To be honest, I would be incredibly interested in seeing the assembly instructions for a TR650 aka Rubics Cube.
Good tip. I think I'll do mine "pre" valve adjust. With the EPA crap and canister removed, you can actually get at it fairly easily from below and behind the radiator. Now, looking at my bike (and remembering a "rumor" I read somewhere in my research for this bike), what about tipping the motor forward in the frame? It looks like it will just fall forward once free from the air box and throttle body. Sounds better that messing with all the wining in the tail.
So far in my looking at the bike as far as I've gotten, I'd say it would be easier to open her up from the top. The fuses, ecu, etc. wiring really isn't anything serious. All those things just slip off their holders and can probably just stay connected to the harness itself. Won't know 'till I try, but the wiring part, I think, is the last thing to worry about. Mean while, trying to disconnect all the crap off the engine, including fluid containing hoses, before being able to tilt the engine seems like a much more difficult job to me, especially since you would have a hard time getting in there with that dang airbox still in the way. Again, I haven't done the tail part yet, so this is just my thoughts at the moment, and is worth what you paid for it.
I think if it came to actually adjusting the valves, I would probably just part the bike out since it would already be completely disassembled. Then buy another Terra or 690 Enduro R.
But seriously, here's a picture of how I lined up the gears. With the gears like this, I was able to get the following measurements. Intake between 0.006 and 0.007 inches. Exhaust between 0.016 and 0.017 inches. Now, I double checked these, then triple checked these, then checked the feeler gauges I was using with a micrometer. Then checked again. Is this not the opposite of what would be expected for a bike with only 800 miles on it? I am confused.
I believe I was turning mine clockwise, but not 100% on that. One way turned a lot easier that the other so i went with that direction. For only 800 miles something is wrong, unless somehow these clearances expand with wear?
I added a picture regarding how to remove the fuel line from the fuel pump. How to check your valve clearances pictorial
Some random notes from my experience. Overall the process is very lengthy, but not particularly difficult. I mean, everything was pretty reasonably accessible, except that front air box mounting screw. You also aren't on your back looking up trying to get your already bloody hands into some new crevice to reach some bolt like on a new car. Definitely not for the faint of heart, but easily possible from a home garage over the course of a weekend. You do need a pretty good set of tools, simply because of the vast quantity of items you'll be touching. Torx 25 will be your new best friend, get a nice one. Torx 30, 40, and 45 also. I didn't need anything particularly special, though. I did need a universal joint to get at the exhaust manifold bolts with a socket wrench. Aside from finagling around to get the air box screw out, the only other thing that was a bit tricky was getting the exhaust manifold pipe off and especially back on. Taking it off was slightly difficult because the y pipe it connects to keeps a pretty good hold on it. Putting it back on was harder because the y pipe isn't completely solid when pushing the manifold pipe back in. I found that instead of pushing the pipes together only, it helped a lot to push up and down, then back and forth also. The other trick is to leave the manifold gasket off until you almost have the pipe all the way in its position, and only then weasel the gasket on the manifold pipe. Otherwise the gasket just constantly falls and distracts from the task at hand. I did find a 14mm hex socket that works in the crankshaft plug. This was in a 3 pack of large hex sockets at autozone, marketed as transmission plug and drain sockets. However, I found a much easier method of turning the crankshaft. Just put the bike in a high gear and rotate the back tire. Another advantage to this method is then you can rotate the engine and see the marks on the gears at the same time. Disconnecting the electrical stuff at the back was a touch more complicated than I hoped because the harness is one piece all the way to the license plate illumination light. So, in addition to slipping all the fuse blocks and relays off their holders, you must pull the license plate light out of its holder. Then remove the top tail plastic (2 screws plus tail rack removal) and disconnect all three connectors. Keep track of which turn indicator connector is which, because they looked identical to me. The right hand turn indicator seemed to have some white tape, while the other did not. White = right. This also applied to the spark plugs. You shouldn't need to undo any other tail plastic. This should give the harness plenty of slack to allow the subframe to pivot backwards. In my previous post you can see the subframe pivoted. It doesn't actually move all that much, maybe a few inches is all. I did remove more of the plastic when I did it because I wasn't quite sure what all I was doing yet. I ended up fiddling around with 1 screw in the underside vented plastic longer than I wanted because the nut will rotate on you when putting it back together. So, I recommend not taking it off at all and just sliding the license light wire through the gap as far as it will go and that should be plenty of slack. There's also a noteworthy washer that's easy to lose. The right hand side fuel tank to main frame mount has a washer that sits against the main frame. This washer just fell to the ground after removing the screw, so pay attention. It is annoying to try and get this back in between the mount and the main frame and I was really tempted to just leave it out when reassembling. I couldn't quite figure out why it was there anyway because the rubber mount already has a metal surface on the inside. I had the thought that it might possibly be there to prevent a dissimilar metals problem since I believe the rubber mount metal is aluminum and the frame is steel. The loose washer is steel and could help with corrosion problems there. Just a theory, but enough to make myself get it back in there. Reassemble this side first to have a little more side to side play in the tank. I was also happy that I did not have to deal with any fluids. The manual says you should drain the oil from the chassis tank. That particular hose is a little in the way of removing the valve cover, so you can drain and disconnect it if you wish to have more room. But, I was able to finagle the hose around the valve cover okay with it still connected. This is a touch harder on a Strada because the ABS brake lines also run right there. During this puzzle, I realized that Husqvarna left out an item in the service schedule. Every 10000km be sure to check the torque of every screw and bolt on your bike. I guess since they put the valve clearance check in there they imply the other.
I have a minor question about my reassembly and was hoping someone could take a look at their exhaust manifold studs for me. After getting the nuts torqued down, there are still no threads of the stud sticking out after the nuts. The end of the studs are even with the edge of the nut. This wasn't something I took special note of before disassembly, so I'm wondering if anyone else can look to see if theirs are like this. Thanks.
I'll look tomorrow morning for you. Mine is still sitting on the lift, I drained the oil out of it and called it a night.
Yes, my nuts are almost flush with the stud too. That's a comment just begging to be taken out of context.
hasenpfeffer, Great work, you are a lot braver than I am. All the removal/disconnection of the electrics was for slack in the wire harness so the fuel tank/subframe could pivot, right? Did you pivot the tank and subframe together as a unit or separately? Do you still think as much needed to be undone, or could you get away with less? What did you do about the tight intake? Did you re-shim?
