I queried this with the factory recently and was told categorically to use the fully synthetic oil from day one... Dave
I use a mix of about 1l of dino and the rest synthetic. No problems in any of my bikes and I have tried a couple of brands of fancy synthetic MC oil, none shifted as nice as the Rotella and all cost a $hit load more than the Rotella from wally world.
It's starting to get colder here so next oil change I'll go from 10/60 (which Husky recommended) to 10/40, but I'll stay synthetic. Most of the work I do is pretty open so the bike doesn't get stupidly hot anyway.
castrol the A747 oil is still sold. vanleween dist has it. you will also find it at better kart shops. don't forget karts are still running 2T's ....
Anyone tried the Lucas Oil 10/40 syn=blend motorcycle oil? Got some for Christmas...anygood...or good enough for a ride or two, dump and fill with Rotella syn. Thoughts?
My book says 10w/40 in my WR 300 2010. I personally use Amalie oils. I use Amalie X-Treme 4T SG 10/40 in the gearbox and Synplus 2T 20w20in the fuel at 3-3,5% depending on type of riding. I also reuse the gearbox oil one time. I leave it standing for a few weeks so all particles sink to the bottom of the bottle and reuse the clean oil. There is no way that the oil itself can be bad in 6-8 hours riding. As long as the dirt is out it´s fine for me! The oil is absolutely clear after about two weeks and with the magnetic plug it´s as good as it can get i guess. Johnny
The bottom line is.....If you have a fetish for high dollar oils in fancy bottles by all means buy it. But if you just want good protection for your bike, Rotella T will do the job and be easy on the wallet.
Holy cow Batman, another oil thread! We gotta nail this sucker! Laugh if you want to, but oil never wears out...that is the base oil never wears out. It does get dirty and the additives package will wear out or loss many of their properties causing your 10w-40 to become 10w-25 and If oil gets too hot it can evaporate or turn to sludge, but the base oil remains intact from what I have read. I really don't see why we are allowed to toss oil away as we do today. It is such an expensive product and mankind wages wars over it, yet we pour this black gold out each day... This practice should be illegal.
Does anybody know what exactly Husqvarna is recommending for 2010 models now? There was a press release about having an agreement with Castrol but I don't know what they did about it. Can't find a 2010 owner's manual online to look at.
Engine, gearbox and primary drive lubricating oil CASTROL POWER 1 RACING 10W-50 This is from my txc's manual.
Thank you. Interesting. I'm having a hard time finding this oil in 10W-50, although I'm looking only out of curiosity and I am okay with running whatever oil seems prudent in my own bike.
Interesting story ... What we all need is a portable way to clean our oil ... What is this conditioning unit are you referring to?
Oil is just oil .... Car oil and diesel have different additives added to each to make it a 'car' oil or a 'diesel' oil or a 'motorcycle' oil ... They all start with a base oil and then the additives are added ... Motorcycles happen to need about the same care internally as a diesel engine, so their additive packages work well for our bikes ... http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
If anybody in the UK wants Castrol 10w50 be sure to buy it from our sponsor Nielsen CDG. http://www.nielsencdg.co.uk/acatalo...Power_1_4T_10w-50_Fully_Synthetic_Oil_1L.html The company is based in wales and they stock most Castrol bike products. We've used Castrol in all our bikes for over 20 years with no problems, great oil!
'Fully Synthetic' ... this is almost comical as castrol was the one who first labeled dino oil as synthetic in the 90s ....
I believe he is referring to a centrifugal separator commonly used to purify oil and fuel for large industrial diesel or heavy fuel engines. They use centrifugal action to separate the light hydrocarbons from the heaver water,carbon and dirt,etc. to recycle the oil or for ultra clean fuel. As an example: A large diesel engine on a ship usually has one litre of oil per horsepower produced. A 10,000 hp engine has 10,000 l of oil. An oil change costs about $20,000 not including labor or filters! As a result this oil never gets changed nor does it need too, instead the oil is circulated through the purifier and returns to engine as good as new while the engine is stopped or running! These purifiers are not suitable for multigrade oils and require several hundred litres for operation. As for our measly 2 to 4 litre engines we can help the environment by avoiding unnecessary oil changes (For the anal after every ride group, Please, give the drain plug a break) and drop off the used oil to a recycle depot or garage. This oil is returned to refineries for reprocessing or is burned in industrial boilers to produce energy.
For the record, I have used Castrol oil in non-MC applications for the last 5 decades. It works awesome as far as I am concerned. Of course I might have had equally good luck with other brands, I'll never know.
If he is tearing into these engines a lot then the Diesel oils are not exactly doing a good job are they ????? I think I will stick with my synthetic motorcycle racing oils.
