• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE511 - crappy pot metal shifter keeps loosening. Aftermarket Replacements?

Fair enough, I misread. 30 dollars isn't so bad, but it still isn't a product for me. I have had the oem shifter on and off several times, I just make sure the splines are very clean and I use loctite.
 
I too am on the stock shifter with no problem. Just a thought the steel shifter give the added benefit of being able to bend/break the shift shaft while the aluminum one will likely give out. This comes to mind because I have had a steel shifter do this before. I do not how hard the shift shaft is to replace, but I suspect it isn't easy.
 
Sorry I threw the 80$ out there because that is what I was quote for a new OEM shifter from the dealer. It was like 87$ for a stock shifter. The way our cases hangout us short people end up dropping these things in the dirt off camber hills and stuff, which means 100$ per drop :'(
 
I may be very lucky (don't think so) & my Force sump guard might help, but I've thrown my bike down the track more times than I can remember & the gearshift comes up smiling.
The failure point is the spline which is better cut on the MCS aftermarket item.
Bending isn't an issue on my bike, but I have done 2 rear brake levers.

I'm not sure about all the fuss really, these shifters are the equivelant of $50 US & I just looked up the Australia Post web page, less than $22 Aus to ship it to the US with tracking.

And it will last longer than the original....easy really.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALLOY-GE...orcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3e38407b
 
I like the Force guards, do they still sell them?

Yes, I've only seen black advertised of late (mine is silver) but still available.
The single bolt fastening is great & the guard takes a pounding.

Actually I was quite lucky with the one I got, my bike was the last bike sold from the local BMW dealer before the local Berg dealer took on the Husky franchise.
The BMW dudes were clearing out their stock of accessories, I picked up my guard for $120. :D
 
Take some time and remove the Chain.. get some space there.
Remove the shit alen head bolt and install a 10.9 grade Flange head bold. Flangehead bolts wont come loose.

first lever was constantly loose until i stripped it. This is the second lever. Used at the first installation the Stock allen head bolt. It came loose right away.
So this now is a 10.9 grade M6 bolt with Flange head. Longer on purpose so i could install 3 washers between Head and Lever. Plus having the bolt coming out of the other side. The three Washers take tiny movement in the bolt away, just like in big application where we Install a 10-15 mm Spacer between Bolt and Rim's... They never come loose. So this Set up is on my bike now for 2500Km without re-tightening .Gear lever....jpg
 
All you need to do is replace the Stock Bolt with a good one and no more trouble ... 3600km and never came loose.

Mine never really came loose. The bolt was always tight the splines just rounded over. Maybe I shift to forcefully. Maybe I tightened it too much. There have been lots of post asking if someone made an aftermarket shifter so when I found one I posted it. If you want one you will be able to get it from Hall's.
 
wow that lever is a freaking beast.

I would rather see a breakaway lever made. Will be a much better solution for us. same with the brake.
 
wow that lever is a freaking beast.

I would rather see a breakaway lever made. Will be a much better solution for us. same with the brake.


I would say the IMS shift lever is for the Extreme Dual Sport rider. Tight Knarly, Rocky Steep, brutally difficult Single Track that runs you out into the middle of nowhere or places like BAJA where you don't want to break down and be stuck in the middle of nowhere. If you are an incredibly talented rider, ride tamer terrain or SuperMoto then the Aluminum one from Driven is a great looking shift lever that has received great reviews. The IMS one is Steel so it bends instead of breaking. Easier to bend one back in shape on the trail rather than to change out. The good news is that 449/511 Owners have some better options than the stock lever that has been randomly succesfull.
 
I am all for the steel lever as it will not save that much weight really.

My problem was offroad I would drop the bike all the time because I am 5' 6" and my friends are giants that stop on hills....all the time :(

Same with my husky cr125 2000 model it was down for a broken/stripped shifter....got an aluminum one, dropped it and stripped it at the splines...

Now I am waiting again for a stock steel one I purchased off ebay :\
 
I am all for the steel lever as it will not save that much weight really.

My problem was offroad I would drop the bike all the time because I am 5' 6" and my friends are giants that stop on hills....all the time :(

Same with my husky cr125 2000 model it was down for a broken/stripped shifter....got an aluminum one, dropped it and stripped it at the splines...

Now I am waiting again for a stock steel one I purchased off ebay :\


I am 5'-6" as well. Tend to drop the bike more often than the taller guys. Sent the Suspension to Zip-Ty and they lowered and re-valved it, what a deference. Your confidence level goes way up when you can put your feet on the ground.
 
Oh I know, My 511 in my picture is lowered 1.5" front and rear, with also a cut down seat on 17" wheels and I can do anything and go anywhere with it no problems even on dirt with street tires its a easy ride.

My 125 on the other hand holy crap its a bitch to ride low speed. But i love all that travel on the big whoops.
 
Hey guys. I finally got fed up tightening my shifter all the time. Last week it completely stripped. Here's how i fixed it. Machine shop drilled out the hole and put in a Brass insert with a small lock set screw. I pressed it on to the bike shank. It will make its own slots in the brass. Drilled out the bolt part and put a bolt right threw with a nylon lock nut. Works great and has been solid as a rock so far. If it ever does fail its a $5 fix. New brass insert and back in business. Way better than $80 for a new one. Cost was $35 at the machine shop for the initial work. Hope this helps.
hi
could send a picture of the end result?
thanks
 
Driven shift lever PN DASC-89 is correct PN. perfect fit, duplicate of factory original except folding tip is a little longer, and splines are cut all the way through. Also, only around $35. Very satisfied with my purchase.
 
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