Whats Up BigDom, haven't seen you over here for awhile, hope all is well. It sounds like you may know SA beach regulations from first hand experience? HaHa, and how was your linkage bearings after doing that on the beach. Timmy
Here they are all considered conservation areas and protected. No vehicles except for conservation patrol vehicles and some specified areas for beach launching of boats.
My chain looped up between the sprocket and swingarm, i had to remove the link at the top of the loop to free it. Something there, like in your vid, might have stopped that loop happening, I havent had much free time lately so have just taken my bike to the engineers today. The welder said the best method to repair would be to build the hole up with weld rather than weld around a patch. Im not getting the guard mount welded back on, i see it as a waste of time. We will see what the outcome is, watch this space.......
In your video, you show the other part (the "second" half) of the broken chain going around the countershaft sprocket. However, if it's broken, why would it do that? It's probably just going to get flung off into space, in some direction depending on where it is when it breaks. It's not going to follow the other half of the chain into the sprocket like in your video, since they aren't connected any more.
You see, talk to a welder, the man (or woman) wants to weld. I'm sure he didn't recommend buying some JB weld did he. I hope everything turns out OK. If it can be welded and saved that would be great.. If its patched with JB its just patched with JB. Thats enough though to get it to a good welder. Lets hope he's able to do a good job and do it correctly. If he's working for someone else, his own job may be at stake. If he's working for himself, it may be his own reputation at stake.
I personally would not weld that without disassembling the case and handing him just that part. Your just asking for trouble and I have already personally seen a "fix" like that end up costing way more because other parts failed. Disassemble and have it welded and done right or slap some JB weld on it and live with it.
Of course thats what I'm talking about Kelly. Having the "case" welded and properly repaired. It's the only way to do it in my opinion also. Like I said before earlier in this post. I've sent many customers packing there greasy pile right back out the door because it wasn't stripped, or even cleaned. All I would want is the broken case. It wouldn't be my concern what had to be done to get it there. I won't put anything dripping oil, greasy or covered with grime in my bead blaster or assembled to other parts anyway. So off to the car wash they would go and then back home to split the cases. you would be surprised how many times I've had people do a full case split to repair something of this nature. Mostly by people under the age of 25 infact. Why that is I couldn't tell you but they didn't care how much work it was and split the engine. People closer to my age, 55 wouldn't want to bother to do that. So right out the door they went. I'm over it. I am fully aware of the fact this may be to expensive or to much work for some or maybe for anyone who has this problem on this forum and JB weld is the go too product for most of all of you. If so, thats your choice. if I was asked to do the welding on"it". "it" is all I need to weld. Thankfully I can do without taking in side jobs like this nowadays.
Broke a master link ( weakest link ) past sunday , boy did I luck out . Had a spare master was back on the road ....
Do you have a picture of how/where the link broke? Did it fracture a plate, or did the clip just come off?
Two things here. 1. Run a BRP or TM Designworks chain guild, they are much better, stronger, dont bend to the side, have more room for the chain so less likely to peel your clip off 2. put silicone glue over the masterlink clip. It helps the clip stay on. I do this to my countershaft clip also. I use this stuff, works great. Stays on so good you need to pick it off with needlenose pliers when your ready to remove the clip.
You're right, but for me it's difficult to imagine how the chain could wrap otherwise. Maybe it could do that if it snaps here, due to the engine brake: Anyway, I think that something like this and a case saver would be an effective prevention. IMO the chain has to have no more space around it than the quantity it needs to work, because the wrapping nees room to happen.
I'd agree, Theo, that a case saver of such/similar design could only be beneficial. However, it seems to me that the greatest chance of snappage would come from applying the throttle, hence a break along the topside of the chain. Sure, engine braking will increase load/tension along the underside, of course, but from a likelihood perspective I think most breaks occur under accel load. I also think that centrifugal force would dictate that the chain would fly away from the CS sprocket, as opposed to following it around.
I posted that a loop of chain somehow forced its way between the sprocket and swingarm. It must have got backed up a little for the sprocket to keep a hold and drag it through. A guard in that position might have done something good, just enough to keep peeling the chain away from the sprocket.
Similar, but it went right through to touch the chain on top. I had to remove the link at the top of the loop to free it otherwise it wouldnt pass back through There seems no way of preventing a snapped chain from gathering around the gear lever area.
