As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Not normal. Why are you having to do the reset?I am having to do this reset every month or so. Is this normal or could there be underlying issue? Have checked the the throttle cable and all looks fine and smooth.
Maybe try grounding the throttle body/tps
I'm having same, only if engine very hot. I think, that's mixture problem. Airbox is too hot - mixture is too rich. May be I'm wrong.... I would accelerate and then of the throttle completely and it still revs pretty high (feels like stuck 1/4 open throttle) even with the clutch pulled in completely. Sometimes it got that bad i have been going 60 Km/h and slowing down to stop at lights and even when am at the lights stopped its still reving way to high...
Updated TPS/EFI Reset 449/511
"Quick Reset" of Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and EFI Controllers 449/511
1. Run engine until operating temperature is reached. Shut engine off.
2. Disconnect the positive lead on the battery, then while still disconnected, press starter to discharge remaining electricity from the capacitor, wait for approximately 15 minutes, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the TPS on most motorcycles by itself. If not, go to step 3.
3. Turn the ignition key on (or push starter button briefly 2012-13 and listen for the fuel pump to charge up, do not start engine).
4. Turn the throttle to full stop and then back again.
5. Turn the ignition key off (or wait for efi to cycle and shut off 2012-13), and then turn it back on again (2012-13 see #3).
6. Start the bike without touching the throttle.
Air Bypass EFI Adjustment 449/511
This is the big brass screw high up on the side of the EFI body
2 ¼ turns out (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.
Notes:
- Re-flash ECU with BMW map set #3. Most dealers can do this and solves the majority of the issues on here, poor starting/flame out issues. (TE/TXC)
- The brass screw is the only screw on the throttle body that should be adjusted.
- Add +1/8th turn if engine fails at low idle due to aftermarket exhaust.
- Remove the EFI cable cover off the side of the EFI main body and check if all the cable adjusting screws are tight and that the cables wind around the cam correctly through its full range of movement. While you are there you might as well check for the correct cable backlash/free play. There is a section in the owner’s manual which describes this.
- 2012-13 models require clutch lever activation in order to start and discharge the capacitor.
- SAM511/Tinken
- Check battery, engine and frame grounds.
![]()
Updated TPS/EFI Reset 449/511
"Quick Reset" of Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and EFI Controllers 449/511
1. Run engine until operating temperature is reached. Shut engine off.
2. Disconnect the positive lead on the battery, then while still disconnected, press starter to discharge remaining electricity from the capacitor, wait for approximately 15 minutes, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the TPS on most motorcycles by itself. If not, go to step 3.
3. Turn the ignition key on (or push starter button briefly 2012-13 and listen for the fuel pump to charge up, do not start engine).
4. Turn the throttle to full stop and then back again.
5. Turn the ignition key off (or wait for efi to cycle and shut off 2012-13), and then turn it back on again (2012-13 see #3).
6. Start the bike without touching the throttle.
Air Bypass EFI Adjustment 449/511
This is the big brass screw high up on the side of the EFI body
2 ¼ turns out (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.
Notes:
- Re-flash ECU with BMW map set #3. Most dealers can do this and solves the majority of the issues on here, poor starting/flame out issues. (TE/TXC)
- The brass screw is the only screw on the throttle body that should be adjusted.
- Add +1/8th turn if engine fails at low idle due to aftermarket exhaust.
- Remove the EFI cable cover off the side of the EFI main body and check if all the cable adjusting screws are tight and that the cables wind around the cam correctly through its full range of movement. While you are there you might as well check for the correct cable backlash/free play. There is a section in the owner’s manual which describes this.
- 2012-13 models require clutch lever activation in order to start and discharge the capacitor.
- SAM511/Tinken
- Check battery, engine and frame grounds.
![]()