• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE511 - crappy pot metal shifter keeps loosening. Aftermarket Replacements?

I looked at the manual for the 499/511 they are using a socket and universial. Looks like it has the same or more clearance then the 310 does the Socket and ratching wrench I linked in the photo above will work well on both the 310 and 449/511.

Also an 8MM swivel socket would be able to work on the 449/511 but not enough room on my 310 for a swivel to work.
00943194000
 
I finally had to tighten my 511 shifter.

  • Allen wrench barely worked, though I could have drilled another hole in the UpTite skid plate and made it work perfect.
  • Offset twist wrench worked pretty slick http://www.sears.com/craftsman-13pc...ckType=G30&PDP_REDIRECT=false&s_tnt=39869:4:0 (I got a set of these at Lowes on clearance for about $10...every once in a while they are the perfect solution. They also work great on the 8mm headed bodywork bolts)
  • Ratcheting wrench also worked fine.
 
Just a thought, but has anyone already tried the shift lever from a G450X? Looks more sturdy than the original Husky item? Not sure whether our frame lower would get in the way tho'.
 

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Hey guys. I finally got fed up tightening my shifter all the time. Last week it completely stripped. Here's how i fixed it. Machine shop drilled out the hole and put in a Brass insert with a small lock set screw. I pressed it on to the bike shank. It will make its own slots in the brass. Drilled out the bolt part and put a bolt right threw with a nylon lock nut. Works great and has been solid as a rock so far. If it ever does fail its a $5 fix. New brass insert and back in business. Way better than $80 for a new one. Cost was $35 at the machine shop for the initial work. Hope this helps.
 
mag0037 said:
Hey guys. I finally got fed up tightening my shifter all the time. Last week it completely stripped. Here's how i fixed it. Machine shop drilled out the hole and put in a Brass insert with a small lock set screw. I pressed it on to the bike shank. It will make its own slots in the brass. Drilled out the bolt part and put a bolt right threw with a nylon lock nut. Works great and has been solid as a rock so far. If it ever does fail its a $5 fix. New brass insert and back in business. Way better than $80 for a new one. Cost was $35 at the machine shop for the initial work. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...


So, the brass goes where? Sounds like you put the brass in where the splines used to be? How'd you press it on the bike with no room in there?
 
TE/TC 449/511 Shift Lever Update

IMS is in process of making one now. I will be dropping my bike off to them on Thursday for a fit test. Limited Production run of 80 Units. be available in a few weeks. I will keep you posted.
 
I would prefer they make a steel one to aluminum as I have had every aluminum shifter ever get a tiny bit loose and then fail completely. VS the steel takes alot before it just strips out completely.....Ideally a steel end with aluminum arm/tip :)
 
The BMW Shifter lever is approximately 3/4" to 1" shorter in overall length. Which is too short for me as I have a size 12 riding boot. I use the Husky shifter because it is a bit longer on my G450X and have never had issues with it coming loose, so far anyway. Then again I never did with the BMW one either. Thought I might though so I had a spare BMW one ($22.00 on ebay) in a box. Now I have 2, since I swapped to the Husky shifter.

The bend is quite a bit different on the Husky lever compared to the BMW but neither of them splines onto the shaft in a comfortable position for me. Not high enough for my particular taste. Yet if I go 1 spline higher from the position it's at. It won't shift at all as the lever hits the bearing support bulge in the case behind the sprocket in the up shift direction.

So what I am trying to say is, I've run both and don't like either of them really. Thought about welding the 2 BMW shifters together to make one out of the pair, a bit longer and a tad higher relative to the splined position but the curvature of the bends in the pair of them just doesn't lend itself well to doing this either.
 
I bought a brake pedal and it was like 85$....I bought a kickstand and it was 90$....

I know damn well that the shifter is an 80$ item.

on my 2 stroke husky the oem shifter was like 90$ at the dealer.


I am just adding that we need more aftermarket support for our bikes in regard to controls that brake all the time.
 
Thanks Ryan.
I bought the broach to make billet ones, never got around to it. Too busy building a new torque limiter now. Plus it takes a $20 slug of aluminum.
 
Tinken said:
$80 bucks for that? Wow, looks like WWII salvage.
Click to expand...

Who said $80.00? $29.95. I will run the WWII Salvage, better than being 80 miles from nowhere on a bike you can't shift or having to take your chain off in the middle of the ride to mount your spare shift lever that you have to carry because your stock Aluminum POS will probably strip out sooner than later. I need reliability.
 
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