Evap Can

I always throw these away when I find them, This one seems like an after thought mounted behind radiator, looks like it was blocking air flow.

I do the same on my BMW's, and looked at this one too, but not closely. How did you reroute/eliminate your lines? How difficult was it to remove? A little extra air flow is always nice and that thing does look to do some blocking.

I ran tank vent hose behind engine near swing arm mount, removed the rest, then installed small KN filter on head valve.

I forgot to mention, I cut part of can mount near bottom to get canister out, Becareful, radiator is close, Then you will see the 2 frame mounting bolts which also holds canister mount, 13mm lock nuts, 12mm bolt. Hope this helps. I also noticed open intake hose was pinched shut so the damn thing wasn't working anyway.

Could you provide pics? How about a part number for the K&N filter?

Those fasteners are really hidden! Last night I spent some time with my flashlight looking down, up, sideways, every which way, and couldn't see them. I trust they are there though.

I'll try to get some pics, You need to remove canister from plastic holder first, then you will see the bolts, they can been sen from opposite side.

Mind explaining what the function of this item is and why it's thrown out? I'm new to modern bikes, so I'm pretty minimal when it comes to these extra do-dads.

The evap canistor is supposed to collect vapor from the top of the gas tank whether the engine is on or off and temporarily store them in the canister. On my buddies DRZ....if he filled his tank up too much...the canister would get raw fuel in it and clog. When that would happen...he couldn't start his bike for something like an hour or so. I have heard this happening on several other make/model bikes as well. I've always just removed them and freed up some space and weight. On my KLR I put a tool tube where the evap can used to be.

kjack is correct, however on the TR650 there is a check valve to prevent that.

More pics, KN filter 62-2470, You can see where I cut can mount to remove can first, you can then see mount bolts, nuts are 13mm, bolts on other side is 12mm, The nuts are locking type so becareful.

Here is another I was over limit on last post.

Thanks for the the pics and part number Wadejesu.

Head valve? What is that for?

I stripped the clothes off my girl to do some electrical accessory work. While at it, thought I would do a canisterectomy. Traced out three primary lines from canister to: 1) tank vent at gas cap. 2) some strange plastic thingy on upper right frame what looks like it may have electrical connection....is this a check valve of some kind? 3) left side of throttle body....looks like it plugs into brass fitting on throttle body (not the head).

Tough to see clearly without removing the airbox collector (which appears complicated).....radiator is blocking one of the mounting bolts. Oh joy!

Why would the canister be connected to the throttle body (or the head...as you imply)? I don't recall that being the case on my F800 when removing it there. But, I could be mistaken. Anyway, what purpose would that serve. Also, could that open port simply be blocked with a vacuum plug? Why would it need to breathe atmosphere?

Scratching my head on this one? I'm not following why you put filters on the two lines shown. Seems you could eliminate these two lines entirely. But maybe I misunderstand their function. I do believe you should put a filter on your tank vent line for insurance.

HF

There is a diagram on right fork leg

Interesting.....I had not noticed that previously. Thanks for pointing it out.

Unfortunately, that diagram is wrong. I took much of my bike apart today for a closer inspection, and did go ahead and remove the canister, bracket, and the solenoid valve apparatus. I confirmed there is no hose running to the Head, as the diagram indicates. That particular hose definitely routes to the throttle body and is a vacuum line, as I suspected.

Start your motor and put a finger on the end of that hose and you will feel it sucking a lot of air. I don't believe it is intended to be normally open to atmosphere. But maybe I'm wrong. I blocked the line permanently with a vacuum plug, and removed all other related items from the bike.

HF

I am pretty curious about the "solenoid valve apparatus". I am trying to find the time to make some much needed changes to the bike and this is high on the list. Thank you both for all the details. Please let us know of ant drivability issues. Unplugging the solenoid is something I may try and avoid unless you notice nothing. On the other hand, removing an additional useless component is quite appealing!

Here it is....in all its splendor!




And the whole enchilada.......solenoid, canister, & bracket. No need to cut anything apart. It all comes out easy enough, if you take the time to get "other stuff" out of your way.



Done carefully, it can all be re-installed if you discover that you miss it too much.

Here is the electrical connector:



And the vacuum line from the Throttle Body:



I capped it off with a Vac-plug, and the bike runs great! Appears to have eliminated that lean spot right off idle. My motor seems to be running a bit smoother off bottom. More testing is needed to validate. The vac-line / solenoid valve could be a source of the "too Lean" condition at low rpm.

HF

p.s. I'll be doing a step by step Canisterectomy article soon....and post it one place or another (not both).

Canisterectomy...sweet!

Viola! Done. I just can't get myself to unplug the solenoid electrical connection until HF confirms no issues. I swear I heard my cooling system thank me!