Thermostat Delete

[glitch_oz]

Mark_H why didn't you just epoxy/glue a small disc on top of the cage?

Epoxy/ glue on PA66 (Polyamide)?
Better not!!..and that's before glycol and heat-cycles come into it.
Check the stamp on top of the T-stat cage for the material designation.
Alum discs/ washers are mechanical, don't rust/ dissolve / dislodge etc

And yes, the little tab is missing in the drawing.
No idea if it actually prevents any rotation/ dislodgment of the unit...but it sure makes it a lot easier to remove....as well as prevent it sliding too far up the housing to get the clip on.

 

[engineerk9]

You are missing something on your drawing. At first I thought the little tab positioned the spacer for flow, but it really doesn't matter which way it is turned. Pretty sure BMW designed it to keep it from moving under expansion and contraction. Might want to think about putting that in there.

There is no need for the tab, nor was there a need on your design

The tab was to prevent one of the 4 legs from restricting water flow, with no legs only the centre pillar there is no restriction

 

[glitch_oz]

There is no need for the tab, nor was there a need on your design

The tab was to prevent one of the 4 legs from restricting water flow, with no legs only the centre pillar there is no restriction

The tab is in the "baseplate" of the cage/ holder and is below the O-ring/ outside the T-stat recess.
It's a location tab which comes real handy when trying to remove the complete unit from the header tank.

 

[Mark_H]

The tab is in the "baseplate" of the cage/ holder and is below the O-ring/ outside the T-stat recess.
It's a location tab which comes real handy when trying to remove the complete unit from the header tank.

Yes, but once fitted is there ever going to be a need to remove it?
If necessary I am pretty sure a probe/screwdriver in the lower recess would lever it out equally as well.

 

[mag00]

I have the dimensions for the simplified version, any machine shop with a metal working lathe could machine one up out of 50mm aluminium bar stock in only a few minutes

I have been monkeying with Sketch up, but having a bit of trouble. If you could draw it up, no reason it could not be 3d printed out of a stable plastic correct?

But something I was thinking about, and never really sat down and put on paper, was on the bottom to thread a hole in it, to run a bypass hose, vs cutting into the hoses again, for the bypass type thermostat.

Since Tinken took the ball and ran with it, I didn't pursue it. But sadly, Tinken (sorry about that) is no longer working on that, so I may get a good design for my machinist.

At minimum, I want a threaded hole if not to just run a slide hammer in for removal. Also, something to think about is a threading for a radiator temp thermostat. That could run the second fan.

 

[engineerk9]

I have been monkeying with Sketch up, but having a bit of trouble. If you could draw it up, no reason it could not be 3d printed out of a stable plastic correct?

But something I was thinking about, and never really sat down and put on paper, was on the bottom to thread a hole in it, to run a bypass hose, vs cutting into the hoses again, for the bypass type thermostat.

Since Tinken took the ball and ran with it, I didn't pursue it. But sadly, Tinken (sorry about that) is no longer working on that, so I may get a good design for my machinist.

At minimum, I want a threaded hole if not to just run a slide hammer in for removal. Also, something to think about is a threading for a radiator temp thermostat. That could run the second fan.

Magoo I posted an engineering drawing earlier, I had looked at 3D printing, since we do a lot of that, but discounted due to cost & time (3D printing is not a quick process)
The least expensive & quickest is machine from aluminium bar stock or some form of heat resistant plastic
With full flow passing thru' the radiator there might be no reason for two fans
Over cooling would be more of a challenge
Your suggestion for a bye-pass seems overly complex
Once fitted the spool would not need to be withdrawn

 

[engineerk9]

I have been monkeying with Sketch up, but having a bit of trouble. If you could draw it up, no reason it could not be 3d printed out of a stable plastic correct?

But something I was thinking about, and never really sat down and put on paper, was on the bottom to thread a hole in it, to run a bypass hose, vs cutting into the hoses again, for the bypass type thermostat.

Since Tinken took the ball and ran with it, I didn't pursue it. But sadly, Tinken (sorry about that) is no longer working on that, so I may get a good design for my machinist.

At minimum, I want a threaded hole if not to just run a slide hammer in for removal. Also, something to think about is a threading for a radiator temp thermostat. That could run the second fan.

My post #90

 

[engineerk9]

This is mine l machined yesterday from barstock

 

[engineerk9]

My post #90

As per my previous drawing

 

[Mark_H]

This is mine l machined yesterday from barstockView attachment 64998

Nice, I wish I could do something like that :-).

 

[engineerk9]

Nice, I wish I could do something like that :-).

If you work on a ship, any of the Ship's engineers (I'm one) could machine it up for you, from my drawings - less than an hours work on the lathe

 

[engineerk9]

I have been monkeying with Sketch up, but having a bit of trouble. If you could draw it up, no reason it could not be 3d printed out of a stable plastic correct?

But something I was thinking about, and never really sat down and put on paper, was on the bottom to thread a hole in it, to run a bypass hose, vs cutting into the hoses again, for the bypass type thermostat.

Since Tinken took the ball and ran with it, I didn't pursue it. But sadly, Tinken (sorry about that) is no longer working on that, so I may get a good design for my machinist.

At minimum, I want a threaded hole if not to just run a slide hammer in for removal. Also, something to think about is a threading for a radiator temp thermostat. That could run the second fan.

Easy enough to tap an 8mm thread up into the base for either extraction screw of epoxy a temperature probe into the hole

 

[Mark_H]

If you work on a ship, any of the Ship's engineers (I'm one) could machine it up for you, from my drawings - less than an hours work on the lathe

Hi, I did get one made to the specs in your drawing, but I was surprised to find it did not fit.
The reason appears to be a lack of taper in the first two sections that hold the O-Ring.

I measured the original unit and found it to be tapered at 42.6 and 43.0 mm in the first two sections, whereas your drawing shows 43.4 mm uniform diameter.



I have since given up on the spool piece idea and gone back to my use of the original thermostat support unit with a coin and four screws to create a similar device - it may not be as 'stylish' as a shiny spool piece but it does the job and costs almost nothing. Best of all it fits without any problem.



I have successfully fitted both my Strada and Nuda with this today and they are working very well.

 

[engineerk9]

Hi, I did get one made to the specs in your drawing, but I was surprised to find it did not fit.
The reason appears to be a lack of taper in the first two sections that hold the O-Ring.

I measured the original unit and found it to be tapered at 42.6 and 43.0 mm in the first two sections, whereas your drawing shows 43.4 mm uniform diameter.

View attachment 65418

I have since given up on the spool piece idea and gone back to my use of the original thermostat support unit with a coin and four screws to create a similar device - it may not be as 'stylish' as a shiny spool piece but it does the job and costs almost nothing. Best of all it fits without any problem.

View attachment 65419

I have successfully fitted both my Strada and Nuda with this today and they are working very well.

Okay - thank you for the feed back - not difficult to machine a thin skim off the oversize - I'll check mine for size

 

[M1A2TechPI]

Hello Everyone,My Holy Week (March 20-26th) here in the Philippines was spent on staying home and "Giving Some Love to MY Terrable" / Thermo removal/ Thermo Mod/ XF2 coolant and a Koso Temp Sensor with Gauge. Also Thanks to Mark H in Cebu for the 2nd version of the Thermostat Mod MK IV. I do apologize for "maybe" too many images, but thought you would find them useful. Also, changed Oil & Filter, Brake Fluid, new grips & hand guards = BUSY + a couple of San Miguel's. In the 1st week of April I had my seat trimmed down 1" by a shop that had a Air Staple Gun and that cost me $7 = more beers. As of April 15th, my Temp Gauge has read 75-93º C = 157-199º F. Regards to All Here, Chris

 

[M1A2TechPI]

Ok, Still learning how to include images - But at least I'm trying. Ride Safe. Regards, Chris

 

[LED]

As of April 15th, my Temp Gauge has read 75-93º C = 157-199º F. Regards to All Here, Chris

Hi Chris. Any idea what your temp gauge was reading before the thermostat mod ? Enjoy the San Miguel.

 

[M1A2TechPI]

Hello LED, To the best of my knowledge all there is on the stock dash is the "LITTLE" boxes and that was no real use to me. I got the gauge here in Manila but had to get the Koso 22mm sensor from the States and that took me 4 months. I really do not see / understand why the TR's have a Air Temp on the dash??? I am planning on getting a Spal 4" Fan to help even more. Additionally, I will try this week to start and let my "Terrable" idle in the carport and monitor / chart both the "Little Boxes" and the actual C temps on the Koso as they raise up. Regards, Chris

 

[Mark_H]

Hi Chris. Any idea what your temp gauge was reading before the thermostat mod ? Enjoy the San Miguel.

Chris if you could watch your Bike as it warms up and log the temps corresponding to each bar of the dash gauge we could probably work out how hot it was running before the thermostat removal job.

For example my bike ran at around one notch before the lower point of the lower V part of the display and the fan cut in as it moved a further notch up the scale. Now in the same situation with no thermostat in place my bike runs almost constantly 2 notches lower on the scale.
I also notice that the temperature now takes longer to rise when I stop in traffic and when the fan does cut in it only stays on for a short while and goes off again. This indicates to me that the radiator is really working quite well and I have now have no need for the second fan that i originally planned to fit.

 

[engineerk9]

Chris if you could watch your Bike as it warms up and log the temps corresponding to each bar of the dash gauge we could probably work out how hot it was running before the thermostat removal job.

For example my bike ran at around one notch before the lower point of the lower V part of the display and the fan cut in as it moved a further notch up the scale. Now in the same situation with no thermostat in place my bike runs almost constantly 2 notches lower on the scale.
I also notice that the temperature now takes longer to rise when I stop in traffic and when the fan does cut in it only stays on for a short while and goes off again. This indicates to me that the radiator is really working quite well and I have now have no need for the second fan that i originally planned to fit.

One would expect the temperature to increase slower, there's much increased coolant flow thru' the radiator - certainly your thermostat byepass will cause the radiator to be more effective due to "improved" or "increased" flow - I'm not so sure about colder climates though, for good combustion the cylinder head does need to be at a fairly specific temperature
Wayne with his GS911 is able to measure cylinder temperature & fan cut-in/out temperature, mine was something like 100degC, imperative to use coolants that can operate at that temperature