125-200cc 06 Wr125 Redo - Done

I use alot of zip ties to keep parts in order. I also use masking tape to wrap, like shaft, gears and shims in order of removal. Also, alot of sandwich (Zip Loc Bags) labeled with parts by area of removal (radiators, gas tank, handle bars, etc..... If I think it is going to be a tuff area to remember, I take a picture, for future reference.

Darin,

Great stuff, keep it up.

So far, I want to personally thank some of the people that are helping me behind the scenes when I need an answer or can't find a spec in the manual.

You can't find a better group of Husky folks and how they help each other out!

i dont think any of you guys realize how hard i worked at beating the snot out of that bike!


looks great darin and i can not wait to see the finished product!

ps-hope nothing was trashed beyond use/re-use......

Well, it's obvious to me, that you need a few more horses.

And it's sure nice to see, that ole bike finally getting some love.

I don't think it was trashed, gotta remember that it is 5 years old. So alot of this is usually needed anyway. Just goes to show how well the Husky's are built.

Actually, it is a good machine to rebuild from. In some ways I am going overkill but really don't want to mess with it again for years to come and want it very dependable. If I see anything with wear on it. It's getting replaced. Hopefully, you'll get to take it for a spin when it's done.

I don't think she'll ask for anymore horses. If she gets another horse then I get that new TC449 or a CR150.

Those horses are the best negotiating tool a guy could ever have.

Thanks, I hope it really turns out good.

Here is an answer to a question. How do you recover the serial numbers on your engine after you paint over them? I primed a light coat over the existing serial number, then painted over the serial number, lightly. I made sure that I only had about 1 coat over the number. After the paint has dried, look at the dot pin serial number. You can still see the point indentations they did from the factory. They are still there and legible. I used the pointed tip, on my Exacto Knife, stuck it in each dot and twisted the tip back and forth. It made a new dot in the paint. I will see if I can get you a picture of it.

Another option: After you prime your case, cut a piece of masking tape to cover the number and paint over the tape. Just like I did on the frame. Leave it on till you sell the bike some day.

I will see if I can get more done this weekend and next week while I am off. Engine/Frame parts are on order and will arrive over the course of several weeks (Thanx for the referral, Walt).

I still have tons of things to do before I re-assemble the engine.

I was told, the crank had a new rod installed last year. I did however, decide to just to put a new one in for insurance. I went with another Pro-X Rod kit for $78 and the crank pressing/truing was $95. I did get the crank back last Friday and it is ready. Old rod was still good but I do not want to split the cases again for several years.

Gary, thanx for fixing me up with a TMXX carb!


Any thoughts on the Dyno Port pipe versus the FMF? It came with both.

I will be using my 09 one,two,five cylinder. The only thing I will be doing is cleaning up the exhaust port/match it to the pipe, gasket matching the cylinder/cases but other than that, stock with TMXX carb/RM Needle.

Pic 009/010/011

Now it's time for me to do some more bling stuff. With everything else coming along so good. There is no way, I can put the swingarm back on, in the condition it is in. I basically, want to get rid of all the corroded anodizing, nicks and dings. This is about a 4 hour project.

I am going to be using my air wire wheel and floor mounted wire wheel to remove all the anoziding in the welds, tight and hard to sand areas.

Pic 012/013 Once this is done, I will be using my electric 5" orbital sander. I start with 120 grit paper and end with 220 grit paper. I am basically, focusing on removing the anodizing, scratches and dings. There were a couple that I couldn't take out, in fear of jeopardizing the strength of the swingarm. I also used my detail sander to get into the tight areas and sand the welds. Note: just sand the texture of the welds but don't remove them.

Pic 014/015

Next I move on to wet sanding the swingarm (after it is done by the electric sanders, in 220 grit).

Then, I mix a solution of water, along with a little dishwashing soap. It helps you sand and also keeps your paper from loading up with the aluminum.

I start wet sanding the whole swingarm with 220 grit paper, then 320 grit paper, then 600 grit paper and finally ending in 1000 grit. I also use a towel to wipe off the aluminum frequently, to look for scratches and check my finish (with each grit of paper). You'll definately be building some serious arm pump-up!

Pic 016

Shows the swingarm completely sanded to a final finish in 1000 grit. It is now ready to polish. I will come back at a later date and install a pad where the mud flap always rubs.

Pic 017/018/019

Next I will prepare the buffing wheel on my floor mounted polisher. I will first use a screw driver, then wire brush and then apply my compound (Tripoli) to the wheel.

Pic 020

Polish the swingarm. I also get in all the hard to reach areas by moving the swing arm to different positions and angles. If you have a small area, you can always do it by hand. Take your time and let the polishing wheel do the work.

Pic 021

Shows the swingarm mounted to the frame after it was polished. I also went back over it with my Green Dragon polish just to give it a final make over.

Pic 022

I just got done cleaning up my bearings/rocker arm/etc..... for the swingarm linkage. Actually, the bearings,shafts and seals are still in great shape. So, if the shoe fits, wear it!

Pic 023

I am repacking the bearings with all new grease.

Pic 024

I re-installed the rocker arm, loc-tited the bolts and torqued them to specs.

Pic 025

I cleaned up the shock to remove all dirt, grease and installed the new spring.

Pic 026/027

I mounted the shock, loc-tited the bolts and torqued them to specs.

Pic 028

I also wired wheeled my axle blocks just to clean them up and slide my axle thru.

This is my 4th bike that I have polished and it is quite easy to take care of. After you wash your bike, just go over the areas with some polish and a rag and it stays nice.

I can tell you this: The italians use some good metal in their bikes, because the japanese swingarms/cases don't turn out this nice.

top thread this..
swing arm looks
hey if you got one you should post a before shot of the bike... cant recall seeing one..

andy j
te 310

This is awesome! You are answering a ton of questions that I have been looking for and I thank you.

This is going to be a show bike once it's done. Are you really going to let someone ride it?

Pic 001

Thought I'd show you a product for your home garage that I really like. It works great for cleaning carburetors and non painted parts. What's neat, it comes in a gallon can and also has a parts basket, down inside the can. I usually keep a can just for carbs and one for geasy/slimey stuff. I get it a my local auto parts store.

Pic 002/003

I am now cleaning off the gunk from the brake lever,shifter and kick starter.

I noticed that I have to replace the kick starter bolt and also the o-ring for sealing the grease in it.

I also wire wheeled the lower kick starter, cast steel piece. I will paint this black in the future when I get new parts for re-assembly.

Pic 004

I removed the shift lever tip since it is going to need replaced as well.

Pic 005/006

Next I am going to file off all the visible casting marks on the shifter, kick starter and brake lever. To cheat, I leave the ones on the back and bottoms that you'll never see.

Pic 007

Next I use my floor mounted wire wheel to remove all the anodizing and corrosion on the levers. I sand them starting at 120 grit and end at 220 grit (Electric sanders). Then I wet sand them with 600 grit paper before polishing them. If I want an actual mirror finish, I would wet sand them to 1000 grit.

Pic 008

This is the kick starter, shifter and brake lever after they are polished.

Pic 009

Now I am moving on to my clutch and ignition covers. Using my floor mounted wire wheel. I remove all the old and worn anodizing off the covers. I leave the anodizing down in the emblems. It is a bear to get out any way. It leaves a good surface to paint over later.

dont get none of that chem dip on yer shoes then track it in the house the ol lady 'll kill ya! oooo that stuff stinks. had 150gl drums of it at a machine shop i worked at for soaking alloy engine cases and head etc. mckay chem dip is GNARLY.

hey- mister painter, question. wanna repaint my WR pipe after de-dinging it. what paint can i use to duplicate that semi-gloss color? i know zilch when it comes to paint so....GIVE!.

keep up the great work on the shiney-dime tiddler project. park it in the living room!