How to check your valve clearances pictorial

Do it, do it, do it

I think the 29mm shims are what the old BMW 650 engines used before the twin spark head and switch to shim under bucket design.

Someone with low miles should check their clearances to see what they are set at from the factory. Who knows, maybe mine haven't moved that much? We'll just have to wait and see @12k miles.

Just seen the BMW GS 650 Valve check, removal is just as involved as the Husky!

OK just looked again, maybe not as bad

Not sure that you can go by someone else's bike. I imagine that if the valves are within tolerance the bike goes out the door. I think that each bike varies.

that lot looks like the dealers licence to print cash ........
looks like I have some saving to do .

just checked service schedule ....every 10,000 km ..... that's gonna be twice a year , maybe there is a flaw in this bike .

I would tell him as the user, and purchaser, that you lived up to your responsibility and have determined that the filter is not working properly. NOW FIX IT!!!

In a mad rush between changing the oil in my wife's car, and welding on horse trailers this morning, I got the Terra somewhat put back together. While on the lift with no body panels, I put the computer back in and started it. It took a few cranks then slowly fired up. Not sure why it took a few seconds to start, but it is running again.

Now its off to work and a 4 day weekend in Tucson.

Next week will be time to for everything else: new chain, sprockets, rear tire, fix the front tube and finish fabbing up some racks.

Well, I was bored, I guess, and dismantled most of my bike to see what it's really like. I went as far as freeing the air box so that it was no longer connected to anything. That's a fair bit, but I didn't get into disconnecting anything from the engine itself. I wanted to get a good feel for it so I could make an educated decision later on whether to find a (distant) shop to do it, or try myself.

After getting far enough to disconnect the airbox from the frame, you really are hoping that the airbox can weasel its way out of there somehow. No can do.

So, I walked around the bike for a while and just contemplated how in the world did they assemble the thing, then?!

I think someone commented here that maybe the back subframe can pivot back and so I looked closer at that idea. Sure enough, I think it seems extremely plausible that it wouldn't be all that bad to make the subframe pivot with most everything in it.

First I looked at the bottom subframe mount. Notice how the shape of the main frame mounting point just so happens to facilitate pivoting here? Both sides are like this.



Then I looked over everything and tried to figure out what all would have to be additionally finagled to spread her open.

I didn't find much.

A) Disconnect the exhaust just down stream of the oxygen sensor. Maybe you'd have to remove the exhaust on a Strada like mine because the ABS break lines look close, but I bet a Terra would be just fine.



B) Disconnect the fuel line from the pump. I can't figure this connector out. Anyone know how this thing gets disconnected?



C) Remove all the fuses, relays, ecu, etc, from their holding area so that the wiring harness can be finagled out while spreading open. This stuff is almost tool less, it's so easy. I think the ecu is the only thing actually screwed down.



D) Remove the 2 upper subframe mounting bolts (1 each side), and the 2 bolts (1 each side) holding the fuel tank to the main frame on the sides.

(picture not allowed in the same message, but these 4 bolts are very obvious)

I think that would be it. Then, I bet, you could pretty simply pivot the subframe open, allowing the airbox to be removed easily. This is, of course, after you get to the point that the airbox is disconnected from its mountings.

I could easily see this being the method of assembly, and therefore the method of disassembly. I couldn't figure out the fuel line connector, or I may have tried to actually do it. Of course, the bike is still disassembled, so if someone knows how that fuel connector works, maybe I'll still have a go at it.

ughhh

Just looking at it, and assuming that the white moulding to the right of the fuel line is an identical connector, then I'd say try turning the black ring counter-clockwise.

From the service manual:

Fuel supply hose inspection and replacement
- Remove the saddle as described in the relevant paragraph.
- Check fuel supply hose (1) conditions; if cracked, swollen, kinked, etc. it is
necessary to change it as follows:
- Press the ring nut (2) and unfasten the union (3).
- Open the clamps (4) and detach the pipe (1) from the unions (3) and (5).
During this operation, make sure that you do not damage the hose holder coupling on the throttle body.
- Replace the pipe (1) and close the clamps (4) on unions (5) and (3). - Refit the union (3) by pressing it down.

It makes a little more sense with the pics, but I'm posting from my phone... So it the best I can do.

Searching the service manual, it just completely skips removing the airbox.
Thank you all who are looking into this, we will all benefit.

Thanks, I didn't think to look in the service manual for that. They make it sound trivial. I was pressing that thing all sorts of ways with no progress. Looking at this picture it seems a downward press on 2 sides. I'll look at it again and see if anything happens.

Yep, press the ring nut and unfasten the union. I had a little difficulty pressing and pulling on the union at the same time and ended up using needle nose pliers to press on the nut easier with one hand so that my other hand could pull on the union. Ultimately, pretty easy. I'm just glad it doesn't take some specialty tool like I was thinking. Well, should I tackle that exhaust this weekend and see how hard that is?

EDIT: Easily done tool-less, no pliers required.

You nailed it.

They should put that in the service manual. It follows the spirit of the manual perfectly.

This single screw is the cause of several unnecessary steps. Once you do this part once, I recommend changing this screw to one with a hex head so a wrench can be used next time. I found a perfect replacement with a hex head at my local Ace in the standard bulk bins.