The first 20? If the bike is new you may want to skip that. But if you insist on overkill then space the three OCI's more evenly up to your 1000 miles to remove break-in metals. I've seen where BMW recs conventional oil during break-in, yet plenty of bikes ship with full synthetic when new. The bigger issue on the TR is to make sure your chain is properly slacked before riding it home. They come way too tight. Sounds like a good deal on the filters .
Thank you for the advice. I searched for convention oil yesterday and all I could find is 20w50 in the Castrol 4t. Do you think this is will be fine since I will not be really pushing the bike hard and it won't get under 70°f down here in Florida until I change to full synthetic? Also I plan on burpiing the coolant the coolant before I ride just to make sure it does not over heat too.
By the way what I was reading about proper break in is: The motorcycle extremist proper motorcycle break in.. when I find the link I will post. In my experience it makes a lot of sense.
The spacing he recommends is 20,50, 200 then 1200. I did see one person here that waited to the 500 mark and when they drained it looked really black versus dark brown. If I can use the 20w50 the cost of doing all the oil changes with the filters I have is about the same until I switch to synthetic at 1200 miles then change every 3000.
It all looks good on paper. Let me throw another school of thought at you. When machines are new, there are rough edges and machined surfaces. Machined surfaces have a texture, and that is measured based on a roughness. Older engines you disassemble may have a glass like appearance, called glaze. Carbon (from combustion) is an abrasive. Carbon gets past the rings unless they are seated well. In new engines, the rings are not seated, and the cylinder surfaces are "rough" because of the fresh machining. Also new engines have not cycled though heat seasoning. Metal expands and contract from the engine heat, so cycling the engine is actually as important or MORE important to longevity as seating the rings. Two schools on proper break in in regards to seating the rings. Some say run hard, others say not so much, both agree no lugging and no redlining. I guess anything in between is up for interpretation, as my running hard is not abusive, and is healthy for a motor. Back to the heat cycling. If the motor is still heating and contracting and finding its "Steady State", that will affect how the ring seating was done. Now back to your oil, the carbon in the oil, abrasives, and polishing. It is recommended to run mineral based oil over synthetic for what purpose? Now think of what the carbon grits function may be in the oil. In a new motor, that grit may or may not help in the proper setting of the rings, but no less than the running synthetic issues. You could get a 50 gallon drum of oil, hook it up to the bike and run it using all new oil. I could hypothesize that the micro particulates may even be absorbed as "fill" for the lower spots in the machined surface. Metal is porous to an extent, and as the oil and "particulate" permeate the surface, this all helps in the "work hardening" of that surface. What is best? Just tossing how things work at you, I do not know what is best for your bike. I shall now regale you with a story of my youth. An old guy bought his new car and NEVER changed the oil on it. He got appx 100,000 out of it before it died. His theory was this--the cost of oil changes over the life cost more than a new engine. I never did the math, but back then engines were cheaper. Did he ever change his oil? I really don't know. That was his story. Anyway, the heat cycling of the engine is probably as critical or more to the proper break in vs oil. I have read of the stories of peeps and their overheat issues, and to me, that is far worse on a new engine than the oil issues. Years down the road, knowing which bikes ran on the hot edge when new vs those that didn't, would be great information as to longevity of these bikes. So rather than fretting about the oil change, run the bike up to operating temp, run it for a short time, then shut it down and let it cool completely before running again. Do this a few times, and your bike will last longer, leak less and have more power. Metallurgy folks. Work hardening, polishing, stress relief and surface seasoning. There are more parts to the engine than just the rings. Read up on how new airplane engines are broke in, a totally different process for some. And also, if you want more horsepower, you sacrifice longevity and economy. Take a balanced approach. and use the manufacturers advice, you paid them for it.
Thank you for the response Mag00- The article I mentioned on break in is designed in the mannor you were saying no lugging and no redlining. Run the first 20 miles between 2400 and 3600 using the engine to slow you down from time to time. Then let it sit for 20 minutes and then do the same but bring the rpms up another 500. Then drain the oil and let it sit over night next day do 50 miles 25 mile break for 20 minutes. Bring rpms up to about 5200 briefly on the second part of 25 miles. Then just stay with in the 2400-5200 up until 1200 miles then it should be properly broke in. I think this reflect what you were describing. Although my main question is will 20w50 work fine for the break in? In the manual i did see where they recommend 10w50 and I was thinking it was 10w60 so it wont be too far off.
BMW only charges around $5k for their 3 year one that is built into the price. But you do get roadside assistance. $1,500 sounds quite reasonable, if they are in business in that time.
You won't find a 10W60 or 10W50 in conventional (mineral) oil - only synthetic. You'll have to pick between 10W40, 15W40 & 20W50 if you want to use mineral oil. Right or wrong, most people tend to gravitate towards higher vis when left to themselves to select one. This is going to be contrary to what a lot of people think about oil, but at operating temp a typical 15W40 is closer to the mfr rec of 10W50 than a typical 20W50. Just by a hair though. In actuality, at your >70F ambient any would be OK but the XW60 is the furthest away from what the mfr is specifying.
Thank you for the input run-it. For some reason I was thinking the oil Husqvarna recommended was 10w60 synthetic. Downloaded the owners manual yesterday and seen it was 10w50. I debated on 10w40 and 20w50 and as you predicted I went with 20w50 lol. When I got home I thought well it is new so maybe the lighter weight would flow faster but it will get to temperature very quickly because lowest temp here right now is upper 70f and in the mid 80's. When it starts getting colder I should be at the 1000-1200 miles and just change it to 10w50 synthetic. Some times I wish I could be like most people and not over think it and run what ever oil was in for 500 miles change it then do it at 3000 from then on. Although I bought the bike to take my mind of the stresses at work so I guess it is already doing the job!
By the way I get it at 6pm tonight delivered to my office. I will have pictures for the people that requested them. On the weekend I will find some thing better to show the bike where I live maybe a fort in Saint Augustine or swamp in the country lol
Nice! I keep liking the red plastics.... I may have to swap black ones with someone someday.... maybe. Also remember to remove that license plate bracket when you can.
That's what they look like before you spend another 20% of the original purchase price on farkles and stuff !
