Living with a 2010 Husky TE 510!

3200 Mile Update !!!



The Good:

- Just checked the valves and they are still in spec after 3k miles of hard use.
- The SafariTank rocks. It is well worth the money and is 300% better made and higher quality than the IMS POS.
- The bike is running strong.....now that I have eliminated the PC-V + Autotune and gone to the basic Husky Power-Up mode. My Power (seat of the pants) and MPG have improved since I eliminated the PC-V and most important the hot starting issue has been completely solved.
- Still love how easy it is to work on/service the bike

The Bad:

- I could never get the PC-V + Autotune to work properly. It would do fine for a bit then start going crazy and have to be reset. (If anyone wants a good deal on a used PC-V + Autotune, shoot me a PM)
- The bike still seems to be running hot. I installed an LED light that lets me know when the fan on and it seems that even in cooler temps 60F-70F the fan is on quite a bit. I posted here inquiring what the operating temps of the TE510 should be and at what temps the fan should come on and off, but it seems no one knows. The next step is to install a TTO Temperature meter to keep an eye on temperatures and see if the engine is running hot or if the fan relay is set kind of low. If that does not work I'm looking at a set of double row 40mm radiators that claims to increase cooling capacity by 40%.
- The stock rear sprocket (aluminum) and chain did not last long at all. They have been replaced with a steel sprocket (T-46) and a DID VM X-ring chain.
- The vibes are still pretty bad. After along day of riding I feel a lot of forearm pump. have installed a set of Vibranators in the handle bars and have noticed a bit of difference, but the verdict is still out on whether they are worth the price.
- Hate the airbox, it is too open on the bottom and tends to suck in water during deep H2O crossings and get the filter wet.
- The stock Yuaza battery sucks. Whenever I start the bike it seems like it spins over kind of slow. It is definitely lacking a bit of pep. I have a Shorai on order and hope this will improve the starting.

Here is a new one from today: So I look into the tank to see how much fuel is left and I see that the red wire that connects to the low feul gauge has become disconnected. What a pain in the ass! I guess I will just leave it as is since it's not worth removing the fuel pump to fix it.

Did you notice any changes in the operating temp after installing the Safari tank?

Not sure?!
It always seemed to run a bit hot and i have not had a temp gauge untill now.

Im running the shorai and it seems to spin my up faster... plus having the battery weigh about a pound and a half is nice... as far as the airbox i just put tiny rubber plugs in the holes. prob solved...

My airbox has a 1cm x 10 cm open slit on the bottom.

So what is the max acceptable engine operating temperature for this bike?

On this weekends ride the engine sat between 190 & 210 most of the time, but on a steep, loose rocky hill climb I saw a max of 249 on the temperature meter.

Presume your temps are in F, not C? (The rest of the world outside the US use C ) That means it sat between 87C and 99C which sounds about right to me. Pure water at sea level boils at 100C, so with a good additive you are still comfortably in a safe temp zone before boiling.

249F is about 120C which is too high though I'm hoping your fan was on and you didn't boil over too badly. If i were you I would totally flush the current coolant out and put in a fresh mixture which has the highest recommended concentration of coolant. I saw as much as a 10C (50F) drop in my max temp on another bike after doing this, and it's by far the cheapest solution.

If that doesn't drop temps enough, you may want to consider installing a second fan on the other radiator and wiring it in parallel with the stock fan. The bike's electrics system should be able to handle the extra load from the fan without blowing the fuse (or something else) and the extra air flow at slow speeds - like when doing a snotty hill climb) should make a large difference.

If those 2 suggestions don't drop your max temp to about 110C (230F) then you might want to consider larger radiators - although in saying that every bike is going to boil over from time to time when you make the motor work hard for extended periods with limited airflow. So if it only boils over every now and then I wouldn't stress too much.

PS. may also just be worth checking all your radiator hoses to make sure they aren't obstructing coolant flow at all - look for kinks in the tube or the tube being pressed on by something. It is amaizing how even a small decrease in coolant flow can make a significant temperature difference. You may also want to check that the water pump impeller is in good condition as it is a plastic piece on some bikes and the fins can break off making the pump less efficient.

Yup Fahrenheit it is.

Thanks for the info. This gives me a good reference point on the engine temperatures.

Unfortunately the cooling system had just been flushed and refilled w/ distilled water and Water Wetter (sulfectant)and the fan was installed and running. I even have the Husky high flo water impeller installed.

I would like to in stall a 2nd fan , but there is not much room on the left side for a Pull fan because of the radiator plumbing. Might be able to install a Push fan on the front of the left radiator.

I wonder if the fact that I was riding at 10,000ft (3048 meters)contributed to the overheating --> lower water boiling point ( 195.48 °F or 90.82 °C @ 10K feet) and bike trying g to lean out the AFR?

Yeah, are you sure you added enough Water Wetter? I would be looking to make it more concentrated if I were you.

Altitude is DEFINITELY going to have an effect on cooling efficiency as the thinner air means less particles for the heat energy to be transfered too in the air, and it means the fan will not be pulling as much air through to do the cooling either. And of course the boiling point is lower as you explained, so it would make boiling more likely.

Of course, the up-side of that is the coolant will boil and make you stop well before the engine exceeds its safe operation parameters ...assuming you actually stop to let it cool down when it does boil

Water transfers the most heat. The Wetter only raises the boiling temp.

when refering to the temperature in which water boils,you have to also remember that the boiling point changes in a closed system with the addition of the radiator cap. The cap raises the boiling point, how much depends on the psi rating of the cap. This is just my opinion based on my automotive experience and may not be necessarily correct.

Dan,
I have a new to me 2010 TE510 with 300 miles, power up kit done at Hall's when new by P/O.

Shake down ride yesterday did not go well. I have been riding around town with no problems. Hit the trails yesterday and it began. Started up and I got about 50' when it died. It was a bitch to get started (e-start). I dumped it on the grass track and again, it was a bitch to get started. But once it was going no problem. Ran some trails for about 10 miles when I shut her off to wait for the rest of the group. Wouldn't start, actually the fuel pump wouldn't prime. Replace the fuse (wasn't blown, just recommended to try another fuse) and started right up. Rode about another 10-15 miles when I went down on some snotty trail. Would not start, no fuel pump so I start pushing when I decide to give it one more try and viola she starts right up. WTF???

Got home, pulled all the connection, greased em, pulled the fuel pump-no loose wires. Checked my grounds-nothing suspect. However, the "rectifier"? (bolted to right side of frame above relay) has some white goo dripping from it (like white lithium grease). Also, the backside of the bolt for the rectifier sticks out the left side of the frame and ate through the wiring harness but did not appear to pierce any of the wire insulation inside.

Your post on the plug wire to the coil caught my interest, what did you wind up replacing? plug wire, coil or both?

Any other suggestions are welcome.

Thanks
Mike

Husky screws you since it's all one thing (plug wire coil). You cannot just order one. i tried just replacing the wire, but that did not work, had to order the whole shebang. luckily it's not too expensive.

Thanks...I'll add that to my list of parts

No Husky didn't screw anybody- I assume the 2010 has the same coil as the 2009-a standard/normal set up...You can buy a spark plug cap and wire and replace separately. The wire screws into the coil just like it does the cap. It visably looks permanent if you don't know it- but it simply screws in and screws out- most find this out when they accidentally yank it out. Then they are told to cut off about 1/4" of the wire and screw it back in.

Check out your old one if you still have it Dan- you now have a back up.

Here's some options for spark plugs and caps. Spark Plugs, Caps, and coil connectins.

Not when you go to the parts fiche to order. They don't let you have the individual components, you have to order the whole thing.

i actually true getting just the cap and wire.

I think I expierenced this yesterday at the gas station. Bike wouldnt start, had to cycle the key like 10+ times, pulled my seat and put my ear on the tank, finally heard the fuel pump prime, then she started and off i went. Do these bikes have something where if the engine is a certain temp it wont turn on the fuel pump?

hi all ,any one fitted a GPR damper yet on 510 smr

have you had any clutch issues?