Yes, you're right and I won't put the stock cup washers back in there In this point I'm not so sure. RS650R is almost the same bike that the TE630 and so we all hope that SWM have found a solution to all the weak points of the TE630, including the cup washers. That's why a lot of fellows are looking forward to see the RS650S spare parts... to see if some upgrade has been made
I think the clutch bushing is soon ruined because you start the engine with the clutch lever pulled . in this manner the wheel bushing with little lubrication . what do you think of my impression?
Why do you think the clutch bushing gets ruined from starting the motor? You think it doesn't have enough oil on it? Seems a stretch to me. <shrug> Are you a betting man? I don't see that Husqvarna and then SWM are going to see the slipper clutch as any kind of a durability issue. I also don't get where everybody thinks SWM is going to be some kind of miraculous cure-all for the old Italian Husky. I'll believe it when I see it.
I am concerned that in the first moments of operation of the clutch basket turns while the main shaft is stopped . bushing clutch briefly works without oil.
As someone with 16000 miles on the 630, I can say it's not much of an issue if you're using good oil. I replaced the bushing for $24USD at ~8k miles when I pulled the basket to smooth out the fingers. The new bushing had about as much wobble as the old bushing.
Shoutout to XLEnduroMan for giving the information on the clutch cup washer fix for my 610. Photos of the old vs new husky springs (part #800079310) and my old cup washer vs StuJams. XLEnduroMan has more insight on why its also recommended to replace the springs.
I had all my clutch upgraded: 1. Changed the cups with ones that I made on a lathe from hardened steel 2. Changed the brush bushing with a new one, after all it is about 20 bucks 3. Filed the marks on the basket from the disks. 4. Made new actuator from alloy special steel "WNr 1.7225 / DIN 42 CrMo4" For automotive and aircraft components with high toughness as axle journals, gears, tyres, push rods 5. And last but not least, exchanged the cable with an aftermarket hydraulic system. Clutch is really light and I no more have a problem wit broken cables...
John Where did you make the cups?? I'm having problem with cups right now and I want to make cups because Husqy asks 16€ per piece. Sent me PM
Do not use the OEM ones! - a number of guys have had them made up at better spec. Most recently member Cutler 1 See: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-debris-found-in-my-engine-610-630-clutch-issues.16604/page-12 Post 234
Yeah, that is about what mine looked like, maybe not even that bad. The problem is when they get thin and break apart - that is what can cause catastrophic failure. Little bits of metal floating through your motor is not conducive to long life. I did mine at about 6K. It also seems like taking up just a bit more space for the springs tightens it up a bit - seems less noisy on low-torque throttle-ups. Like climbing a hill and such. Getting very thin and out of alignment:
Just replaced mine a couple of weeks ago with the Indy set I have been sitting on but not got around to installing. My bike has an estimated 12K relatively gentle miles on it (on it's 3rd computer). Mine look a lot like drhek's from post #269 above. I can only re-iterate what others have said. You have to replace them or face the obvious eventual consequences. S1
I'm curious. How many have reported a catastrophic consequence because of the broken cup washers? I mean: there are a lot of people who have showed their "worn out or even broken" cup washers... and they have found debris in the magnetic plug. But how many have suffered a engine break because of the broken cup washers?
I am about to pull my clutch to see what the rattling is about. Who makes the cup washers? someone mentioned Cutler 1 but I didn't find that name on a member search. Also do you need a special tool to hold the basket when retorqing? Thanks!
What kind of rattling are you experiencing? Mine- when I release the clutch lever (in neutral, at idle) is making a rattling noise. Guessing my basket bearing is about shot (hope that's all it is.) This is my second bearing- it's been in there for about 6K. On the clutch holder tool... Yeah, you can get a special took for that but all I used was a nylon strap (wrapped it around to hold it in place.) Not sure what to tell you about the new washers...not sure who is making them these days.
A gloved hand and an impact wrench also works.I didn't even drain the oil, just laid 'er over. Took a couple of hours, could do it again in about half that time. I thought there were a couple of sources up-thread here? Just read back through the pages. Somebody was making them on demand from tool steel.
