• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Updated TPS/EFI Reset 449/511

.
cheers Tinken - Mine is the only SMR in NZ which I imported from Australia. I called a couple of Husqvarna dealer workshops and they didn't know what I was talking about. The NZ importer did bring in the 449 TE & TC models so you would think they should have the info - I also called a BMW dealer and they said they will look into it as well.
ASk for the Akropovic Map setting.. I did that on my 511 2013 model. I watched them as they did it. took them 5 minutes. Its not called anymore the BMW map thing. In australia, bikes where delivered with Standard Muffler and Akro in the Box. With the Akro , u remove the Oxy Sensor and put that setting on....
 
The SMR's didn't come with a Akro pipe, just a oversized emission compliant muffler, so I fitted a Rocket carbon fibre can, disconnected the O2 sensor and enabled race map 2. Is the Akro Map setting version 3 ?
 
The SMR's didn't come with a Akro pipe, just a oversized emission compliant muffler, so I fitted a Rocket carbon fibre can, disconnected the O2 sensor and enabled race map 2. Is the Akro Map setting version 3 ?

looks like the dealer or dude you bought the bike of kept the Akro Muffler..... Standard in Australia !! comes with two Mufflers.
 
I bought it from a dealer in SA new zero km over the phone and email a couple of months ago and no discussion was had about Akro muffler and I did ask what was included in the spares kit. So the deal for me did not include Akro can. The Rocket can is a step up on the Akro anyway IMO despite how ridiculously loud it is. Next task is to make a DB reducer insert and then map 3 or PCV
 
Tinken, So referencing your instructions......is there no need to run the throttle thru its range as on the keyed models? I am having more issues with the idle hanging. Perhaps a MAP concern? I did the adjustment and no luck.

Updated TPS/EFI Reset 449/511

"Quick Reset" of Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and EFI Controllers 449/511

1. Run engine until operating temperature is reached. Shut engine off.

2. Disconnect the positive lead on the battery, then while still disconnected, press starter to discharge remaining electricity from the capacitor, wait for approximately 15 minutes, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the TPS on most motorcycles by itself. If not, go to step 3.

3. Turn the ignition key on (or push starter button briefly 2012-13 and listen for the fuel pump to charge up, do not start engine).

4. Turn the throttle to full stop and then back again.

5. Turn the ignition key off (or wait for efi to cycle and shut off 2012-13), and then turn it back on again (2012-13 see #3).

6. Start the bike without touching the throttle.



Air Bypass EFI Adjustment 449/511

This is the big brass screw high up on the side of the EFI body

2 ¼ turns out (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.

Notes:

  • Re-flash ECU with BMW map set #3. Most dealers can do this and solves the majority of the issues on here, poor starting/flame out issues. (TE/TXC)
  • The brass screw is the only screw on the throttle body that should be adjusted.
  • Add +1/8th turn if engine fails at low idle due to aftermarket exhaust.
  • Remove the EFI cable cover off the side of the EFI main body and check if all the cable adjusting screws are tight and that the cables wind around the cam correctly through its full range of movement. While you are there you might as well check for the correct cable backlash/free play. There is a section in the owner’s manual which describes this.
  • 2012-13 models require clutch lever activation in order to start and discharge the capacitor.
  • Check battery, engine and frame grounds.
- SAM511/Tinken



Big_Brass_Screw.jpg
 
If your idle is hanging I would suggest that the Air By-Pass screw is out of spec a little.

Air Bypass EFI Adjustment 449/511

This is the big brass screw high up on the side of the EFI body

2 ¼ turns out (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.
 
"If your idle is hanging....."
or other erratic idling is usually the first clue.

However, it is a baseline setting for the EFI system so you always want to make sure it is right before adjusting anything else.
 
Is stated above. Any fuel delivery issue....ie hanging, stalling etc a reset is a starting point.
 
I have just picked up my TE511. Done 150 klms on her. I have a scary problem with a hanging throttle. Not a big problem until it does it off big jumps at speed. Specially coming into corners... makes my bung hole pucker up big time. Any clues.... I am thinking of taking bake to the shop I bought it off but worrying they will give me bull on it. They have already told me about the oil issue. Stating to make sure I keep it on the lower part of the glass..
 
Did you reset the ecu by uplugging the battery? Also check to make sure that neither of the throttle cables are binding. Do you have the power up plug installed?
 
Did you reset the ecu by uplugging the battery? Also check to make sure that neither of the throttle cables are binding. Do you have the power up plug installed?
The what !!! and where would I actually find that thing if I was game enough to look..
 
If you take the seat off, the battery is under there. If you look halfway between the battery and the headstock you will see the ecu (multiple coloured cables into a box ) just above that there is a recess and this is where the plug is to enable Race Map 2
 
Updated TPS/EFI Reset 449/511

Air Bypass EFI Adjustment 449/511

This is the big brass screw high up on the side of the EFI body

2 ¼ turns out (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.

Notes:

  • Add +1/8th turn if engine fails at low idle due to aftermarket exhaust.
- SAM511/Tinken



Big_Brass_Screw.jpg


RE: "Add +1/8th turn if engine fails at low idle due to aftermarket exhaust."

I've just installed an FMF PowerCore 4. I'm back to stalling at low RPM. Even worse than when I ran the bike stock during break-in (i.e. without the power up plug). I haven't sent the ECU in for remap yet, but I am running the power up plug and the smog fell off. I just want to clarify what +1/8th means. I always think of + as screwing in (clockwise). But in this case I assume you mean back it out an additional 1/8th of a turn??
 
Hi Guys, just wondering if any one has had to replace their TPS sensor switch??

Mine had the cables broken off by a stick in the bush, I replaced the sensor and now the dash doesn't have FAIL showing but wont run correctly.
I did a TPS reset as shown on page 1, both methods of leaving disconnected for 20 mins and turning throttle full on and off while ignition on only.
However the bike won't run correctly, it will rev hard but low revs is just popping and reving unevenly and carrying on. Do I need to connect it to a scan tool and have it set up? (thats what the local dealer is saying)
Any info is appreciated. Would like to ride tomorrow otherwise will need to take it to the dealer and have it looked at in a weeks time.
Thanks
 
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