I did that years ago on a old ford big block. I just put a Mallory distributor with the old wires in, and while adjusting the timing, got shocked with the claimed 40,000 volt ignition. Holy Sh*t that hurt. Smashed my head against the hood latch upon being zapped. Let's just say, new wires were purchased and a new found respect for electricity.
So I've just discovered my 2010 TE630 (22000klms) has the following issues:- broken RHS filter screen with random bits of stainless steel gauze spread throughout the bottom end clutch basket loose as on main shaft, lock washer never had the tabs bent onto nut clutch spring cup washers smashed to bits, rub marks on clutch springs where they have been rubbing on counter balance gear cracked clutch spring retaining plate How I found this was, I thought the valve guide seals had worn as engine oil consumption has gone through the roof in the last 5000klms (1L per 1000klms) without any major loss of compression or power. This started occurring after the head gasket blew at 17000klms and the cause was traced to overly deep milling marks (from the factory) in both the barrel and cylinder head mating surfaces, meaning the composite head gasket was doing its best to seal but eventually burnt through to the water jacket lining up perfectly with a deep mill mark. Upon close inspection of head gasket, it was evident that there were multiple areas that were nearly burnt through all lining up with aggressive milling. The head and barrel were hand scrapped and then lapped on a sheet of glass with a slurry of valve grinding paste and WD40. The valves (and guide seals) were removed to do this work, then lapped in their respective seats and the original guide seals re-used (in hindsight, maybe not a wise decision). The bike was going great guns for the first 500klms after the head gasket was replaced, then the oil consumption started to increase so I was thinking the seals didn't like being disturbed. Now that I've found the gauze filter destroyed and the clutch spring cup washers broken I'm concerned that even though I haven't noticed a power loss, the oil consumption may be caused by a scored cylinder and/or broken ring if there's been metal flying around the bottom end....
Ouch, my bike is currently at 17000klms so maybe I should start looking out for such issues as well. It has been running great mechanically except for a voltage regulator issue. Ive checked the RHS filter about 5000klms ago and it was clean. The only metal shards I found were on the oil magneto...even the flywheel was squeeky clean. Hopefully nothing has started to deteriorate since then. Anyways, did you change your timing chain at 20000km as suggested in the maintenance manual. Im curious whether I need to change it soon or can get away with changing it later...sorry to hear about your predicament these engines are SUPPOSED to get to 50000kms with regular oil and timing chain replacement at 20k. Atleast thats what Ive been told by a reputable mechanic. Good luck.
Regarding the timing chain, I was reading the manual the other night and spotted that one (first time I'd actually noticed). I'll definitely replace it now while it's all apart.
Stupid frickin' POS Alexon radiators strike again, had to turn around before I even made it out of town this time...
Aw man- hate to hear of this. I replaced one of mine a few years ago (and the other is original) so yeah I'm a bit paranoid about this. Hope you get the parts quickly and easily- please let us know how that goes.
You got right on that. Now that you mention it I may want to get a spare set of rads...but pricey. Better that than having the bike laid up, though. Let us know how smooth the install goes- if I'm recalling that thread correctly there's a little bit of mod/fiddling that has to occur.
From what I've been told by the Husky tech who worked on mine, the GPI rads from China on ebay are better than the stock ones and for sure cheaper. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GPI-ALUMINU...ash=item43c856df83:g:5VkAAOxyeZNTSjDH&vxp=mtr
Modified fan bracket, tweaked the top crossover nipples to clear the coil, had to tweak the front guard mount tabs, seems these rads are a touch wider as well, but the tank does fit. The thicker rads are tight on the hoses to the thermostat, who here has ditched the thermostat/bypass and run straight from the water pump to the Y?
Success for now, fan comes on when it's hot as it should, no leaks. Everything is just a little more snug.
Well, I sure jinxed myself a few posts up. Yesterday, way out in the backwoods, sure enough my left one sprang a leak. I was able to get back out of the woods to the main road then coasted down the mountain (3-4 miles!) and then was able to limp the 30 miles back home by stopping frequently to check/top up. That's the second time my left one went- right side is still original with about 14K on the bike. I'm tempted to try the Chinese rads, but man that stuff does look packed Tight in and around there. I now have two bad LH stock rads so may look into trying to get at least one repaired to have as a back-up. I can't believe I'm saying this but- if I can find one- I may get an Alexon just so I can get up and running asap. Expensive for a weak part, though.
