My bike doesn't want to go into neutral. I have the updated shift rod I'm putting in tonight. I also have a noticeable rattle that goes away when the clutch is pulled in. 4500 miles on my bike. CJBrown, does the glove and impact work to tighten the clutch basket? I figured impact will remove but I wasn't sure about retorqing it back on. I will comb the back pages and see if I can find who is producing the new spring cups. Thanks!
Last night I went to change out the clutch rod and it had already been updated. I was replacing it because my bike doesn't want to go into neutral at a stop. I also frequently get false neutral lights. Since the clutch rod was done I decided to change the oil. The previous owner put in royal purple 10-40. I put in 20-50 Valvoline and the neutral problem is noticeably better but still not perfect.(still some clutch drag) Are these bikes really sensitive to oil type? I saw a thread recommending golden spectro 10-60. Suggestions?
You know, I can't remember on the basket nut, I may have just put it in gear and stepped on the brake. Or maybe I stuck a screwdriver in the gear. Mine wasn't that tight. Or maybe I did that putting it back on. Sorry. Maybe track down Indy's instructions. Clutch drag has always been an issue with this one. If you blip the throttle and then drop it to neutral that works pretty well. IMO 10-60 is too heavy. I've always run amsoil 20-50 and virtually no drag. I tried that same oil in my new GSW and it didn't work so well so I went back to Rotella t6 (5-40). Since it's so popular I decided to change out the husky with it too. Seems to work the same, same clutch drag and everything. LOL. $20 at walmart. I think it's less a function of oil and just the clutch basket spinning in there. Try the throttle blip or hit neutral before you roll to a stop.
Getting into neutral while sitting dead still has always been an issue with Husky gearboxes, mine takes some rocking to get it into neutral without jumping to 2nd. The easy way is to click into neutral just before you actually stop. I run Castrol RS 4T 10W50 btw, it gives me the best oil life of anything I've run, you can tell when the oil starts breaking down in these bikes by the way it shifts.
I purchased one of the first new 1999 TE610e dual sports. At 1,200 miles the valves were clacking. Way out of adjustment. The dealer found the two fowl pin holes for the oil pump were drilled too deep and the oil pump star housing turned cutting off the oil to the head. I refused to take the bike back. The first problem was the half moon on the shifter guide for the pawns it was too small of an arc. I never got to ride the 610 off road the dealer purchased the bike back. I had words with fast by ferrachi too the man himself. Thank god I didn't sell my left kickers.
What does everyone think about changing the springs when you change the washers? Also how many people have changed the clutch springs when changing the washers? Also I thought I had read they had updated the springs and were a bit beefier now.
No spring change here. Just finished the western portion of the Trans America Trail on my 630, including the return trip via Interstate. No problems at all whether on the trail or at 75-80 on the Interstate. I have Indy's spring cups.
Just pulled my clutch off for a worn bush on my TE 630 and noticed that the springs have been fretting so I sourced another clutch basket. Problem is the replacement clutch basket (on the Right) has a gear and my original one (on the left) does not- has anyone come across this before ?
It is an appendage from the kick start era. Should work fine. I've an older 610 with both e and kick. Some of the kicker components were removed before I bought it because something went wrong and stripped some of those teeth.
The clutch basket with the gear is an update most likely. With this gear, the clutch basket also moves with the balancing counterbalance as well as with the rotation of the crankshaft
sorry rotax_655 scduster is correct it is the basket for the kick starter version. But you have no broblem usinf it since there is no intermediate gear or a kickstarter to mess with it and create any problem.
It is a leftover from the kickstart era, correct. My early 2006 had the basket with the gear. from the factory. Had to replace the hole basket and got a new one from the dealer without the gear.
UPDATE August 2017: For those who are still in need of the new and improved cup washers Cutler 1 still has them available . . . . . See: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-debris-found-in-my-engine-610-630-clutch-issues.16604/page-12 Post 234
Mine looks fine after 23.000 km. Only one of them has 0,8mm thickness instead of 1,00. Not an issue . BTW, is there any problem with those notches? Maybe you would also interested into read this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te...-becomes-abrupt-in-tough-terrain.87584/page-2
The notches are from spring contact - can be cleaned up when you split the basket. You can't really see the wear 'till you remove them, sometimes you'll see a wear notch from the plate on the ends of the springs - the outside surface of the washer. I have YET to see any that were NOT worn. The problem, especially that thin one, is when they wear far enough through, and they will, then they come apart and go through your motor - grenading it. So yeah, you need to replace the stock ones with aftermarket tool-steel ones for a permanent fix. You're right about the miles where you're reaching the high-risk point - 23K is about 12K miles. Get a set of them and do the update - you'll rest easy for the rest of it's life. It will also quiet the slipper action with the thicker washers which adds to the spring tension and reduces chatter. Mine never chattered after the spring cup washer replacement.
motrangui, I disagree with you thinking that yours look fine. As you are aware of the impending carnage with the red highlights. That metal that used to be there on the clutch assembly IS now/has been flowing around inside your engine. I strongly suggest you (and an every owner of this engine) stop rolling the dice, and upgrade the clutch cup washers and if possible springs to the newer/thicker oem springs (that drhek mentions earlier in this thread). Or you could end up like me, with a near cosmetically flawless TE 630 with a touch over 10,000 miles on it, with a motor that sounds like its going to come apart at any time. I have a little $1,000 box sitting on my desk with just bottom end parts. all new oem case bearings/seals/con rod kit. I still need to buy top end parts and some more tools. Minus the crank work, I plan to do all the wrenching myself. It will cost me $1,500 to $2,000 complete. I do not wish this on anyone. It would cost only a tenth of this to properly upgrade the clutch assembly and not have to worry about the engine. It's a great bike, with a flawed clutch assembly. Just fix it A.S.A.P! and rev!
