Power Commander V is now available for 2008/9 Husqvarna bikes

When using Auto tune you have 1 base map and then you have the Auto tune trim table. The trim table is kind of like having another map.

Let's say fuel mileage is of concern to you. First thing is to set up your targer AFR table for best performance and ride the bike around for a while letting the Auto tune build a map. Once you are happy with this map ACCEPT TRIMS and now your base map will be for best performance. Now go into the target AFR table and adjust the values for better fuel mileage (usually 13.7-14.0). Now when you are driving around and you want better fuel mileage flip the switch and let Auto tune do its thing. If you want power back flip the switch back to the base map.

This make sense?

That's exactly what I thought Auto-tune would do.

I suspect it will be more popular for mileage, but that's just a guess.

I'm curious how good people's FI bikes idle. Mine idles by the computer at 1400-1500.

It will read 1400, 1450 and 1500 once truly warmed up, that's it. I suspect the real range is a bit smaller.

For diagnostic purposes I probably just should of made mine (the one above) without music but I was trying to cover my cursing.

Suffice to say it sounds just like the ole classic flameout.

Going to the dealer tomorrow to hook her up. Tomorrow is another day.

I have my idle set at 1850- the rpm reading jumps around "1800-1850-1800-1900-1850...." but I think that has more to do with the rpm gauge on the stock digital speedo than anything with the tune of the bike.

When the bike was brand new the idle twitched around a lot more, maybe over a 2000 rpm range.....and it would pop and die occasionally coming off a stop. Now it's as I described and no pops unless I've not quite warmed it up.

Now that sounds cool and functional. When the Autotune builds a map does it automatically start using that map as it builds it or do you have to hook it up and accept that map? And to accept you need it hooked to a laptop correct?

Could a novice user inadvertantly (sp) damage his bike by altering the map manually, ie miss-type a really lean setting into the map?

Lastly and this may have already been covered elsewere, can you alter the FB1,FB2 and FB3 as well as TPS with the PC-V?

Each map that we have for the PCV includes a target AFR table that will get you in the ballpark. On just about every bike we have seen the optimal AFR is around 12.8-13.4 for best performance. I have set up a couple motocross guys at 12.6 on the transitional throttle which seemed to help a bit coming out of corners. The only way to know for sure if the AFR you have is best for your bike is to have a good butt dyno or get it on the proper dyno!!


As the Auto tune populates trim tables it uses those values instantly, live. Dean asked me this question also. It is possible to type is a lean value which could cause issues. The biggest issue would be the end user continuing to run the bike. If the bike was lean enough to cause engine damage it would run very badly, if you continued to run it in this condition then yes, bad things could happen.

That flameout issue is definitely interesting and I can see why it concerns you guys. Has anyone experienced this while holding the throttle completely steady? In the video clips it seems the rider is on/off throttle when this happens. I ask as if it happens at steady throttle I can't see it being a fueling issue. It does not seem to cough, spit, or anything before it happens. It is like the spark is going away. If anyone has this issue and is using a PCIII then you can easily see if it is a fueling issue. Take the buttons on the faceplate and make it full rich and then full lean. If the problem still happens more than likely you need to look elsewhere.

By the way, thanks to Dean and Dusty for making this happen and providing much needed insight! I have the PCIII on my 08 TE 450. It has all the stalling characteristics that have been discussed. My bike will also occassionally stall on "steady throttle" when running at a low'ish RPM a gear high with a small bit of load (say a small'ish sized hill). I'll try full rich and full lean using the faceplate.

David

I have a PCIII on my '08 SM510R and Dusty did a great job taking care of some minor issues for me. I've gotten used to nearly useless technical support lately and it was wonderful to work with someone extremely competent and supportive like Dusty. However, I wish I hadn't bought a PCIII because I'd much rather have a PCV so I could try out the Autotune add-on.

So by "accepting trims" it will constantly update the base map? Like a checkbox is ticked in the software? I was thinking you'd have to hook it up, accept trims and then it adjusts the maps. Your way is much cooler.

I've thought the same about just "shutting off". My bike likes fat setting on the low end, they tend to deter the stalling. My vids are from the LL ride in April, which I was running a learner map than I ran at the fall ride in Oct., where I only had one stall that was probable my fault.

I'm back on that map now. Why did I change? Because my bike started running bad right after the fall ride and I though it was just too fat. I turned out to be the fuel pump popping out of socket for the second time.

The maps I had changed to seemed liek they were doing pretty good, until I got to that spring LL ride, where the vids were made.

Sorry if I am not explaining this clearly.

If you add Auto tune to your bike and do NOT run a switch it will always be running in Auto tune mode which will constantly be learning and applying those values while you ride. This is your map while you ride. If you want to save this map, you will need to hook up to the computer, ACCEPT TRIMS, and hit SAVE. You now have a map you could send to someone else or now use as a new starting point (Base map).

Gotcha now. Hmmm, I wonder which is the best method to go with....constantly learning or saving a map?