• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Evap Can

I was able to sneak some time away from the child, wife, and homework to work on husky. Sure enough the vacuum cap I did add to the hose and tucked away was missing. Must have vaporized. Rather than spend ominous amounts of time in a cramped space to put another cap on, I removed the hose entirely and capped at the throttle body. Idling for about ten minutes didn't tell me if there was an improvement, and I have a couple other minor projects (check engine light) to do before I put the plastic on and go ride, but I feel a bit better about this now.
 
Good to hear! As far as I'm concerned that can was just one too many things hanging out with the radiator. Being I've had the radiator out as many times as I have it just wasn't going back!
 
Bike is running a bit better, still has a drop around 3000 but only really a pain in 1st gear. I can get rid of the check engine light (not sure I was trying the right methods). Uncovered the connector but the liquid eletical tap was to resilent to scratch off, so I cut and unsheathed the wiring and tried them together, apart, grounded, and to the sensor pins. Each time I would shut the bike off, then on again for it's self diagnostic. No bueno.

Will see if Ride West in Seattle can read code. Now to determing if a booster plug, eruption, or PCV is the next route to go for the throttle.
 
The connector is just left unplugged as is. I covered mine with tape, but that's it. As for your check engine light you need to go back under the body work and really check what you did while you were in there. My guess is that there is something unplugged. There aren't too many things to check, so just pull it off and look. Trace all your wires to the motor. The case for there being something unplugged is especially good if the light comes on right on start up. The evap will not do that.
 
Glengemen said:
The connector is just left unplugged as is. I covered mine with tape, but that's it. As for your check engine light you need to go back under the body work and really check what you did while you were in there. My guess is that there is something unplugged. There aren't too many things to check, so just pull it off and look. Trace all your wires to the motor. The case for there being something unplugged is especially good if the light comes on right on start up. The evap will not do that.
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Ok, I will have another look--the light comes on after turning the ignition on letting it perform it's start-up diagnostics.
 
Glengemen said:
Inquiring minds want to know......
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Sorry, I took a quick glance with the plastics on, it's all I have been able to sneak time away for. My academic career ends tomorrow, at which point the bike is my next objective, especially as I am hoping to get out on a non-commuting ride this Saturday. The local beemer shop said they can attempt to read the code for $50 if I can't find anything.
 
Glengemen, thank you for you apt advice. I owe you a beverage of your choice.

The image that I hopefully attached correctly shows the cause of my check engine light. This is on the rights side of the bike, beneath the air box, viewed with the plastics removed. It appears to be a sensor attached to the throttle body (throttle position sensor perhaps?).

On to the fixing the air box now.
 

Attachments

  • rsz_unplugged.jpg
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Highfive said:
Here it is....in all its splendor!

DSC09628-L.jpg



And the whole enchilada.......solenoid, canister, & bracket. No need to cut anything apart. It all comes out easy enough, if you take the time to get "other stuff" out of your way.

DSC09646-L.jpg


Done carefully, it can all be re-installed if you discover that you miss it too much.

Here is the electrical connector:

DSC09629-L.jpg


And the vacuum line from the Throttle Body:

DSC09630-L.jpg


I capped it off with a Vac-plug, and the bike runs great! Appears to have eliminated that lean spot right off idle. My motor seems to be running a bit smoother off bottom. More testing is needed to validate. The vac-line / solenoid valve could be a source of the "too Lean" condition at low rpm.

HF :thumbsup:

p.s. I'll be doing a step by step Canisterectomy article soon....and post it one place or another (not both).
Click to expand...

Hi there I need some help here with this Vac Plug?!

forgive me I might be an imbecile but is there a special Vac Plug?
Im having idling issues after installing PCV and found somewhere here a possible solution , fixing leaking Vacuum line

so this hose I see in the picture is this a vacuum line? should it be plugged

thanks
 
s-l1600.jpg
this is only an issue if you have removed the fuel vapor charcoal canister. It collects fuel vapor from the tank and circulates it back into the engine. A rubber hose like on that photo is connected to the throttle body. That hose or the brass connector at the throttle body needs to be plugged. It's easiest to plug the hose with a bolt and secure it in place with a hose clamp. You can see that brass nipple on the right side of the throttle body in this pic. Check if it's plugged or if there's still a hose attached check if the end of the hose is open or plugged assuming the evap system has been removed. People have put rubber caps on that brass nipple but those either get lost or deteriorate which will allow air to be sucked in which throws off the fuel map.
 
There are 2 other mistakes in understanding the evap cannister operation people make in removing the evap cannister

The BMS-E firmware leans off the fuel supply slightly when ever it activates the cannister valve so when removing it the fuel supply is continuously pulsing lean, there is no solution to the problem on the TR650

The second is handling of the electrical connection, if left open circuit the BMS-E will generate fault codes or short out the contacts in the electrical connector to the valve, this can result in failure of the BMS-E. The right way to do it is to put a 300 ohm resistor across the contacts so the BMS-E thinks the cannister is still connected & hence does not generate fault codes
 
Wayne,
The 300 ohm resistors I see for sale range in wattage starting at .25w (the cheapest) and moving up from there (.5,1,2,5,10w). For this application would one be better than the other?
thanks
 
you can just leave the valve plugged in although leaving it unplugged didn't have any noticeable effect. I also don't have any idle or other issues with the evap stuff removed.
 
MookieWilson said:
Wayne,
The 300 ohm resistors I see for sale range in wattage starting at .25w (the cheapest) and moving up from there (.5,1,2,5,10w). For this application would one be better than the other?
thanks
Click to expand...

When selecting the power rating for a resistor you use 2 formulae, V=RI & then P=VI

In this case the current through the resistor would be 0.05 amps so power consumed 0.75 watts, a resistor of 1 to 2 watts would be needed, the higher the power rating the lower the resistor temperature when the valve is activated by the BMS-E, one person used 2 x 150 watt resistors in series as it made it easier to install

The goal with the resistor is to use the highest value possible to minimise power consumption but still ensure no fault codes are generated
 
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