1983 XC500

To retain bearings in a case I did not want to change, I used some 2" dia thin disks I had and drilled the centers with a clearance drill for a 3/8 threaded rod, Disk on top, disc on bottom and use 3/8 nuts to sandwich the bearing. Follow that for each bearing you want to retain and make sure the case is set so that the bearings fall out. I see so many try to get away with a torch instead of using the oven. More damage happens, I see it all the time on Thumpertalk.

I bought a new set of bearings complete from VH. We'll see what he uses for the ignition side. I got a lead on the Max bearing for the ignition side from GaryM, and will probably get one for the ignition side anyway. I've got a complete seal kit and NOS gasket kit. So when time permits I'll strip the cases to raw metal and repaint. I've got to make a rear Flange sleeve and Steering sleeve. Also my 3rd,4th and 5/6 gears on the clutch shaft are marginal. I haven't pulled the bearings from the left stub yet but will tune the crank after I do. Then I can close the cases and start on the clutch and kicker system. I did buy a straight kick lever so that's a plus. Ha Ha I still need a carb and upgraded intake setup and so much more.

I used a BBQ for the 450, I'll try the pottery furnace for this set. It has 2 zones but one is damaged. Plus I can run it with my rebuilt 1955 Kohler generator.

I'll also freeze the bearings and use the bearing plates as stops.

The bearing seals can take upto 350°F. I cooked one because I had to heat the case upto 500° to get the repair sleeve for the right crank bearing into the case. The countershaft bear was the one that leaked but the seal for the bearing can be replaced without removing anything but the countershaft sprocket

But jim , why install a 30 year old bearing ? The countershaft bearing takes all the stress. Is was interesting to watch at dilla
,as for some reason, maybe was watching chain tensior work as we were comparing the Roller from Halls which as a 8mm mounting bolt vs most others have 6mm. Back to the point amazing to see have much travel on the chain and how much whip that tensior controls. So imagine how much that whip etc puts on the countershalf itself. Note - much less on Wr s with less travel. I replace all those on the right side of case always during split.

That bearing was only 10 years old as Joe Morel rebuilt that engine in 1996. And even if it was 30 years old,it would be a better bearing than what you can buy now. It had zero radial play.

I got the new bearing today from John@VintageHusky. Here's a pic of the output bearing and the ignition side crank bearing.

So I got the bearings off the left stub and found this! I called Dave at Tritrophy and he sent me a new set of used very good condition stubs.So I split the crank and after finding the rod, big pin and bearing in good condition I pressed it all back together. Than I tuned it up. If you click on my name you can see how the crank looked after being pressed together
View: https://youtu.be/mWU53bAIUyA

I got the bearings out of the cases as well, and will clean and paint them up, new bearings complete, seals complete, and complete gasket set. Now I have a shit load to do!

View: https://youtu.be/lYpnfKmz9Rk

cool stuff

The finished crank!

View: https://youtu.be/jhKPaO764S4

Nice job

looks superb

Got everything painted up and the bearings are in the freezer. Should get to put it all together Tuesday nite.

Did you clean them in the dishwash.......oops, I mean parts washer?

lol, do not eat...

they might have a pet goat you cant be too carefull

I'm going to send the fasteners out for re-zinc, what parts are yellow chromate? I can't tell as mine are pretty rusty.

Spoke nipples