Thanks, Coffe, I'll take a look. In fact I'm pretty surprised at that wearing, I've got less than 9k miles.
A cush hub or even cush sprocket is what the 610/630s should have come with. I have ridden my two 610s only a total of 13000 miles but I can definitely feel the difference after installing a Kush sprocket recently. I have never felt comfortable riding on asphalt or concrete, but now the bike feels good there. I have no idea how long the sprocket will last and think a cush hub would be the best for making a 610/630 live a long life if it is used on hard surfaces often.
Just got my 41t Kush sprocket on my SMS today, we'll see how it does tomorrow. Got lucky and didn't need a new chain to go from 38T to 41T
I’ve contacted the company again and told them my intention, but, again, they told me that they have to know exactly the alloy of the clutch housing to tell me whether it can be treated, because some elements burn when electricity goes through them. I thought that they needed to know it only for the other treatment. They can’t recognize the alloy simply looking at it and if they treat the part and the alloy isn’t suitable, they will damage it irremediably. So, the mechanic is going to reassemble the clutch using the modified cups I showed in the message #152, but the clutch housing won’t be treated. I and the mechanic think that the wearing was not caused by abrasion, but by compression; I hope that the material has been compacted and that it won’t have play any more. I don’t think that it’ll last much, so I’ll keep it under control. If it happens again, I’ll replace the clutch. EDIT: The mechanic's given me back the clutch and I've tried it: the bike works well.
Hi all. Please bear with me here...little exp pulling clutches, etc....always learning and all that. Got a question for you. 630 w/ 6500 miles on it. This evening I finally began pulling the basket/primary gear to get my washers taken care of. Just took it down to the main/big nut- will pick up the socket to get that off this weekend. So anyway I go to break the first of the 6 pressure plate bolts loose from the assembly and, when I wrenched the bolt loose (doesnt take much force, of course), the basket/primary gear turned counter clockwise about 1-1.5", turning other gears too, slightly. It happened suddenly but smoothly and quietly (no sound of timing chain, jumping tooth or anything.) Is this a problem? It wouldn't turn back (clockwise) easily so I didn't push it. Bike was/is in neutral, btw. Also- does it matter that I also, later, inadvertently spun the clutch hub (not much) inside of the basket? I do of course realize I have to affix a basket holder when I break the main nut loose...just didn't pause to think about holding the assembly still before I got to that point...duh. Thanks!
If I have understood well, you have made the clutch basket and the clutch hub spinning a little. They both spin making thousands of revolutions every minute, when the engine works, so that's not a problem! The basket always spins counter clockwise, while the hub usually spins counter clockwise, but it spins clockwise if you move the bike backwards while the clutch is disengaged. To remove the main nut, first of all you have to bend this tab: Then, you will be able to easily spin the nut without a basket holder if yo use an impact wrench.
Many thanks Theo. So two things here (granting I'm learning that I have no business trying these things. To begin yes- the actual basket (not the inner hub) turned counter clockwise about 1-1.5 inches thereby turning other gears/engine internals- so my fear is that I screwed up the timing of the engine or something (but again it was smooth and quiet, no jumping teeth sounds or anything odd.) So far your feedback helps to put my mind at ease. Should be OK then? Next- this pertains to the actuator/bearing/shims and more specifically the push rod. When the pressure plate comes off you see these and they must be removed/slid off the push rod to expose the washer and big hub nut. So they did slide out easily, of course, and in doing so the push rod came with it a little- and won't go back in all the way. In your picture I see that the end of your push rod is recessed- it is set back so that it's end is inside and behind the face of the nut. Mine sticks out (about 1 cm) and I can't seem to fiddle it back in as far as yours is. Advice on this anyone? I do not have a compressor and impact gun- am hoping a strap of leather belt may work. I do know not to use a screwdriver through the splines of the basket- big no no. Really hoping I'll be able to get that nut loose. Is it counter clockwise ("lefty loosey") to remove? Shop manual doesn't specify- odd. Also- to newbies like myself doing this...keep aware of the oil pump drive shaft. When i pulled my side cover I laid it flat to drain oil out and the shaft fell out. Upon reinstall of the side cover you absolutely must ensure that you have it oriented correctly so that it mates with the receiving end on the primary gear shaft. In reading about this last night I've seen tohers who did not get the orientation correct either resulting in a broken lobe on the primary shaft or a knackered oil pump.
Yes, don't worry. Maybe this shaft: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/sudden-slack-in-clutch-lever.19101/#post-166450 is holding the rod out. Try to gently pull it towards the left side of the bike, until the cluth cable stops its stroke. That happened to me: I got it welded: To avoid that bad issue, align the shafts like that:
Thanks again man- appreciate it. Mine is a 630 with hydraulic clutch. Guess I might have to pull the slave cylinder from the other side of bike to try to figure this out. Ha- It was your past posts and pics that helped me learn about the oil pump shaft importance...didn't recall that was you. Sorry to see you had that headache but glad you were able to get it welded. Thanks for posting your experience to help others.
I'm glad to have been helpful! I forgot about the hydraulic clutch. Anyway, the point is that when you disengage the clutch pressing the clutch lever, the rod is pushed outwards, so I imagine that the rod doesn't come back because the disengagement mechanism is holding it out. I don't know exactly how the hydraulic system pushes the rod, so I hope that some 630 owner can tell you how to check if it's pushing the rod now.
If anybody needs clutch washers, that i was testing and i made them with few improvements...let me know. CONTACT ME. Price? 40€+shipping
helo please can you send me pichters how its look, Thanks , and also shiping to israel how much its cost?
Here's what mine look like at 6,500 miles. Some not too bad, some severely thin...to the point of being concerned some shed some shards (though I think it's been caught in the nick of time.) Indy is doing this- I'll post back with the condition of them outta the basket. Sorry for poor quality pics.
Received mine back from Indy yesterday- top notch service (back in my hands w/in a week.) Huge thumbs up to Dan. Great to be getting this taken care of- won't feel like sitting on a time bomb issue. Supposed to receive my bushing any day and then will get it buttoned up (and on to other winter maintenance to-do's of course.) So- same message as so many other posters: check those cup washers.
Does anyone know how much he charges for these clutch spring washers? Looks lime I might need a set myself...and only 2800 miles.
All told...if I'm recalling correctly...it cost me 140 total (breakdown being 50 for new cup washers, 70 labor and 20 for shipping.) For someone not experienced with doing this kind of thing, well worth the money.
I have a question about the clutch basket bushing and the rebuild process. How do you know if the bushing is "worn" and needs replacement?
Take the clutch plates out and if the basket has more than a tiny bit of wobble on the shaft when you try to rock it by hand, you might as well replace it while you're in there.
Do you know if replacing the bushing helps with the clutch drag? I can't even push my bike with the clutch pulled while it's in gear unless the motor is hot. And on flat ground, it slowly wants to creep forward when it's running... has the Harley thunk when you shift into first gear...
