use a shorter rear spring to increase the forkangle again. Also the front fender is very important to change to a super moto one because the airflow makes it even worse.

Johnny
 

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hotducati;106128 said:
i changed the fender. i believe the angles are the same on the smc as well?
Click to expand...

Frame is the same, but the geometry is different due to the SMR having different (shorter) forks, shock, springs, and different triple clamps in addition to the obvious wheels/tires. Few SMR owners report this problem so I think it's something on my bike or me.
 
well, i talked to a suspension shop in my state that is gonna take it in next week. He said they used a company that made triples for this bike to correct the geometry. Unfortunately, they are no longer around. I guess we'll see what happens.

In the meantime, i reset the sag for my weight. which was way off at about 2 1/4 inches. Im now sitting around 3.5 or between 80 and 90 mm. I will test drive again. Also dropped the forks to about flush, right under the bright aluminum lip.

chris
 
I didnt have a chance to go above 65 mph today. i did notice i can touch my toes with both feet on the ground. before i couldnt even get close. It was also much more difficult to wheelie in 3rd. the bike sits so much lower now with my adjustment. Do you think there will be any adverse effects? as far as i know the sag is the difference in sitting on the bike and having it up on the stand. leveled off from axle center and leveled off from nut on side plastic. i got about 3 1/4 difference.... sound good?
 
this is pretty much what my SAG is....I am still waiting on my 21' and 18' tires ... should get them installed on thu - fri...

I also just ordered 17 wheels, will take me some time to finish building them up and decide what tires to get...

i do have to explore my local supermoto scene...
 
there are 2 sag measurements.
1st is the bike on level ground under its own weight, this should be 25-35mm
the 2nd is you in full gear sitting on the bike, this should be 90-110mm

if you cant get both of those #s, the bike is sprung incorrectly for your weight.

Ive been playing with mine a bit and Im running 25mm/95mm and the forks are set 16mm from the top of the cap to the top of the triple.
I believe my front sag with me on it is 35mm, but I cant remember off the top of my head.

mine is a bit twitchy at speeds, but it doesnt wobble any. it turns like its on rails around a kart track.
 
as far as my manual states. sag refers to the difference of both sitting and the bike off the ground. a-b=sag. 1 number. Then you need to adjust appropriately to reach that number. Ideally, 80-90 mm

a real bitch to measure by the way, if your solo.
 
well you start with the suspension topped out, ie: on a stand, and get that measurement.
then you measure how much sag the bike has under its own weight, which is the bikes sag (you dont want that to be 0 or the same as the bike on a stand)
then you have race or static sag, which is you on the bike.

both #s need to be right in order for the bike to handle correctly, the owners manual is incredibly basic.
 
What's your riding position btw? as an old sport bike rider If i find myself sitting too far back, bike more unstable, but If I move closer to the front, things get better...
 
my seat has a taper little farther up than middle. so my ass sits there. i do try to lean as far forward as possible to reduce instability, but its not comfortable for me at all.
 
I will pick up the bike thursday and heading straight to the track for friday. He mentioned it most likely needs triples for the measurements to work out for street. Unfortunately his supplier is no longer in business that makes the triples. In the meantime he will get as close to spec as possible for track.

I might just have to lean way forward so i can race on sat/sun. We'll see how track day goes.

Ill keep you posted on how it turns out. Im also gonna run slicks saturday. Its still possible the front tire is part of the culprit.

chris
 
Hello all. I got some news from the suspension shop. He said my settings were all good for my weight. Only thing that i need for the wobble is 0 offset triple clamps to stabilize the bike. Only problem he doesnt know where to get them. to make one set would cost huge bucks..... bugger.

chris
 
Husky hard parts offer's offset tripples- 15mm, 20mm, and 25mm. Also wonder if the stock SM's are different than TE's.Or what stock TE versus, TC, TxC, and SM tripples are?
He said you need 0 offset? as in ZERO OFFSET? I can't imagine... zero offset. There are adjustable (expensive) tripples available from Xtrig: http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?p=107351 but that won't get you to zero offset or even close to 15mm. Another reason Rekluse should make an E-Axel for the Husky!
 
0 offset doesnt sound right to me. it was so brief on the phone. i was up on a roof. he needs to get my front end to about 100mm. right now its about 80mm
 
you mean 100mm trail?

how about lowring rear using lowering link and dropping forks in tripple trees???

btw, I am up to 70mph on my TE with Continental Twinduro tires... and still can raise forks quite a lot... my SM wheels should be completed by end of next week... waiting for SM brake conversion kit.
 
I just crudely measured my 09 450 SMR triple clamp and they look to be 15mm offset.
so if a TE clamp is 20mm or 25mm, thats way too much and will make the bike twitchy at speed.

I cant get an accurate measurement without completely removing the clamp tho.
 
how exactly offset is measured? I thought the more offset you have, the more stability you have...
 
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