I'm getting around 51-52 MPG now I'm not too worried about millage as long as the bike does what i want it to. Besides now days Gas is the cheapest thing you can buy for your bike
Sounds great to me. On a side note: I am going to be extremely happy when we get updated software for cafe husky which will have a 'bike' field, and I will make that show with every post under the avatar.. Unless I dig through your other posts I've no idea what bike you have.
Research is fun and interesting, thanks for the research. However, isn't the autotune kind of doing automatically vs what yor doing manually only without the gain in knowledge?
Doug W yes this is correct, but you can also go back and look at the autotune maps that it created and still get the knowledge. I am a tuner/engine man and i got the ibeat mainly for the diagnostic's of the ECU system and to have the ability to work on other Husky's in my business
This is true but my understanding is that on '08s FB2 and FB3 are accessible but do not do anything. Only FB1 actually does anything. As I recall, Coffee put an '08 on a dyno and confirmed that fact. Dyno charts with A/F ratio are in old posts on this site.
I still cant fathom why the ECU be sent to a tuner and tables adjusted then sent back. if the tuner has the same bike.. Would like detailed info on why? pcv comes pre loaded vortex ecu is pre set with 10 maps.. car tuners do it all day. please explain and clarify...
There is nothing wrong with pre set maps they are usually pretty close and can get the job done Plug, Play and ride, if the way the bike starts ,revs ,pulls makes you happy then you are home free, you could send your ECU to a tuner with the same bike and have them set it up just like his or hers and you might be ok, weather it would be optimized for your bike is a different story. I've seen two of the same race bikes with the same equipment on the same dyno on the same day and for both of them to be optimized to put out the most power or torque there ECU's had different tune up's on each one. There are many reasons for this, the main reason is there are no 2 bikes that are the same one might have a fresh motor and put out the advertised compression ratio of 12:9:1 and one might have a motor with 50 hours of racing on it and the rings and cylinder walls worn and not as much compression , one bike's sensors might all be sending the correct voltages to the ECU and the other might have a faulty water temp sensor and is sending bogus info to the ECU that can effect timing and fueling , There are lots of things that can make bikes different I dont know what kind of issues you are having with your bike. NASA has a saying that one test is worth a thousand opinions. From my own experience i can say this: This is where the violin music starts to play and the crying towel comes out,Ever since i was a little kid i always wanted a Husqvarna I thought they were so cool, I had read so much about them and the quality of the workmanship the handling and the awesome power man i wanted one. Well it only took me 60 years to get one but better late than never. I hooked up my dirt bike trailer and on memorial day this year i headed out to Minnesota to pick up my new 2010 510SMR 1600 miles round trip The bike had the power up done by the dealer and it was put on i beat and set up and ready to go, after i paid for the bike i rode it a round a little, i was imitated to say the least it was light and sounded powerful wow, it's a husky. After i got the bike home i checked every thing out and every thing looked OK,i started the break in process taken it easy on the bike checked the valves and changed the oil at 300 miles the more i rode the smr the more relaxed i became with it, after the wow factor wore off and the second valve check and oil change at 600 miles and tightened up all the fasteners i thought to my self this thing does not run right something is just not there, it would flame out hard to start had to use the cold start knob had surges thought out the rpm range, i then decided to open up the stock mufflers to let it breath for a start, a lot of the threads i had read said to just put the miles on it and it would get better that they all ran poorly when they are new. thats when i decided to hook up the old lc-1 and see what the air fuel ratio looked like , well it wasn't pretty the A/F ratio was all over the place i thought wow this sucks for a fuel injection bike ,a friend of mine has a 06 with a fcr on it and it blast's, I felt like the red headed step child. A another friend of mine who is a KTM super freak said go to café husky and you will find wisdom there grasshopper, off i went, From what i could gather that i was not alone a lot of the same issues on the F/I bikes flame outs, bog off idle surging and in general just poor performance, I was not discouraged because some people said that there bikes ran so good and were so scary fast that they might have to DE tune them just for safety sake,well i new the answer had to be somewhere from the A/F/R gage i could tell the fueling wasn't right, my options were to buy a PCV with auto tune or a JD 6X tuner which i am sure would have done a fine job I even told my friend the KTM SUPER FREAK that Dude if i cant get this thing worked out i am going to put a FCR MX 41 with a power now power now plus and a merge adjustable leak jet on this Bitch Man, Then I went to see another friend who owns EXTREME PERFORMANCE Cycle and Dyno tune, and he said you must climb the mountain grasshopper and can not give up on the Mikuni it is your destiny. In steps Scott from semco I ordered the ibeat 2 day delivery complete phone support what a deal.The first chance i got i hooked it up but not before my 1000 mile oil change first things first. WOW look at that screen all those gages i am in husky heaven ,the first thing i checked was the TPS it was off at 101.7% at WOT, what i read on CH it should be 100.2 to 100.4 for a 450/510, I had to do the hard stop adjustment that i read about by this dude called MATT on CH ,I started the bike and noticed that it started up much Mo Better i went for a ride and it seemed to run a little better, don't get me wrong even at a tune that was off the bike would still scare ya, after all it's a Husqvarna, then i came back to the shop and i could not wait to hook up the i beat and check the co settings i noticed the A/F ratio was still all over the place something still not right,much to my surprise when i opened the co window all the settings were at 100%, I thought wait a minute, i had the power up done and they reset the co settings if fact, just before i left the dealer the tech said that he might ought to lean it out a little cause he thought he might of went too rich cause i told i was going to open up the cans,I could not understand why the co settings were all at 100% so i changed them co1 101.5 co2 102 co3 102 and went out for more testing,well it ran better no flame outs a little stumble off idle and that was it, I thought I'm home free but the A/F ratio gage was still jumping around too much, so i rode the bike a few more days to give me a break,then the other morning i thought man i think i will check the fb settings just to see whats up,pulled out the LC-1 wide band O2 sensor and the race connector and plugged in the stock narrow band sensor so i could bring up the fb settings, and there they were, fb1 at 109% fb2@ 103% and fb3@ 103% and the work shop manual says the fb settings must all be at 100%,I thought wow the dealer must have set the fb instead of the co for the power up,O well no biggie i set the fb settings all to 100% as per the manual took the stock O2 sensor out back in with the race plug and back in with the LC-1 wide band O2 sensor and more testing Hit the go button and fired right up the engine sounded different like a Ducati monster with a dry clutch i thought Man this could be it ,off for the test No stumble off idle no surge, more torque and power every where and most of all the A/F gage was now stable stayed in the 12.5 to 13.3 range all the time, today i went for a test this morning to see if everything was still cool and the bike ran the same as yesterday, All i know is that with out the ibeat I would not of been able to set the TPS correctly I would not of known if the fb settings were all wrong and i would not have been able to correct everything with out the right tool ( Scott send the check to BC Racing) Now i must go and change the oil and filter it now has 1500 miles and ruining great. More testing tomorrow. (Peace and may the force be with you.)
miles per gallon is directly related to your right hand at 12.5 to 13.3 AFR today i got 51 MPG put ten around the back roads at 55 mph
How much is just the pretty little gauge with the wide band sensor from Innovate. I don't want their software, I just want to see the readout on the led on the handlebars.
Yes That is the strange thing when i set the fb settings all to 100% like they are suppose to be thats when everything really came toughter ,the air fuel warmed up, at idle 13.3 and the rest of the throttle range 12.5 at cruse, where before it would bounce around now it sets on 12.5
I don't think I could help you that much cause to my understanding the 08 you can only adjust the fb1 setting but i can look into it further If you are not happy with the LC-1 I'm sure you could sell it easy I think if I were in your boat I would go with a updated ECU that is more adjustable In the special parts catalog there is a ECU for a 450RR or 530RR that might be worth looking in to part number 8000H 1086
Couple of things from my experience with a 09 TE510 1) optimum TPS setpoint provides full throttle of 100.2% - not 102%. This should put the idle position 1011 to 1016mV on my TPS. 2) optimum idle air bleed screw position is 2 3/4 turns out plus minus 1/2 turn. This results in a hot idle 1950-2100rpm. Using this screw to set idle rpm rather than off-idle throttle response did not work. (powered - up) Right click on my user name and read my posts - but the SMR ECU may not use the same setup reference points as the TE version. This is an important point because i completed a tune on my bike using the Husky race ECU/exhaust insert and the TPS setpoints/screw position etc did not work - and the different ECU completely changed the personality of the bike. (aggressive initial timing curve and accelerator pump emulation is my opinion) If you really want to optimize the non-powered up/02 sensor in tune - use the long-term adaptation tables in ibeat. For myself the stock ECU's o2 sensor lazy timing curve made the compromises too great vs powered up. With the stock TE exhaust system, the 02 sensor required the mid-pipe baffle to operate consistantly - especially on overrun and small throttle openings. Since i found clay stains in the midpipe after running a full open exhaust - I would say there is enough external air reflux into the TE exhaust system to throw the system for a loop without the baffle. One the keys (for me) when I first started using ibeat to mark 20% / 40% / 70% throttle on the twist grip assembly with a white paint pen. This gave me the refererence points on the center vales of co1/2/3. To put a little more fuel at 30% throttle - move co1 and co2 together at 1/2 value your would a single adjustment. The wideband sensor is nice - but you already know the engine wants what it wants and that varies with the load/fuel distillation curve/ignition curve/intake temp/ and rpm. I tend towards lean low throttle settings and rich large throttle settings and let the accelerator pump emulation cover the hole in the transition. Fuel injection keeps the droplet size pretty consistent regardless of the intake tract air velocity - so it's easier to achieve this than with a carb. Have lots of fun tweaking and keep good notes. The real test is plugging back in the previous valves after the latest "breakthrough" and realizing your nuts! MAT
Mat thanks for the heads up on my Typo on the 100.2 instead of 102 I went back and changed the numbers on previous post to correct the typo the info needs to be right to be of any use to others I think it is interesting that you have found that you can blend the CO's I will work with this Thankx for your work it allowed me to have a starting point when there was not any other info out there That i could find. Right now the bike is performing great the only thing i might change is to richen up the fuel at cruse other than that everything great Idles at 1950 to 2010 just like you said.I will do more testing today and might mess with the blending of the Co's.
